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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on doing a coolant change on my 9 year old Phillips RPTV. I have the service manual and several links from topics on this board. The service manual says to remove the coupler from the CRT and then the lens from the coupler for cleaning. The coupler is held on by the four screws with the springs. All the posts that I've read only remove the lens and leave the coupler attached to the CRT. What's the proper way of doing it? Is the CRT/coupler gasket more delicate than the coupler/lens gasket? Is it possible to get replacement gaskets for these just in case? I have also read in a couple of posts where people put RTV sealant on the old gasket before putting it back together. Should this be done or not? The service manual does not mention using RTV sealant. Thanks.
 

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I've done LOTS of coolant changes and have always separated the entire coolant chamber from the crt. I have never damaged the gasket. The disadvantage is the chamber never goes back on in the exact position it was on before, which means more post alignment effort. Seems like opening at the lens assembly would make it difficult/impossible to clean the chamber walls properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I plan on leaving the red CRT alone for a reference for alignment but what exactly do you mean by "more" post alignment? The service manual talks about mechanical centering using the centering taps on the yoke but I was hoping to avoid that and just use the digital convergence setups. Will I have to recenter the blue and green mechanically before I do the digital convergence?
 

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I just did the coolant change last week in mine.Hammer and others are alot more experienced at it than me,but I didn't have any trouble.I'll try to give a quick run-down on how I went about it.If you haven't already,read the thread on this.I did my blue,then green.Red was fine,as it usually is.I disconnected the various wiring from the tube to the tv.When removing the red anode(?) wire,I found the best way to remove it was to use a small screwdriver like the kind used on glasses and carefully pry the black insert up while pulling the wire up.After the anode,ground wires,and wiring harnesses are taken loose gently pull down on the board attached at the bottom of the tube.Remove the four screws holding the tube in place.Carefully lift it out of the hole,making sure not to bump it around.Lay it on a flat surface and support the other end of the tube.Be careful and don't move the 2 rings close to the bottom or you'll cause yourself convergence issues.Remove the drain plug and use something to siphon off some of the fluid into a container.I ended up using some tubing to drain the second tube.It was easier that way.When you get most of the fluid out,use an E6 Torx socket to remove the four screws holding the lens cover on.Clean the large o-ring with distilled water and set aside.Clean the inside face of the lens as well.I just used distilled water to clean the fluid chamber with.I didn't bother with alcohol.Clean the chamber thoroughly and drain the water and gunk out.Wipe the inside clean with a lint free cloth.Reinstall the o-ring and replace lens cover.Put Torx screws back in and tighten snugly,not too tight.Set tube so that drain hole is facing up and begin filling with fresh fluid.Watch for leaks while doing this.When it's full,reinstall drain plug and you're ready for reinstallation into the tv.I placed paper towels inside and let mine sit overnight.I didn't get any leaks,so I pulled the towels out.I hooked the tv and gear up and adjusted the convergence through the main menu.Now my tv looks like it should instead of having a jaundiced looking picture.I didn't go through the extra steps that Hammer was referring to.It's really a judgment call.You could do it that way and be 100% sure there's no more contaminants left.My way,there's no need for rtv sealant to be used.However you decide to do it,it's really not that hard.Just be patient and take note of where everything goes.Have fun.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjanecka /forum/post/16978621


Thanks. I plan on leaving the red CRT alone for a reference for alignment but what exactly do you mean by "more" post alignment? The service manual talks about mechanical centering using the centering taps on the yoke but I was hoping to avoid that and just use the digital convergence setups. Will I have to recenter the blue and green mechanically before I do the digital convergence?

Yes, Always leave one crt untouched for reference. Yes, always use centering rings to line up as much as possible, and you will have to do service menu convergence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Originally Posted by hammerdwn /forum/post/16980475


Yes, Always leave one crt untouched for reference. Yes, always use centering rings to line up as much as possible, and you will have to do service menu convergence.

The service menu convergence looks pretty staightforward in the service manual. The service manual does not go into any detail about how to physically adjust the centering rings. Do you just start moving them around until you get the picture in the right place? Do they only spin or do they also move up and down? What about safety when working inside a "live" set? Should I use some sort of stick to move them instead of bare hands or gloves or what?
 

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Centering rings only spin, just play with them moves picture up/down/left/right. Yes, you will need to be careful not to touch anything else with bare hands while the Tv is on if you don't like getting zapped. You don't have to worry about discharging the crt before removal, just make sure the Tv has been unplugged for a few minutes before you start unplugging connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I pulled the back panel off and started to remove the blue gun first. I could not get the hv wire out of the splitter. I did not want to pull any harder. The wire has a black clip around that slides down into the white post. The black clip has two wings that pop out into small horizontal slots in the white post. I could not figure out how to push both wings in at the same time so I could pull the wire/clip out. Any idea if a tool exists that does this? I looked all over the internet for such and never found an actual tool.
 

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Take a flat blade screwdriver and place it on top of the clip, butt it up against the HV wire. Push straight down on the clip with the screwdriver, like you are trying to hold down the flyback. Now just pull straight up on the HV wire, it should slide right out and the clip stays seated in the flyback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll give it another shot this evening if time permits. Here's a shot of the EHT I found on Ebay. You can clearly see the black connectors that the wire fits into. Does pushing down on the black connector release the wire inside or do I still need to pull pretty hard?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjanecka /forum/post/17013902


...Does pushing down on the black connector release the wire inside or do I still need to pull pretty hard?

Na, doesn't take very much pulling force while you are pushing down on the clip.
 
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