AVS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, now that the Strafi are pretty much wrapped up it's time for the next project.

A friend locally asked me to build the cabinets for a Crites speaker kit and I was happy to oblige. I wasn't familiar with Crites but the kit uses what appears to be a custom Eminence 12" pro woofer, the FaitalPro LTH102 horn (same one as my Strafi) and a Selenium 1" CD in a ported enclosure. More info at:

http://www.critesspeakers.com/crites-cs-1-speaker-project.html

The plans call for a simple unbraced 3.5 ft plywood enclosure, but I wanted to do something a little nicer. I'm building the enclosure using maple veneer cabinet grade plywood, and in the corners I'm using solid maple to cover the end grain.

The kit includes some black plastic ports but I'll be doing my own ports in the style I've been using quite often, cardboard tubes recessed into the back of the baffle with a round over on the front port opening. I will also tune them to give the best low end response.

This will be a quick project compared to my last one, and the kit did include premade XOs by Crites.

Cut materials including some of the solid maple pieces



Gluing on the strips







Assembling the sides and tops





A brace to tie the sides together



The back going on, referenced and reinforced with dowels





Front and rear are oversized and will be trimmed to flush



Bracing mostly finalized



Drivers laid out



And the baffle around the woofer will be double thickness, this also references to the sides and further ties the sides to the baffle



Next step is to router out drivers and ports, attach the baffle then flush all the sides.

Thanks,
Javad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
I like the idea of using the hardwood to hide the end grain. Your pictures make it look so effortless with the way you clamped them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I like the idea of using the hardwood to hide the end grain. Your pictures make it look so effortless with the way you clamped them.


Thanks for the comments everyone!

Yea you know the strips aren't too much work, main issue is the thickness of the maple is about 1/16" thicker than the plywood, so the keep is lining up the maple strips with the outward side of the panel.

Thanks!
Javad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Got a bunch more don't today this morning.

Pulled out my Strafi templates to flush mount the Faitalpro horn



The insert locates the cutout, and once you take the insert out that's the Horn OD



Cutout



And the flush mount





A perfect flush mount





Important to test fit before you remove the template in case there are any missed spots



And done



3" cutouts for the port ID





12" flush mount and cutout









As you can see not much shrouding from behind but quick to make a relief cut





Receiver groove for port rear mount



Ports glued in, they are on the short side and can be lengthened



And front baffle glued on





Thanks!
Javad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
It's 1/4" HDF, works great, bigger base for more stability and it can accommodate bits up to 3.25" in diameter, like 1.25" round over bits, just made it with the circle jig.


That's what I want to do, but all I have is .5" :/ but I need a new base for my bigger bits.

I'll check out wood shop for free scrap then as .5 seems way too thick.

Thanks!

Oh you said HDF, think mdf or ply would be fine?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
That's what I want to do...

.5" is way too thick, MDF will work but it's a little soft, other issue is you want a smooth surface so the base slides easily, but some of that adhesive backed drawer liner vinyl could help with that. Also try Masonite, has a hard glossy surface on one side. Plywood is probably to "splintery" to work well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
.5" is way too thick, MDF will work but it's a little soft, other issue is you want a smooth surface so the base slides easily, but some of that adhesive backed drawer liner vinyl could help with that. Also try Masonite, has a hard glossy surface on one side. Plywood is probably to "splintery" to work well.


Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,672 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Little update, started with flush mounting all edges, this produces the best result compared to getting things lined up with just cuts, by the way try the spiral cutting bits if you haven't, I use a 1/2" that cuts so much smoother than the standard straight cut flush trim bit, get the upcut variety which pulls the router down against the piece.





And with a 1/2" roundover on all vertical edges






1/2" roundover on ports





And initial pass with 120 grit, will do some filling and then some minor final sanding







Thanks!
Javad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
483 Posts
"spiral cutting bits" Check!
I think I have just the standard cut bit. I'll make sure to get one before I start routing my project.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top