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Connecting 2 amps (not Biamping) to a speaker

3189 Views 33 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Keizer
Would it be possible to connect two different amps to a speaker? My usage is 80% TV/movies, and I use a solid state amp for that. However I’d like to get a tube integrated amp for critical 2 channel music listening, and I’m wondering how I can integrate that with my current HT setup. I’m not too keen on using the tube amp for HT use due to tube life and dealing with warm up time etc every time I want to just watch some TV

My speakers only have one set of binding posts. Only one of the sources would be active at any time, however would there be any danger if I forget to switch off one of the amps while the other is playing


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"Would it be possible to connect two different amps to a speaker?
Yes
BUT it would conflict with
critical 2 channel music listening
With dedicated master/slave relais it would be possible.
It will be a costly setup if you want it high-end

The most simple en cheap way is to create 2 sets. Buy a TV/surround grade speaker and put them next to the audio grade speakers.
TV it's just noise so it will cost you next to nothing
Would it be possible to connect two different amps to a speaker? My usage is 80% TV/movies, and I use a solid state amp for that. However I’d like to get a tube integrated amp for critical 2 channel music listening, and I’m wondering how I can integrate that with my current HT setup. I’m not too keen on using the tube amp for HT use due to tube life and dealing with warm up time etc every time I want to just watch some TV

My speakers only have one set of binding posts. Only one of the sources would be active at any time, however would there be any danger if I forget to switch off one of the amps while the other is playing


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I think if you never accidentally turn both on at same time you're fine. But if you do, then electricity from one amp out goes to the other amp input and it probably is going to be bad. If you're ok with a manual switch, you can get a cheap double pole double throw (DPDT) toggle switch. This one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B6R0HOO) handles about 800 watts. You'd hook the + and - out from each amp to the end legs then the run from middle legs to your speaker. I guess you'd need one for each speaker.

I think if it were me, I'd try to hook this up to a remote controlled switch that runs on a relay.
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Another option that’s similar but accepts banana plugs

TC-7220 2-Way Amplifier Speaker Selector Switch Switcher Comparator Crossover Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LNOAGZQ



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However I’d like to get a tube integrated amp for critical 2 channel music listening,
If high fidelity is one's goal [see my signature], rather than supposedly "pleasing" euphonic distortion and tube hiss sound, I personally think that is a bad idea. I would suggest sticking with solid state amplification for all sources, just like the vast majority of pros and recording studios do.
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I have the exact setup that you are describing. I use the Specialty-AV SP-71 switch to handle the speakers. This is a manual switch, but that is not an issue since I have to be around the equipment rack to change the album, etc. It is also cheaper.


I found this article that addresses what you want to do.


https://makelifeclick.com/how-to-use-1-set-of-speakers-with-2-amplifiers/
The least expensive way without having to build anything is probably this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006X7T8ES/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could mount it in a single gang J-Box {~$1 at an Ace Hardware store] if you didn't want to wall mount it or have the wires visible.

I bought one just to look at at up close. [It was half the current price BTW.]
I was warned several years ago by an amplifier engineer never to hook up two amps to the same loudspeaker terminals even if only one amp was powered up at a time. He recommended a high-quality switchbox for such use.

I bought the Niles DPS-1 switchbox mentioned earlier and used it for a few years. The DPS-1 is housed in a steel box and can handle 350 watts/channel. Niles told me it utilizes a very high quality switch. It feels military grade when you press it. Pins fit nicely into the DPS-1, as will bare wire up to 14 gauge. Niles discontinued the unit several years ago but perhaps you could find a good used one.

Niles also once offered automated switchboxes, some of which may still be available. They are the ABS-1, SAS-1, and SPK-1. I use the relay-switching SAS-1 in our theater room to switch between a Yamaha AVR's front left and right power amps for routine TV shows and an Adcom power amp for Blu-ray and DVD films or music on CD.

I still have the DPS-1 but it is not for sale. I am considering using the Niles in our music room to switch occasionally between our tube and solid-state integrated amplifiers. It is fun to change amps once in a while.

Our McIntosh amp is superb (it's the best solid-state amp I have ever heard), but our Cary tube amp is even better--more detailed, smoother, zero noise like the McIntosh (with my ear about one inch from a tweeter there is no hiss at full gain). Vocals and instruments sound more like the real thing. Overall, it is more transparent than any of the many solid-state amps I have owned or auditioned. (This performance was achieved after replacing the stock Electro-Harmonix tubes with NOS RCA and Amperex tubes and with Tung-Sol KT-120s.) Note, though, like SS amps, tube units can vary widely in sound quality.
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Thanks for all the suggestions.. I’m gonna look for a DPS-1 or some of the other suggestions mentioned. I’m guessing adding a switch in between will not degrade the sound too much?
I was a Niles dealer for over 20 years and found that they made good products, including the DPS-1, albeit a tad pricey.
--

The 10 Biggest Lies in Audio- The Audio Critic magazine:

"2. The Vacuum-Tube Lie
This lie is also, in a sense, about a peripheral matter, since vacuum tubes are hardly mainstream in the age of silicon. It’s an all-pervasive lie, however, in the high-end audio market; just count the tube-equipment ads as a percentage of total ad pages in the typical high-end magazine. Unbelievable! And so is, of course, the claim that vacuum tubes are inherently superior to transistors in audio applications–don’t you believe it.

