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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Loved my 8" Electrohome Marquee CRT, but a recent move brought on the decision to part ways with it.


After months of reading, studying, viewing and learning, I have landed a Marantz S2. I won't list the reasons why...you know them already.


My setup question is this:

Based on screen size, there is a minimum and maximum distance the S2 can be installed from the screen. Does it matter where within the range the S2 is mounted (front/back) as long as the vertical placement is correct? Any image benefit to back vs. forward?


I want to be sure and hit a joist when I install the ceiling mount, so my options are fairly limited for placement on an already drywalled ceiling.


Thanks!

-Paul
 

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From what I read from Stereophile guide to home theater, The image of most projectors have its best focus when the zoom is around the middle of its range.


James
 

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Paul,


Welcome to the Club! I agree, use the middle of the range. It also gives you some fine adjustment range.


Also, don't forget, use RGB instead of Component for your HD viewing. And check out a D1 for amazing DVD playback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ernie,

Thanks for the welcome!

Quote:
Also, don't forget, use RGB instead of Component for your HD viewing.
Really?

Can I do this if my pre/pro (Anthem AVM-20) is switching component?

How? I just bought a 30 foot component cable :(


Plan for now is just DVD viewing, so I assume component should be OK for now until I can move to DVI, yes?
 

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Paul,

great choice. Tell us about what screen you are using, size, and whether you can fully control room lighting. Are you ceiling mounting it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Shumi,

THANKS for your comments and for your interest!


Here's more about my setup:


Room:

My room is 12.5' x 20'

I have 100% light control.

The room is in a finished basement and has no windows or other light spill.

Room is all drywall, with an 8',8" ceiling.

I have built a riser for row 2 seating that is carpet matched to the rest of the room.

The room is painted a deep butterscotch color, which looks awesome with my black furniture and speakers. I have also painted the front wall black to eliminate light spill and create a more dramatic presentaiton.


Mount:

The projector will be mounted from the ceiling. I'm actually relieved to llearn that I should mount at the midpoint of the distance range - that's exactly where there's a joist to lag bolt the mount into. I'm just not comfortable attaching my new investment to the ceiling with drywall anchors.


Screen:

I have ordered a Stewart Firehawk screen, 16:9, 92" wide/106" diag.

The screen will have the Velux beveled trim.


Seating:

Row 1 will be about 13.5' back from the screen

Row 2 will be about 17' back (sadly, a little closer to the back wall than I'd like, but no other option).


Any further tips/suggestions based on the info. above is very much welcomed!


Thanks all!

-Paul
 

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", use the middle of the range. "


I keep seeing this, but can't think why it would be the case for optics (analog electronics is another story).


I would go for the longest throw possible because the aperture used is smaller and gives higher CR and the reduced angle at which the outermost rays hit the screen reduces hotspotting/increases brightness uniformity (more of an advantage for high gain screens).
 

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I agree with Noah's advice. This is not really a critical issue but if you have the option, choose the longer distance as long as it suits your room environment. I won't repeat what Noah has already said but will offer the downside to this choice that I can see. Longer distance requires a more critical attention to the focus adjustment. But once you get it right you can forget it until you bump it out of whack. :(


The Marrantz was my forst choice for image quality and I'm sure you will be pleased with the choice. I still have my 7" CRT and actually fired it up today, and watched a whole movie this afternoon on it. I quickly got used to the softer image and dimmer screen than my TV3 after spending a good 20 minutes reconvergence and grayscale calibration. Anyway, welcome to the bulb world where you'll be counting the bulb burn hours rather than converging the image. :)
 

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Paul;


Congrats to your choice and welcome to the club!


As Ernie already pointed out, you should give DVI a try when you get a chance. I use my S2 with an HTPC via DVI - awesome PQ!!

______

Axel
 

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Yeap, I have also read it somewhere, Widescreen Magazine or HT magazine, do not remember where but from a reputable source..long throw to minimize hot spotting especially with the Firehawk...make sure not to be at the very edge.

Your set up sound awesome. The front black wall is the way to go (you used flat paint right?). Do not underestimate the effect of even the slightest light reflection off the ceiling. My ex Infocus 7200 was horrible when it came to that. I also have a dedicated HT room with the Firehawk. I even went to the trouble of using black electric tape to cover the "on" LED on the subs and amps!! I get the 7200 and this thing spills so much light on the ceiling (reflecting it on the screen) that it looks as if the main lights are still on! :mad:

You must share pictures and Paul, do not rush it! I am on the fence on whether to go for the S12, wait for the S13 or even go for the Sim2HT300Xtra.
 

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Paul-


Your room sounds awesome. your dimensions are close to what I am planning for mine and I love the descriptions of your colors (gotta see that butterscotch paint). I wonder if there is a similar color in fabrics?


I would love a used S2 as a new one in over my budget. Meanwhile I am considering the Sharp Z9000, IF 7200 (Shumi -more on the light spill please), Benq PE 8700 and the fathom Optima H76.
 

