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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all!
I've begun the planning process for a new, small, basement build. I'm working with some fun challenges (impediments) that include low ceiling height in an 1880's house (<7' to the joists), boiler pipes that I can't cost effectively move), and the main beam/column that holds up the house itself. Luckily the use case will be primarily me and wife, occasionally the two kids for now. We aren't a big sports watching household so not expecting to host 10+ person viewing parties. Which is great, as the room dimensions are 16'L x 9'W (to the beam).

From my time on AVS, I know I wish to go with an AT screen, and I've already started the process of sound isolating the space as much as possible, to be documented here. I've knocked out the nail protrusions from the flooring above in preparation for putting the 5/8th drywall + green glue sandwiched mass layers in between the joists. I've already had the rim joists spray foamed, and a drain tile + sump system keeps the place dry.

I had the initial design idea laid out with the AT screen wall being created on one end, and seating placed on a BOSS on the other. The boiler pipes in the ceiling would puncture the AT wall, but terminate over the heads of the seating area. I like the BOSS idea as it will allow me to run the main subs at a lower volume but retain that immersion.

Credit where it is due: I contacted forum member Silva741 who has been amazing to model and design with!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Through working with Silva741, a few problems came up. First, the sewer stack pops out at a 45 degree angle. Chat with my contractor friend and we can move that 45 a bit so that it doesn't protrude out so far. The ceiling pipes really are an impediment, and with a 6' person (me) we'll be ducking when standing up from a raised back seating area.
So he proposes switching screen to a 2.35, which would allow us to move the screen up on the wall and slightly improving sight lines for anyone there. We'll optimize audio for the Main Viewing Position (aka, my spot) in the front row. I'm in on this idea, as my assumption about 2.35 was that I'd need a moving masking system, and that video games / non movie content wouldn't work well - all what I had learned from 10 years ago when I put together a bedroom theater using advice from this forum.

Then Silva741 comes back with an idea: rotate the room. After a few iterations, I believe I can grab more floor space on the other side of the beam (which has a main return/supply duct next to it) and build a tiered soffit. seating would be below that, and projector in a box.

We're still actively designing so any thoughts / comments are well appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Once we nailed down, and I got wife buy-in, on the rotation of the room the design work has been aimed at speaker placement and now room treatments. I'm set on getting in-wall speakers to sink into columns or behind a framed fabric so I've started searching to see what speakers I should look to pair with my LCR - MKII's. I'm looking to put in ATMOS, and 2 subs, but not sure how many speakers I should be putting in the ceiling (4?). it's all open so I'll take a look at the dolby specs and see how close I can get.

Latest renders are getting exciting, attached. Working on column sizing, and then wainscoting for walls next.
 

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Looks as though your heads will be in the way of the bottom of your screen based on your rendering. A higher 2.35:1 might help that but a 16x9 will be too low for that crammed space.
Wookie, can I ask how you can tell if heads will be in the way of his projection? I’m doing a build and am worried about that.
 

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Wookie, can I ask how you can tell if heads will be in the way of his projection? I’m doing a build and am worried about that.
Well you would make a line fro the bottom of the screen to the projector lens. Measure the bottom of the screen to the floor and bottom of the lens to the floor. Subtract the floor to screen from the measurements and you have a right triangle with known side lengths. You should be able to calculate where heads will hit the hypotenuse at each point along the base. If you dont want to do the math, you could test it with some string and 2 thumb tacks in an actual room.
 

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Good luck on the tight build. I've got a little more room to work with in our 1906 basement. I like the layout without the riser. I'm doing a riser in our 7'1" basement, but I just barely have enough room.
 

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Following. I'm doing my own small basement build, about 250 square feet. 13 x 13 seating area with some surrounding snack and nook areas. 120" wide 16x9 screen (can't get back far enough to do scope floor to ceiling).
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Looks as though your heads will be in the way of the bottom of your screen based on your rendering. A higher 2.35:1 might help that but a 16x9 will be too low for that crammed space.
You are 100% right. We'll update the render to a 2.35:1 screen.

