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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Jason and others have described squeezing down the 1031q image to condense it to 16x9. I reset my dvd player to 16x9 image and tried to adjust the horizontal control in the convergence grid to narrow the beam. No joy. It won't go anywhere near that much adjustment.


Am I missing something?


thanks!


Eric
 

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I think there are some other pots under the main convergence board that are for the raster size, but don't quote me, I haven't snooped around down there (yet). Maybe someone else can help you out with those controls.


I too wanted to use a 16:9 picture, but after going through my movie collection, I decided on a weird size (4:3 with the top 16:9 removed). I realized that many of my foreign movies were not anamorphic, and because they have subtitles (often outside of the 16:9 area, I had to have a screen that went lower). An oddball size, but I didn't have much choice....I've been rambling on about things that don't intrest you, sorry :(.
 

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I have a 1041q, similar in adjustments to your 1031. I found after decreasing the vertical I had to increase the horizontal a bit to get the ratio perfect. (I assume you meant you decreased vert, not horiz.)


On a squashed 1041q, the scan lines become (almost) invisible under most conditions. With the 1031 the results should be the similar in regular video modes. Assuming you dont already use one, combine an HTPC with the squashing and your Pj will really rock. (!)


Initially I was concerned about uneven tube wear/burn from 16:9, as my unit currently seems to have none visible, but on second thought - at 300 to 500 dollars these 10xx projectors are just about disposable. :)


Down and dirty: If you have a DVD with the THX optimizer it has a reasonably good set of circles for adjusting the aspect to make sure both the projector and DVD player are set up correctly for 16:9.



Hope this helps-


Kieth
 

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There is a pot called RGB V-SIZE or something like that which is located under the main convergence board. Use that pot to squeeze the picture vertically. Then fine tune with the left and right H-SIZE pot located on the top of the main convergence board. Man, I wish those pots were on the outside of the unit so I could go from wide-screen to full screen to anamorphic without digging in every time. It would be neat if a three way switch could switch between the different aspect ratios - wire up 3 pots each set to the proper ratios. I don't think the RGB V-SIZE pot is a critical pot (a.k.a. bad things shouldn't happen if the pot level is way off). Anyone have the 1031Q service manual who can confirm that? I have a 1030Q manual and I think I found the same pot and it didn't state that it was critical. Might be a nice bell and whistle to add to the 1031Q.
 

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Eric ,

-- Mike is correct there is a pot for further adjustment of the Vertical Size under the main convergence board . This is how you will have to shrink it down for use with a STB DVD player . For an HTPC you can use Powerstrip . Be sure to set your convergence board Vertical Size pots to mid-level before adjusting the Master V-Size pot underneath .

--- Best Of Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That explains it. Thanks all!


BTW... I'm currently projecting a 100" diag 4x3 image feeding std interlaced signal to the composite video input. I've gotten the convergence fairly close after about three sessions. It really doesn't look too bad.


I can't wait to get a high res image input to it.


This is about the most fun I've had for $250 in a long time!


Eric
 

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Hey guys, i need some help. Im trying to compress to 16:9 too and having problems. I turned RV, BV, and GV as narrow as i can get. But that gives me a 83x53 picture....(Side note: in the process of finding this RGB VSize pot, I realized i was going to have to dig down in there to flip the image for ceiling mount anyway. Flipped all the connectors and everything seems to work fine)

Found the RGB Vsize pot on the DA board. (manual page 12) When I turn it absolutely nothing happens! Its the blue pot right in the middle labeled RGB VSIZE?? Do I have to have a special switch set (tilt?) The only thing i noticed is that when i turn the pot, the bottom thick gridline does this funny adjustment. The bottom and top of the grid seem to be made up of about 3 thinner lines and the bottommost line kind of shifts...its weird.

Well, does anyone have any idea whats wrong?


-paul
 

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Mike: I have a Barco Data 600 which is an analog projector similar in ability and function to the 1031q. I too wish the V-size pot was easy to get at and was even thinking about drilling a hole in my casing and adding an extension to the pot control for quck and easy adjustment. Another solution is to use an ISCAN v2 or pro version line doubler. There is a 'squeeze' setting that allows proper aspect ratio viewing of non-anamorphic material while in 16x9 mode. Now the image is obviously smaller than a full blown uncompressed 4:3 setup but still impressive...and no pot adjustments!
 

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HMMMM?


I keep hearing about all these new controls on the lower board, I need to look in there closer one day :) I know about the coils for width adjusting but never new about the main vertical size.


I basically used my DVD projecting a 16:9 ratio and turned off all the guns except the one I was adjusting. Using each guns pot on the main board I adjusted the vertical size until it fit the screen correctly. Then moved to the next color and so on. I started with GREEN since this is part of the main geometry set up then adjusted each to fit correctly. Then did a convergence set up.


Like I said, Im gonna have to have a good look at that lower board :)


I dont have the actual manual for the 1031 I have a 104X manual and it really is only the basics for 10XX operation, especially for trying to use with a 1031
 

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Jason gave me this bit of advice so i thought i would post it:

>RE: 16:9

>Paul ,

>- I think the pot only works for the RGB2 input [ are you using the >composite video BNC connection ? - if so then this is the problem ] .

>-- Jason Berg



I wasn't using a composite input but i was using the internal grid so

maybe it doesn't work on that. ill try it tonight on the pc input.


