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Discussion Starter #61
Started glueing up my spare Fusion 8 while I wait on the 88-Special to ship! The 88 will fill the space between the subs. Going to stick with the black enamel paint and black flocking for the front and will spray some black rid on the cones so it all matches as I'm pretty sure the 88's cubes will be green.



This change will free up my current center to make a pair of side surrounds (all my surrounds are in ceiling so it stinks).

While I'm building the 88 I'll also be building the "woofer module" cabs for the pair of magnum12's I have that will be added onto my mains to make them into three ways. They'll be 1.7cuft each tuned to 45hz. I'll reference Jeff Bagby's Kairo's and Continuum 3-Ways paper to do it. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2rvu0f18x4ppon9/The Kairos and Continuum Three-Way.pdf?dl=0

More to come on that. It's all coming together!
 

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Discussion Starter #63
The plan has been squashed. WAF denied. So I’m going to just pull out the surrounds and use stands when it’s movie time. Then I’ll “forget” them out and eventually they will blend into the “landscape” of the basement.

Making some progress on the 88-Special and the woofer modules for my L and R Fusion-8’s.
 

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Discussion Starter #64


Even though I could fit full sheets between the wheel wells, I had Home Depot rip my two mdf sheets into (8) 24”ish x 49” panels so I could haul them easier and avoid having to cut them up with my circular saw.



Little progress



Starting woofer modules. Magnum-12 woofer in 1.5cuft times to 45hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
For the woofer modules... I did some digging. It turns out the original Maximus-12 design (not the lxe) used the magnum-12 woofer, the eminence beta 8 and the dna-205 cd with the seos10 waveguide. (I feel like my cousin Vinnie explaining this). The fusion 8 uses the same woofer and CD! So I’ve reached out to Erich and am looking at buying the crossover’s and waveguides to upgrade my fusion 8’s to full blown Maximus-12’s. If that don’t work out. The plan is to use Jeff Bagby’s “woofer module” passive crossover. This crossover lets you take a two way, seal it and cross it around 200hz to a woofer of nearly the same sensitivity.

Here is an excerpt from his paper.



For about $70 bucks in parts from Meniscus (they have the zister resistors needed) I can plug the ports on my fusion 8’s and cross them to the magnum-12 woofer modules.
 

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I just stumbled across your build thread. Your completed room is absolutely beautiful! I love how you incorporated your theater into a functional living room and kept it so clean looking. Awesome job on both your design and build!

This is my type of theater as opposed to a dedicated space. Much more family friendly.
 
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Discussion Starter #69
Thanks for following along and for the kind words. It was a tough call on going dedicated or not and in the end I’m glad I went this route. I think the only thing I’m missing after this is odd like the couch to shake more. So I’m thinking to do the boss direct bolt to the couch to create the super low shakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Little more done on the 88-special. I know no one will see the bracing. Since this is my first non-flatpack speaker I want to step it up a little notch.



Next I glue the baffle on and then the cab is ready for sanding and can keep my fusion8 cab company while I do the bracing for the two magnum 12 boxes. My goal is to get all four boxes built and to the sanding stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I went nuts and kept going today. Got in the zone and cut the braces for the woofer modules. The mounting depth of the magnum 12 is 5.5”. So I added an inch or so to the cut out depth of each brace and determined I had to do these tapers that tilted from the baffle in order to allow enough room for the driver and have a strong brace. Then I drilled all these holes again and cleaned everything up with my 3/8” roundover router bit.

I need to do a little sanding before I glue them in as they are a little too tight.



I put the ports in the box just to see what they’ll look like. These thinks are pretty big for 3” “modeling” says the port tapering out on each end would raise the tune but their proximity to the back wall and boundaries will lower the tune. Hopefully I’ll hit the target 45hz.



So I need to sand the 88 special top before I glue on the baffle and then it’ll ready for sanding/filling.

After that I need to get the braces installed in the mag12 boxes. Then cut the driver holes, recess driver holes, port holes and any other holes I can’t think of.

 

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Discussion Starter #72
I broke 4 clamps during this portion of the project. I would not recommend anyone buy the hand grip style clamps from harbor freight. They are garbage. I switched to the threaded type bar clamp style from harbor freight and these things are night and day better.





I used my new clamps to get the baffle on the 88-special.



I also started getting the braces into the woofer modules.



You see those extra cuts in the braces? That’s me NOT owning a jig saw. Those are table saw cuts where I went a little too far. They shouldn’t effect anything, just look crappy. I need to get a jig saw!
 

