[Stribor40]

How would I covert hole that I made for rough in wiring?

 

[Lils Roro]

How big is that hole? A standard wall plate is 2.75 x 4.5 inches. You can get them with binding posts for the speaker wire, or alternatively just a small hole in the middle of the plate for the wire to poke through.

 

[Stribor40]

How big is that hole? A standard wall plate is 2.75 x 4.5 inches. You can get them with binding posts for the speaker wire, or alternatively just a small hole in the middle of the plate for the wire to poke through.

This picture is just example but I want to do same thing so opening will be standard size..I would like plate to not have any holes......

 

[Lils Roro]

This picture is just example but I want to do same thing so opening will be standard size..I would like plate to not have any holes......

I'd recommend something like this for the wall plate to screw into, rather than screwing the wall plate directly into dry wall:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916

The specs on the bracket don't say the max size the hole can be. You can either guessitmate or get the brackets before cutting (I don't have one handy to measure).

 

[jautor]

How would I covert hole that I made for rough in wiring?

Go to a big box home improvement store, and in the electrical aisle, get yourself an "old work low-voltage box" (might be called a 'ring' or 'bracket' too).

Place the bracket on the wall and you can trace the opening from the back side to get the cutout size (cut just outside the marks). Push the bracket into the hole, and tighten down the screws so that the 'wings' rotate and grasp the drywall from behind.

This gives you the screw points to hold whatever type of cover plate you want to use. And is the correct way to make a low-voltage cable outlet.

Jeff

 

[jayn_j]

Your post isn't clear whether you want future access to the hole. If you do, and the hole is small enough, you can use Jeff's trick.

If you want it to simply go away, do the following.

1. Find a construction site nearby and get a small scrap of plasterboard and two small sticks.
2. Go to the home improvement store and buy the following. Spackling compound. Spray texture. A box of flathead screws. An abrasive sponge or dedicated open file. Paint and paintbrush.
3. place the two strips of wood behind the existing wall and secure them to the wallboard using the flathead screws.
4. Cut the scrap plasterboard to fit in the hole, leaving a small gap on each side.
5. Screw the new plasterboard to the strips in 4 places, two on each strip.
6. Fill in the gaps with the spackling compound and let dry
7. add a second coat to fill in the shrinkage and to cover the entire new section and an inch or two of the existing wallboard. Let dry.
8. Sand this down until level and smooth
9. spray with the texturing compound. Let dry.
10. Paint to match existing wall.

You will never be able to see where you cut into it.

 

[jautor]

Your post isn't clear whether you want future access to the hole.

LOL! Good point - doesn't really say whether the wire terminates here, or if that hole just needs to be patched!

I answered a similar question about the recessed outlets placed for wall-mount TVs - "what do you do if you don't end up putting a TV there?". My answer:

 

[gec5741]

I'd recommend something like this for the wall plate to screw into, rather than screwing the wall plate directly into dry wall:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916

The specs on the bracket don't say the max size the hole can be. You can either guessitmate or get the brackets before cutting (I don't have one handy to measure).

This and what Jautor linked are what I use for making any post drywall plates. they have little holes in them that you can use as a template. Just poke a small pen through the four corner holes and then cut connecting the dots and you have the right size hole. then that bracket clamps to the drywall tight and your standard plat will screw into them. they work great!

 

[Stribor40]

LOL! Good point - doesn't really say whether the wire terminates here, or if that hole just needs to be patched!

I answered a similar question about the recessed outlets placed for wall-mount TVs - "what do you do if you don't end up putting a TV there?". My answer:

Yes i want future access to this wire. But for now i just want to cover it. In the future i want to open it and potentially terminate cat 6 cable and have plug for it

 

[jautor]

Yes i want future access to this wire. But for now i just want to cover it. In the future i want to open it and potentially terminate cat 6 cable and have plug for it

Low volt old work box, and a $.19 blank cover plate...

 

[gec5741]

Yep id just use the kind linked earlier and then use a blank cover plate.

 

[jayn_j]

I agree. Just wasn't clear on what you actually wanted.

 

[Stribor40]

Thanks

 

[Neurorad]

Use the pictured old work low voltage ring, instead of a box. Cheaper, easier to work with, and less kinking of cables.

 

[iliveinyourhead]

Use the pictured old work low voltage ring, instead of a box. Cheaper, easier to work with, and less kinking of cables.

agreed i used them more than a few times they work great

 

[Neurorad]

Go to a big box home improvement store, and in the electrical aisle, get yourself an "old work low-voltage box" (might be called a 'ring' or 'bracket' too).

Place the bracket on the wall and you can trace the opening from the back side to get the cutout size (cut just outside the marks). Push the bracket into the hole, and tighten down the screws so that the 'wings' rotate and grasp the drywall from behind.

This gives you the screw points to hold whatever type of cover plate you want to use. And is the correct way to make a low-voltage cable outlet.

Jeff

These LV old work brackets (I get mine from Home Depot) have tiny holes in the corners, as pictured. Use a pencil and draw a dot in each hole. Connect the dots with a drywall jab saw.

 

[jautor]

These LV old work brackets (I get mine from Home Depot) have tiny holes in the corners, as pictured. Use a pencil and draw a dot in each hole. Connect the dots with a drywall jab saw.

Cool! Completely missed that feature and just always used the 'old school' tracing method. That's the hard part about these pieces sold without packaging - no place to provide the instructions on the nifty added features!

 

[NickTheGreat]

Cool! Completely missed that feature and just always used the 'old school' tracing method. That's the hard part about these pieces sold without packaging - no place to provide the instructions on the nifty added features!

I had never noticed that either! i've bought some of mine elsewhere, but I know I've used and traced the HD ones . . .

 

[that science]

LOL! Good point - doesn't really say whether the wire terminates here, or if that hole just needs to be patched!

I answered a similar question about the recessed outlets placed for wall-mount TVs - "what do you do if you don't end up putting a TV there?". My answer:

this

 

[gec5741]

I had never noticed that either! i've bought some of mine elsewhere, but I know I've used and traced the HD ones . . .

Heheheh yea those holes re handy in making it fool proof in cutting out your hole to the right size! I just take a small point pen and make my marks then use a small hand held drywall saw and cut out my hole and I'm done. Easy as 1,2,3.