AVS Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
RE: Convergence


Hitachi 65XWX20B Build date Oct, 2002 w DP27 Chassis


Should also apply to any XWX or TWX model.




Do NOT try this without the service manual. To get to the convergence mode, start the set up and ONLY THEN push the blue button on the convergence board. Board is on the left side behind the service panel which is in the front behind the speaker grill. DO NOT HOLD DOWN THE BLUE BUTTON AND THEN POWER UP. YOU WILL PERMANENTLY LOOSE ALL CONVERGENCE SETTING AND HAVE A PROBLEM REQUIRING THE HITACHI MYLAR OVERLAY AND HOURS OF VERY FINICKY ADJUSTMENTS!!! AGAIN: ONLY PUSH THE BLUE BUTTON TO ENTER OR LEAVE CONVERGENCE AFTER THE SET IS ALREADY ON!!!!!!


ALSO: DO NOT TOUCH THE GREEN. CONVERGE ONLY THE RED AND BLUE!!!!!!! The green is a master and if you mess with it your job will be ten times as hard.


First try::::::::::::::::::::::

Went to the 13 by 9 mode and got every thing lined up after great effort. A couple of points:


*it is tough to find out which mode you are in. Easiest way to make sure

is that the color to be converged is only the pure color of the flashing

horizontal and vertical grids


*if pushing the '2' or '4' of '5' or '6' buttons skips lines, you are in the 7x5 grid mode.


*Hitachi is to be complemented on the flashing candy cane alignment grid

concept. Makes it very easy to see when convergence is right on.


At any rate converged the hell out of the thing in the 13x9 mode. Used the 'VID 3' IN VCR MODE to calculate when done with each color. Wrote to ROM and got the confirming green dots. Used 'MUTE' to return to crosshatch. Got back grid with blue and red off about 1/2-inch on right and left sides. What the &&&& is this!!!!!!


Getting late, so went to 7x9 mode which actually works quite well, reconverged, and wrote to ROM. A little off here and there about 1/8-inch. Did the needed PIP MODE and PIP CH to write successfully to Magic Focus. Used MUTE to get back to crosshatch and pushed blue button to leave convergence.


Second try:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Back next day to try gain. Started with 7x9 mode and then 13x9 mode. Successful write to ROM but perfect convergence off after ROM write about 1/16-inch here and there. Why is this??


Third try:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Went to 13x9, reconverged, and wrote again with nearly perfect convergence after ROM write. Again initialized Magic Focus.


BTW, Hitachi says to start in center. Found most of convergence errors were horizontal displacements to left or right of green verticals and also some interaction to next vertical line. Was far easier to go left to right across each line from top to bottom. Takes about two tries through the full sets of lines to get a good overall convergence per red and blue color.


Anyone know why it takes multiple writes to get a good convergence after ROM write return with each one better than the one before. It's almost like it is adjusting old data rather than a clean write with entirely new data????


Have I missed some critical step here????????



Still not satisfied with the white balance and black resolution. But that's for another day. Found a good explanation of brightness versus contrast, which helped quite a bit at: http://www.ece.purdue.edu/~bouman/in...nd_Picture.pdf First time I've read a good explanation of what these setting actually do. Wound up turning the brightness down and then the contrast up. Helps quite a bit. Still the span between black and white seems compressed.


Would twiddle some more after I figure out what.


Ideas?????????????????



:confused:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Manual Convergence for the Hitachi

1) Receive an NTSC signal.

2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus

3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the ‘stop’ screen

4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to DCAM mode and the service grid (64 point grid)

5) When you first get in here… I believe red is the selected color by default (it is flashing).

6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:

a) “STATUS†- Green

b) “0†- Red

c) “ANT†– Blue

7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I adjusted red across the whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you may want to go back and adjust some red again… etc. until the convergence looks good.

(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).

(b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.

** There have been other posts in here to tape together the color filters found in the Avia DVD to help converge lines more easily. I have used this method, and it works well for adjusting to a greater detail. Basically, you put the red filter next to the green and adjust your red to the green line both horizontally, and then vertically. Then you do the same with the blue next to the green. Some people recommended you should be at normal viewing distance. I did mine from just a few feet back from the set. Maybe my eyes aren’t as good… maybe I just felt like it worked better this way. There are some other posts also recommending using binoculars. I think it’s great that people suggest things to make the process easier… but my girlfriend would think I was insane if she saw me with binoculars on the couch adjusting the convergence. I don’t know… whatever works best I guess.

8) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the location of any green point. This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems.

9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an ‘S’ curve on the line. You’ll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust the line to be converged, the middle of the line between the points will not straighten out (it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends going to the (7x5) mode which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good, you only fine tune it in (13x9) mode (64 point). If you have serious problems, the grids work as:

3x3 – ‘coarse’

7x5 – ‘medium’

13x9 – ‘fine’

10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)

1. (3x3) Press “STATUS†5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)

2. (7x5) Press “0†5 times

3. (13x9) Press “ANT†5 times

11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. You get the point… depending on where you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9

12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional ‘grids’ on the edges of the screen, press the PIP CH button on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode (DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.