My projector hope is that by the time I've got the infrastructure built appropriately (sound proofing, moving water pipes, soffits & lighting, new walls built and sound proofed) there will be a reasonably priced 4k, UST, with good enough response for gaming and deep blacks so that I can place it up front either hanging from ceiling or on a short stage in front.
 

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Looks as though your heads will be in the way of the bottom of your screen based on your rendering. A higher 2.35:1 might help that but a 16x9 will be too low for that crammed space.
That isn't an issue. Even with a 16x9 screen. :)
I'll attach an image.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
We're getting there! Quick update regarding columns, and some more lighting. The challenge on the back wall is that the back, lower soffit is encapsulating a duct, so I can't stick cans in like I can all around the other sides. I've started a search for puck lights that could make sense, as it's just accent lighting for a room that I'll be in primarily in the dark.

In regards to actual building, I've put in a few hours getting the layers of 5/8s drywall up into the joists. Happy 4th all!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’m a bit behind you in my build but you may want to look at these 4” puck lights. I ordered them for my main lighting because they offer 12 colors so I won’t have to do led ropes and the price was right.

Thanks for this! - if I continue the double 5/8" drywall around the soffit I should be able to do something like this. I'd paint the rims like BIG has shown in other threads. When you get them powered on let me know how they do, please.

I just got on the Hue train for other areas of the house and I'm sold from an ease of use perspective. From an install size one here they are no go for this back wall. Also I have barely started on the build, likely will take until 2021.
 

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That wide design looks nice........



From doing several iterations in my room, here is my advice........the small details like smurf sized trim etc, seem really huge right now, 6 months after you watch the first movie you will realize when the lights are off and the sound is going, they are meaningless.



After playing in a small room and squeezing 10 pounds in a 5 pound sack,....that sideways design is pretty nice !



On a side note, is that a epoxy floor and how do you like it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That wide design looks nice........






On a side note, is that a epoxy floor and how do you like it ?
Thanks for the input. I concur that at the moment we're spending time on non-essentials but I like to get everything squared away so that I can focus on the order of operations for the implementation. Plus, getting those details into the renders now significantly increases the success of gaining the wife's acceptance, hence throw pillows.

Yes, great eye, that is indeed an epoxy floor. I installed myself, and love it. One of my favorite patterns will, unfortunately, be covered up by carpeting for the theater space but I'll get over it. I watched many, if not all, of the videos available from Epoxy Plus and bought all of the product and equipment from them.
 

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Those renders are amazing, what software is that?
What was the final size of the room with the extra space behind the posts? I think our rooms are similar sized and I considered rotating 90 degrees but was concerned about audio
 

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Those renders are amazing, what software is that?

What was the final size of the room with the extra space behind the posts? I think our rooms are similar sized and I considered rotating 90 degrees but was concerned about audio
The guy who did those renders has a thread here displaying some of his work.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/1532088-want-3d-render-you-future-home-theater.html

The fleur-de-lis on black really looks great btw

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Those renders are amazing, what software is that?
What was the final size of the room with the extra space behind the posts? I think our rooms are similar sized and I considered rotating 90 degrees but was concerned about audio
Silva741 gets all credit. He's using Sketchup, with a few plugins for the lighting throws. I highly recommend working with him - my goal was to be able to better visualize and stop struggling with all the decisions and he's helping tremendously on those fronts.

The rotation to go wide was a suggestion of his based on audio, actually! It allows for more space behind the seats, which gives you the distance you need for the rears. My main fun is that support post between the two couches, so any projector has to be able to horizontally offset unless I pick an ultra short throw projector and put it upfront. That's my hope, but I figure I have plenty of time before I purchase that component as I have a whole framing / room build process ahead of me.

Dimensions are found in the pic below. Width is 85".

Latest update: I chose a carpet. The leather loveseat is an American Leather one I already own from 10+ years ago and still going strong, and it happens to work here. I'm cribbing heavily from rbouch's theater as inspiration for the design elements.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Baffle wall question

Hello!
While I've settled on the idea of an AT screen, I'm 'baffled' by how to value if a baffle wall vs. a wall w/ lineacoustic behind the speakers is worth building. How would one decide?
 
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