Tubes are great for high-powered RF transmitters and microwave ovens but not, at the turn of the century, for amplifiers, preamps, or (good grief!) digital components like CD and DVD players. What’s wrong with tubes? Nothing, really. There’s nothing wrong with gold teeth, either, even for upper incisors (that Mideastern grin); it’s just that modern dentistry offers more attractive options. Whatever vacuum tubes can do in a piece of audio equipment, solid-state devices can do better, at lower cost, with greater reliability. Even the world’s best-designed tube amplifier will have higher distortion than an equally well-designed transistor amplifier and will almost certainly need more servicing (tube replacements, rebiasing, etc.) during its lifetime. (Idiotic designs such as 8-watt single-ended triode amplifiers are of course exempt, by default, from such comparisons since they have no solid-state counterpart.)

As for the “tube sound,” there are two possibilities: (1) It’s a figment of the deluded audiophile’s imagination, or (2) it’s a deliberate coloration introduced by the manufacturer to appeal to corrupted tastes, in which case a solid-state design could easily mimic the sound if the designer were perverse enough to want it that way.

Yes, there exist very special situations where a sophisticated designer of hi-fi electronics might consider using a tube (e.g., the RF stage of an FM tuner), but those rare and narrowly qualified exceptions cannot redeem the common, garden-variety lies of the tube marketers, who want you to buy into an obsolete technology."
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Thanks for all the suggestions.. I’m gonna look for a DPS-1 or some of the other suggestions mentioned. I’m guessing adding a switch in between will not degrade the sound too much?
A high-quality passive switch will cause very minimal or no sonic degradation.

I hope you find a really good tube integrated amplifier. It is difficult to go back to solid-state once you hear and enjoy the realism and stunning musicality they can provide.

Happy listening!
If high fidelity is one's goal [see my signature], rather than supposedly "pleasing" euphonic distortion and tube hiss sound, I personally think that is a bad idea. I would suggest sticking with solid state amplification for all sources, just like the vast majority of pros and recording studios do.
F to all that crap in your signature lol. I'd rather enjoy something the way *I* like it not the way someone else tells me I need to have it. Cheers.

I was a Niles dealer for over 20 years and found that they made good products, including the DPS-1, albeit a tad pricey.
--

The 10 Biggest Lies in Audio- Audio Critic magazine:

"2. The Vacuum-Tube Lie
This lie is also, in a sense, about a peripheral matter, since vacuum tubes are hardly mainstream in the age of silicon. It’s an all-pervasive lie, however, in the high-end audio market; just count the tube-equipment ads as a percentage of total ad pages in the typical high-end magazine. Unbelievable! And so is, of course, the claim that vacuum tubes are inherently superior to transistors in audio applications–don’t you believe it.

Tubes are great for high-powered RF transmitters and microwave ovens but not, at the turn of the century, for amplifiers, preamps, or (good grief!) digital components like CD and DVD players. What’s wrong with tubes? Nothing, really. There’s nothing wrong with gold teeth, either, even for upper incisors (that Mideastern grin); it’s just that modern dentistry offers more attractive options. Whatever vacuum tubes can do in a piece of audio equipment, solid-state devices can do better, at lower cost, with greater reliability. Even the world’s best-designed tube amplifier will have higher distortion than an equally well-designed transistor amplifier and will almost certainly need more servicing (tube replacements, rebiasing, etc.) during its lifetime. (Idiotic designs such as 8-watt single-ended triode amplifiers are of course exempt, by default, from such comparisons since they have no solid-state counterpart.)

As for the “tube sound,” there are two possibilities: (1) It’s a figment of the deluded audiophile’s imagination, or (2) it’s a deliberate coloration introduced by the manufacturer to appeal to corrupted tastes, in which case a solid-state design could easily mimic the sound if the designer were perverse enough to want it that way.

Yes, there exist very special situations where a sophisticated designer of hi-fi electronics might consider using a tube (e.g., the RF stage of an FM tuner), but those rare and narrowly qualified exceptions cannot redeem the common, garden-variety lies of the tube marketers, who want you to buy into an obsolete technology."
Come on dude give it a rest. This isn't a thread asking for opinions on whether or not people agree he should use a tube amp or not. If you dont like tube amps, dont buy one.
Come on dude give it a rest. This isn't a thread asking for opinions on whether or not people agree he should use a tube amp or not. If you dont like tube amps, dont buy one.
I have a right to state my views, as do you, and will continue to do so. He stated in the first post he is considering buying a tube amp and if in my opinion that might be a bad idea, I have a right to provide links to audio experts on the topic.
Well... at least he got some suggestions/recommendations about a "switch". :)
2
I not only sold speaker level switchers I also collect ones that interest me.

L-R: Niles, Russound, OSD, Monoprice, Adcom GFS-4

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If high fidelity is one's goal [see my signature], rather than supposedly "pleasing" euphonic distortion and tube hiss sound, I personally think that is a bad idea. I would suggest sticking with solid state amplification for all sources, just like the vast majority of pros and recording studios do.
Recording studios do not function like home listening areas.
Luckily for me there are many people in the industry who feel similarly to the way I do, and some of them design $18K processors, part of a $126,700 system shown at CEDIA 2014 which impressed @imagic. The designer commented a few months ago:

"A great Audio system should be as transparent as possible and add the least amount of character as possible. It should have no "opinion" about the sound. And then it should be able to integrate in normal living environments while maintaining these virtues. That's really all there is to it!"

- Peter Lyngdorf comment

I never said everyone needs to take this stance. YMMV.
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