13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is displayed to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE button again to write displayed data to ROM.

14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.

15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.

WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC FOCUS!

16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.

17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts and several windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.

18) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.

19) Turn power OFF.

21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic Focus button just to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few steps properly)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the comprehensive list.


Three areas of questions:


What is the calculate step supposed to do at the end of each color? (SM says to 'Press the remote VID 3 button to Calculate points in between the adjustment points' at the end of EACH color in both the 7x5 and 13x9 modes.)

I've tried this with and without in VCR Mode (SM says in VCR Mode but training manual for D2 chassis says to just push VID 3 and makes no mention of VCR Mode for the XWX remote) and I don't really see anything going on?

Does this take some kind of load off of the ROM write step or does it just tell you what you are going to get in advance after a ROM write?




Why when you do a perfect convergence write to ROM in the 13x9 mode and press MUTE afterword's do you not get a perfect convergence at those points on the grid?




Is the proper procedure to use the 7x5 first and then not touch those 7x5 points in the 13x9 mode???

Could it be that the VID 3 calculate step after the 7x5 is to tell you what you really would have needed to adjust in the other 13x9 points to get a perfect convergence write?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Any ideas why after doing this procedure, and hitting magic focus, i see some green to the left of the letters focus, the green in to the left of the letter a bit. Hope this makes sense, did i hose it up ?


Thanks for the time, effort, and great tips.


Do i need to find the blue button, or is the power button OK ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
thanks for the info on the button


Any idea about the magic focus looking funny. Say where the c is in focus, when red, there is a green vertical line to the left of the c about 1/8 inch on my 51


Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
when the red is on, during the focus, i can seen green shifted left about 1/8 inch very dim. The green gun is not on at this time. Is this something to worry about ?? convergence is great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Mfusick no camera to take a pic with, but in 4x3 with grey bars, i have a verticle line on each side of the image about the same 1/8" wide, not horribly noticable but there.


could overscan cause this magic focus problem, i heard it can cause problems, but not sure what they look like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
well, i tweaked over-scan just a bit, and my perfect lines are no more. I will call service Monday and set up a call. I am also having another problem with the set. I am not expected to know how to be where i was, so i thing a good approach might be to give nothing incriminating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Yesterday I converged my set, following Mfusick's directions exactly, and I had no problems. Everything worked exactly as advertised. Now, I have a couple of questions.


1. Once I've saved my configuration to ROM and performed the Magic Focus steps, am I to understand that Magic Focus will finally do the job it was meant to do? That is, if I run Magic Focus in normal, user mode, I'll get to the convergence points that I set in the service menu.


2. When I went to check the convergence under manual mode in the user convergence area, it was almost perfect, though I did see a few spots where red and blue leaked out a little. Should I expect this, or should the service convergence have handled this? Or should one expect to still have to do the user convergence because it has more points (at least I think it does)?


BTW, blue was difficult to align in the service menu because it is so hard to see. The way I handled it was to first move the blue far enough off center so that the dots showed clearly. Then I merged the line back into the center. By giving myself such a clear view of the blue at each point, it was easy to see when it vanished into the white.


Thanks.

Sam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
FWIW, this Mfusick's instructions work on the UWX as well, with a few exceptions...


Changing between green, blue and red is done by hitting the "Select" button.


Moving around the grid while in any other color but Green is done with the numeric keypad on the R/C - 2 up, 4 left, 6 right and 5 down.


To save your settings, hit "Exit", then you will get a menu with 4 choices - I think they were "Exit", "Return", "Done" and "Cancel".


Other than that, I haven't figured out how to change between the gid sizes.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by Duplicator
FWIW, this Mfusick's instructions work on the UWX as well, with a few exceptions...


Changing between green, blue and red is done by hitting the "Select" button.


Moving around the grid while in any other color but Green is done with the numeric keypad on the R/C - 2 up, 4 left, 6 right and 5 down.


To save your settings, hit "Exit", then you will get a menu with 4 choices - I think they were "Exit", "Return", "Done" and "Cancel".


Other than that, I haven't figured out how to change between the gid sizes.
I have converged this years and last years UWX.


They are exactly the same.


I don't know what the differenced you talk about are from.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Hi, everyone,


One thing no one has mentioned. You have to do this procedure TWICE - once for NTSC and once for 1080i. To get into 1080i convergence, you have to be receiving a 1080i signal on a component input, then go to Step 2 in Mfusick's procedure. You'll be surprised how far off some of the points you just set in NTSC are!


Brad
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by Bradtothebone
Hi, everyone,


One thing no one has mentioned. You have to do this procedure TWICE - once for NTSC and once for 1080i. To get into 1080i convergence, you have to be receiving a 1080i signal on a component input, then go to Step 2 in Mfusick's procedure. You'll be surprised how far off some of the points you just set in NTSC are!


Brad
Yes,


This is true.


Good point.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top