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Why am I upgrading? Because I want better surrounds. Huh? Yeap, the Surrounds are the weakness. They are all in ceiling and from monoprice. Upgrading the center channel frees up a Fusion8 to go with the spare Fusion8 kit I have. I'll be moving these to surround duty.
Well this is not good news. I am just starting the movie room build ( two walls framed ) and have matching monoprice in wall and in ceiling speakers. The plan was to use them in a 7.2.4 Atoms setup. Are they really that bad they need an upgrade?? I can't say it surprises me as all 8 ( 4 in wall and 4 in ceiling ) shipped for less than $200. I am driving the in wall surrounds from the Denon receiver and the Atmos in ceiling with a Rotel amplifier.

Here is what I have for in wall:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10837&cs_id=1083702&p_id=4100&seq=1&format=2

and in ceiling:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10837&cs_id=1083702&p_id=4104&seq=1&format=2

Would you recommend I abandon this now and move to something better? I have 4 Paradigm Titans that could easily handle surround duties.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Well this is not good news. I am just starting the movie room build ( two walls framed ) and have matching monoprice in wall and in ceiling speakers. The plan was to use them in a 7.2.4 Atoms setup. Are they really that bad they need an upgrade?? I can't say it surprises me as all 8 ( 4 in wall and 4 in ceiling ) shipped for less than $200. I am driving the in wall surrounds from the Denon receiver and the Atmos in ceiling with a Rotel amplifier.



Here is what I have for in wall:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10837&cs_id=1083702&p_id=4100&seq=1&format=2



and in ceiling:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10837&cs_id=1083702&p_id=4104&seq=1&format=2



Would you recommend I abandon this now and move to something better? I have 4 Paradigm Titans that could easily handle surround duties.


The monoprice hang in there just fine spl wise and sound plenty good. If I needed a second system, I’d buy them again. My issue is that my rear surrounds were also in ceiling. So my systems ability to place objects in 3D is severely compromised. After all this I’ve learned what is most important is placement. I would take decent speakers placed right and aimed right over great speakers placed/aimed poorly. So it depends on your goals of the monoprice are right for you. My goals are constantly evolving so for me there really is no end game
 

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I broke 4 clamps during this portion of the project. I would not recommend anyone buy the hand grip style clamps from harbor freight.
You shouldn't be applying that much pressure with the clamps. You don't want to squeeze out all the glue, just keep the pieces together while it sets.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #76
You shouldn't be applying that much pressure with the clamps. You don't want to squeeze out all the glue, just keep the pieces together while it sets.

Michael


I don’t go crazy or anything (despite have a Von Erich “Iron Claw” grip capabilities), the problem is the plastic grip just snaps under normal use. It’s like the plastic became brittle since I bought them a few years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I’m not at the point where I need to glue the baffles on the mag12 woofer module. I usually just dive in and cut stuff and that often leads to a mistake. So I’ve been planning my steps this time because I want to recess the driver and the ports. I ordered a proper router bit for this task instead of trying to use the bit that came with my milescraft hole cutting jig. @jshadzi recommended this one


It’s an up cutting spiral bit which means it’s shaped like a drill bit instead of flat like a knife and evacuates the wood chips up as it goes. The downside to the kind of bit is that it can leave some tear out at the top of the piece you’re cutting but since I’ll be rounding over my driver holes and recessing the lip of my ports it should be perfect. With mdf I’m guessing won’t see much tear out. We’ll see.

The steps I need to take are:

1. glue the baffles together
2. glue the baffles to the cabs
3. trim the baffles flush to the cabs
4. Lay out my holes on the baffles using the bottom (my preference) as the measuring point.
5. Drill holes for centering pin of router jig
6. Recess all port lips 1/8”
7. Through cut port holes
8. Recess driver 3/4”
9. Through cut driver holes
10. Glue plywood blocks behind driver mounting hole locations

Thanks for following along.
 

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My Harbor Freight clamp experience is identical to yours. All have snapped. No big deal as they were cheap, but it is like the plastic has a rather short lifespan.
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Don’t ever let anyone tell you that clamping two pieces of mdf together for a double baffle is easy. Well, it is easy if you leave yourself plenty of room for the boards to not have to line up perfectly. If I would hand left myself a 1/4” extra on all sides it would be easy to just trim off with the router once the baffle is glued to the box. Instead I had to use blocks to line up the baffles while glue was still squeezing out of them, then screw into them where the driver hole cut out will (hopefully) be. Then do all the clamping to get good pressure everywhere. What a B!!

 

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Discussion Starter #80
The good news is I guessed correctly on where to put the screws. Before I do the next baffle I’m going to law out the holes then screw the baffles together without the glue to give me predrilled alignment holes so I don’t have to freak out again trying to line them up. So far or lols like I’m ok with the first baffle although the decision to cut the baffles to the right size with out any extra overhang for trimming continues to haunt me. As I glue it into the box, I have to make sure it stays right on target. So I used clamps in two directions. In the horizontal plane I made sure the clamp overlapped the seams where the baffle meets the box to keep the panel aligned and once it was aligned I used clamps vertically to apply pressure downwards. Hopefully it dries perfectly in place.

 
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