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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering when calibrating my speakers what is a good crossover starting point?


My mains are rated down to 40hz


Center is down to 50hz


and surrounds down to 60 hz


I will set everything to small so my SVS can take care of the low end. But I have the option for multiple crossover settings. Where should I start? All at the regular 80?


Thanks of any help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Right now I have them all at 80...but since I can adjust the crossovers from 40 up to 150 I wondered what a good starting point would be for the ratings on my speakers.
 

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How big are the woofers on each speaker, and how many of them are there?

Even though they have response down low, they may not be able to play with sufficiently low distortion down there to make it worthwhile if they do not combine that response with enough volume displacement to do it at loud levels as well.


IMO, here's a good set of guidelines based on the volume displacement of typical drivers, (edit) assuming that all speakers are traditional boxed (sealed, vented, transmission line) models:


1 5.25" woofer: 150Hz

2 5.25" woofers or one 7" driver: 100-120Hz

2 7" drivers, 1 8" driver, or 1 7" ultra-long excursion driver (e.g. Adire Extremis): 80Hz

Anything bigger: measure your room to figure out where the problems are, and set your crossover accordingly.


While you can definitely go lower than the above guidelines, you're sure to significantly increase your system's distortion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The mains have 2 6.5" woofers and rated down to 40Hz


The center has 2 6.5" woofers as well...but rated to 50Hz


Surrounds have 2 5.25" woofers (dipoles) rated to 60Hz
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenS
Just wondering when calibrating my speakers what is a good crossover starting point?


My mains are rated down to 40hz


Center is down to 50hz


and surrounds down to 60 hz


I will set everything to small so my SVS can take care of the low end. But I have the option for multiple crossover settings. Where should I start? All at the regular 80?


Thanks of any help!
IMHO..

A good starting point would be to check with the loudspeaker manufacturer..

Then go from there..


Too often..

Speaker and room problems are compensated for by the bass manager, which is the not the purpose of it..


Tweaking the bass manager for x-over point, level and/or slope may seem to minimize an audible issue but the real solution is to use an EQ system that has enough intelligence and resolution, and/or the adjustment of certain room factors... including loudspeaker position and listener seat..
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Code
IMHO..

A good starting point would be to check with the loudspeaker manufacturer..

Then go from there..


Too often..

Speaker and room problems are compensated for by the bass manager, which is the not the purpose of it..


Tweaking the bass manager for x-over point, level and/or slope may seem to minimize an audible issue but the real solution is to use an EQ system that has enough intelligence and resolution, and/or the adjustment of certain room factors... including loudspeaker position and listener seat..
That is, of course, nonsense. First, getting to somebody at most loudspeaker manufacturers (especially the big ones) who actually knows anything is well nigh impossible. Second, EQ is the band-aid, not doing things right in the first place. Though in truth in most circumstances BOTH are required because doing it truly right is either physically or aesthetically impossible. Still, anyone who cares about music knows that EQ is an evil, albeit a necessary one, that should be used in moderation and only when other options that actually deal with the problem rather than electronically attempting to hide it have been exhausted.


Adjusting for room issues in the upper bass is IMO the only reason to bother with a separate subwoofer at all, as opposed to simply buying mains with appropriate volume displacement and F3 to match one's sonic and musical tastes. (Disclaimer: I care only about stereo/multichannel music, and most of the movies I can stand to watch look/sound just as good in mono as in 7.1. People who like to watch thinks fake blow up have a second rationale for wanting a subwoofer.)


For example, in my room with L/R speakers placed for optimum spectral balance in from the midbass up (about 3.5' from any the back walls, well in from the sides, and "overtoed" or toed-in about 50deg to take advantage of the rare constant directivity through the crossover region provided by my speakers) I get into serious room issues at 60Hz. However, if I steeply filter the bass out of the mains (4th order slope) and add four subwoofers spaced across the front wall, that's largely taken care of without EQ. True, there are some other issues down lower, and very few rooms including mine would not benefit greatly from something like a Behringer Feedback Destroyer competently employed, but in my case a HUGE problem that would require more than 20dB of EQ at 50Hz at the listening position (and 8dB of EQ in the opposite direction at 50Hz if you move six feet to the left - what kind of electronic EQ could provide for both positions!) is simply gone because of competent system design and placement, with no external processing required.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenS
The mains have 2 6.5" woofers and rated down to 40Hz


The center has 2 6.5" woofers as well...but rated to 50Hz


Surrounds have 2 5.25" woofers (dipoles) rated to 60Hz
In that case, you're likely to get a large increase in distortion in both the bass AND the mids (due to the fact that the midwoofers are moving so much) at normal listening levels if you cross over much below 80Hz for L/C/R and 100Hz for the surrounds. Maybe go a step above each of those if you like it really loud.
 
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