-paul
 

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Paul ,

-- I have not tested the Video BNC connection or the test grid with the RGB V-Size control pot so I am uncertain of the outcome there which is why I stated that " I think .... the pot only works for the RGB2 input [ are you using the >composite video BNC connection ? - if so then this is the problem ] " . I do all of my adjustments from the source [ for me is an HTPC on the RGB2 connection ] .

-- I am trying to recall from memory what the Service Manual stated [ which I no longer have thanks to a friendly car thief that stole many items from me a short time ago ] .

-- Best of Luck ,

--- Jason Berg
 

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I tried it out last night and Jason's assumptions are right. The Master RGB VSize pot on the DA board does not affect the picture of the grid. I did not try composite in, but i did try RGB2 and of course that worked.

-paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
two different vertical sizes depending upon input? could that be correct?


freaky.


would be amusing if you could use it to your advantage. two setups depending upon input... rgb for 16x9 movies... 4x3 to watch the cubbies on WGN.


eric





ejs
 

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I?ve got an old Sony 1041Q and I?m using it with an 120? screen, but typically set it to use only 100? on a 4:3 aspect ratio picture. Wanting a larger image on 16:9 material to fill the full 96? width of the screen, experimenting with the pots I realized I could adjust the Green ?main-v-size? and Green ?main-h-size? pots and widen the image to fill the horizontal (and increase the vertical to maintain proper ratio of the now widened picture).


To help in going back and forth I put some masking tape on the sides to be a good vertical queue to increase the vertical size when I expand the 16x9 image to fill the maximum screen width (and use bottom ones do the same when I bring the vertical back down and have to now narrow the horizontal image to get a proportioned 4:3 back).


Getting tired of opening the projector each time to adjust the pots I drilled two holes over exactly where the pots were and then experimented with some makeshift extensions and knobs to allow me to control the pots while the cover was on (couldn?t find anything pre made in radio Shack and other catalogs).


Eventually I did it using the barrel from a BIC pen as an extension (which after being cut to the proper length, just fit over the screw pot (loose when uncut, but after cutting the end got narrower from the knife and with one or two reams from the point of the knife fit just right, slipping over and gripping the edge of the pot screw). I trimmed the barrel of the pen at the surface of the closed lid and then found that the top of another type of stick pen (a Sanford SAGA) fit right into the open barrel of the BIC and formed a good knob extending from the lid. Now without screwing too hard I can adjust the pots from the outside.


Now here is my question: I read in earlier posts that when playing an anomorphic wide screen DVD I can actually ?squeeze down ? the image and get a less a visible line structure. To use this feature/benefit what do I set my Pioneer 505 DVD player?s aspect ratio to: Pan and Scan, Wide, or Letter Box?


My original setting was Pan and Scan. In that mode when my projector screen size was adjusted to 4:3 and I played a 16:9 movie, the image was correctly proportioned but smaller vertically inside the 4:3 screen. This was when I?d adjust the pots to widen and heighten the image. I note that if I set the DVD player to ?Wide? and watch a 16:9 movie, the unadjusted 4:3 projector setting results in a picture which needs to be lowered (people appear too thin). By doing this am I achieving the goal of "crunching down the lines"? Is this then the best setting for the DVD player?


Steve
 

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In theory your idea about using composite input for 4:3 and RGB for 16:9 should work. As I understand it, the RGB V-Size only affects the height of the RGB source signal, not the projectors convergance. Assuming you can achieve the whole 16:9 squash using just the RGB setting, then it would seem that your compostie input will still be 4:3. You'll probably just have to try it out. My guess would be that your convergance would be a bit off in one or the other, but probably not to bad. Just optimize for the case you care most about picture quality (probably 16:9).


For displaying on a PJ set to 16:9 you need to have the DVD player set to "wide" and you need to be playing a DVD that is anamorphic, or enhanced for widescreen televisions. Setting the DVD player to wide with a compatible disc will horizontally squash a pan and scan image to fit the whole 16:9 width on the sceen, or vertically stretch a letter box so the height fits the whole screen. Doing this on a 4:3 TV or PJ makes everyone look like Calista Flockhart as you observed. When you squash the vertical size adjustment appropriately everything returns to its proper height/width ratios. The main benefit to this is you now have the same number of lines in a smaller area, so effectively your resolution in lines/inch has gone up. The most noteable affect of this is to reduce scan lines for those of us stuck with 480i.


When you want to watch a 4:3 source (TV or non-enhanced DVD) you have to chose to either shrink the horizontal or stretch the vertical to get back to the correct ratios or everyone will look like Joe Pesci. Shrinking the horizontal will probably yield the best picture quality and keep the reduced scan lines so I use this for 4:3 DVDs. For Cable TV and video games I increase the vertical size, despite the lower picture quality. Mostly I do this because most of the static images (station logos, etc) will be outside the main 16:9 area of the tube face that I care most about for movies. If you watch a lot of 4:3 DVDs you might want to view them with max. height as well to avoid burning a small 4:3 rect. in the middle of your tubes.


Rob
 

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Why do people keep asking about this? I take it this is only an issue if not using a HTPC. I started out with the HTPC, and a wintv with dscaler.

I can do whatever aspect ratio I want and switch back and forth all day long and never adjust a thing. It's not like a bulb projector, where there's a visible 4:3 lighted border area. If I'm only using part of the tube face there's no evidence of it on the screen. As in the black level is set properly, so any black borders don't show and you just have to change resolutions or apect ratio via software and you're off...


Am I missing something, or is it just those who haven't yet gone the HTPC route that have this to deal with?


Troy
 

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Oh, and I'm not referring to the 104x guys, I know you are stuck, but the original poster has a 1031...
 
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