AVS Forum banner

Construction suggestions for intergrating equipmentrack in a bafflewall

1602 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  poleepkwa
4
Hello!

I am looking for input on how to redo my front wall in my smallish theatre.
The room is a “media” room with an open floorplan.

I would like to split up the “office” area and the “theater” area and paint the roof dark on the theater area.
I would like to ingrate my equipment in the front wall, with a "fake" wall and hide the front speakers/subs/ equipment rack all in the front wall.
I have noticed that BIGmouthinDC has had quite a few of these, but I did not find one where the equipment is integrated in the front wall.
The reason I want to put the equipment here is, because all 10 of my power sockets are in the front wall.

The construction of the house is as follows:
Wooden house Walls construction are drywall and wooden studs with 250 mm outers shell and 50 mm mineral wool isolation.
I do have acousticall drywall up and that has helped quite a bit allready with the acoustics.
Floor as 50mm floating concrete floor. The room is on the secondstory and open plan above the kitchen
The two "areas" upstairs are divided by 2 halfwall that provide the rails for the stairs.

I have decide to build bafflewall/fakewall on the frontwall. This can hide all speakers/subs/ equipment inside the frontwall.
I am planning to use a 100/106" 16:9 screen.
The listening are has a depth of 3 meters, so space is rather limited.

Biggest issues has been pretty challenging for me to get my room pressurised, even with 18”inch subs.
I plan to darken the white roof with some dark paint, ect as that effects my contrast quite a bit.

My first question:
I have planned to cover up the acoustical frontwall with the some normal drywall to double it up and add some weight to the frontwall. Is this worth it to do or am I wasting time?

3140379
3140380
3140381
3140382
See less See more
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
A fake wall can be acoustically transparent if you just use fabric covered frames. Use hinged panels to hide the gear. Not sure if you will ever get that area "pressurized" with the open back.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
why only 100 inch screen? You have the room to go larger. I would wall off the office area with a solid core door and insulated wall. You will get a darker theater, more room presurrization, and more quiet to the outside
Thanks for the tip.
So no point to try to stiffen that wall behind the speakers?
You suggest to build it acoustically transparent, instead of a solid bafflewall?
Most likely I will add 2 more subs in the rear to see if that could help. Closing up that back wall will probably not help if it is of a light construction...
why only 100 inch screen? You have the room to go larger. I would wall off the office area with a solid core door and insulated wall. You will get a darker theater, more room presurrization, and more quiet to the outside
What size would you suggest? My sitting distance to screen is 2.4 meter so roughly 7 feet away.
I was thinking about closing it "off" too, but the stairway remains open, so that have to be closed up as well.
I would go 120 inches to 140. I love a large screen though. it all depends on your needs and budget and how extensive you want to get in construction. Sealing the room off will be the best though
would suggest you go with an 75~85” tv instead with your viewing distance of 2.4m. Tv will give you better contrast n brightness. 100” would be too big such that part of the screen is outside your peripheral vision and you’ll need to keep turning your head especially in action scenes. But if that’s what you like then go for it lol
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Another thought, you may want to install some sub drivers in the wall behind your seating firing into the back of the couch. Something low profile.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I currently have a 92" screen that was installed in front of the speakers. I do not find it too large. I did testing and was still comfortable with a 106" screen. Bigger than that and it got tiresome. Grimani recommends seating distance X .9 and I think that feels right to me. I am so used to having the speakers behind the screen, that I am willing to compromise on image qaulity.

I will most likely add another pair of subs towards the rear of the room, to see if it helps or as Jeff suggested, use that divider wall behind the sofa.
That is a good idea.

I will start with filling up all the holes in the wall.
Anyone has some ideas how to mount my speakers on that wall. I have used those adjustable racks and it worked fine, but others might have found a beter way.
Personally I would move your L&R speakers outside the screen - they should be at (or near) 30deg from MLP (or 110" apart if you sit 2.4m from screen)
Also that screen frame looks a lot bigger than 100"- do you mean 100" wide (not diagonal) screen ?
Personally I would move your L&R speakers outside the screen - they should be at (or near) 30deg from MLP (or 110" apart if you sit 2.4m from screen)
Also that screen frame looks a lot bigger than 100"- do you mean 100" wide (not diagonal) screen ?
Good point and something I have pondered. I have also tested it
After watching the AVPRO videos with Grimani and his recommendation was to have the speakers at 22 degree. This still falls with Dolby recommendation.Also try to keep those away from the sidewalls.
Screens size is 237x140cm ,so that would be 100" diagonal.
I have tested with my L&R inside the screen (probably about 25deg) and outside the screen (30deg) and outside was far better for me.
2
Quick update:
I removed most of the current hometheater, so I could start patching up the walls and build the rear seperator
The goal of this repaint is to darken the home theater area and separate it from the "office area". Got some pricequotes for the systemrack that will go underneath the screen.
Leaning towards plywood, but MDF is quite a bit cheaper. Will probably paint all of this with some black structure paint. So not sure if it really matters.

One issue has been to see how I could separate these to wisely, but I think I have a good solution for this while still maintaining the open space.
I was thinking the sidewalls could a darkgrey(like graphite)
This could also have a slight warmer toned than the rest of the room. Lets see, once I get the "divider" up.


3145138
3145139
See less See more
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top