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Paul,


The component inputs go through the all Faroujda circuits. The RGB and DVI do not, thus a cleaner signal path for HD sources which do not benefit from that circuitry.


I run my Dish 6000 RGB out for HD sources and S-video out for Standard-def sources. (The reason I don't use component for Standard Def, is you have go thru a bunch of flippin' menus in the 6000 to change for either RGB or Component - bad design Dish!) Then the Bravo D1 using DVI. I only use the component for the X-Box.


I agree, the longer end of the zoom range (which is pretty short anyway) is best, but leave some room for adjustment is what I was intending.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by wantin'atheater
.....

I would love a used S2 as a new one in over my budget. ....
How about a refurb. unit? A lot cheaper than a new one but still with warranty, just in case....

_____

Axel
 

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Hey Paul,



1. make sure you run a DVI cable to this pj before you close everything up!!!!!!!!!!!! then buy a DVI DVD player, its only 2-300 bucks and makes the s2 shine!!!!



2. i am going to recommend a shorter throw for this reason: This pj vents to the front so the fan noise is more to the front. If the pj is set behind seating you you will hear it, if in front of seating you may hear it less.


in my case i built a drywalled and sound board insulated one open side box and set the pj on the shelf in the box ( the marantz can be placed at top screen height without inverting). i did this because it was mounted right over the seating area.



congrats!


Bernie
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Paul Gere


My room is 12.5' x 20'

I have 100% light control.

The room is in a finished basement and has no windows or other light spill.

Room is all drywall, with an 8',8" ceiling.
Paul,


Quick question. You have 8'8" ceilings in your basement. How many courses of block is your basement? Thanks.


Gary
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by wantin'atheater
Paul-


IF 7200 (Shumi -more on the light spill please.
wantin'atheater,

I have been very critical of the light spill issue from the IF7200 (more than the noise). It is the main reason why I gave it up and kept on looking. I just do not understand how the engineering team at Infocus could have overlooked this one. Please understand this though: the IF7200 is a light cannon. It can and should be used on large screens in rooms which are not completely darkened. If that is your case, by all means, this is the right projector. I have a dedicated HT room, completely darkened with a 92" Firehawk. The 7200 is way too bright for this application. I thought for the money (trust me when I say it was cheap...let us say I could have posted on the other display forum
) I could have fitted a ND filter to cut down on the brightness and live with it...but I could not. The reflected light from the ceiling was way too distracting.(see picture). It does not mean it may not work for you if the conditions are right.
 

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shumi;


You could put the IF7200 in a hushbox. This would kill 2 birds with one stone: light spill gone and silent.... That's what I did with my IF LS110...

_____

Axel
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Quote:
Quick question. You have 8'8" ceilings in your basement. How many courses of block is your basement? Thanks.
GScott:


I assume this means layers of block in the walls. Sorry, but my basement is poured so there are no courses/layers of block. If you're asking something else, please let me know and I'll try and answer.

Quote:
1. make sure you run a DVI cable to this pj before you close everything up!!!!!!!!!!!! then buy a DVI DVD player, its only 2-300 bucks and makes the s2 shine!!!!
Bernie/All:

I will pre-wire before closing up. Any recommendations on what DVI cable to use for pre-wiring? I'll need a 30 foot run.


All,

If I'm to stay to the back of the throw range, any suggestions as to how to ensure a secure mount to an already finished drywall ceiling?!


Thanks again!

-Paul
 

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Cut a clean rectangular piece of sheet rock from the ceiling just narrower than the body of the projector, and from the front edge of the joist just in front of your desired bracket location, to the back edge of the joist just behind your desired bracket location.


Construct a four-sided piece using 2x4 lumber that is exactly the size of your new opening, making sure you expose the 2" (actually 1.5") edges downward. Install this 2x4 system flush with your exposed joists by driving several 3" drywall screws through the short sides of your rectangle and into the joists.


Cut a piece of 1/2 or 5/8" thick plywood (whatever matches your existing drywall thickness) to fit the original sheetrock opening. Using the 3" drywall screws, attach the plywood to the new 2x4 frame and the joists in the ceiling along all four edges. It will be very strong. I've done it lots of times.


This also leaves room for you to cut in boxes to neatly run your wire and install an electrical outlet in the plywood exactly where they will make the install look best. I would cut the boxes in after carefully measuring and do it before installing the plywood. Any drywall finisher worth his salt can give you a finished product virtually indistinguishable from the original ceiling.


The other nice thing is you have a relatively large hole to use when fishing wires from the projector back to the equipment. Believe me, you, or your installer, will love it!
 

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P.S.

I like to drill the wood out and use T-nuts. That way the projector mount can be taken down as often as necessary without fatiguing the wood or forcing you to use new areas of the surface so the bolts can get a clean bite into the plywood. Also, it distributes the force of each mounting hole over a slightly larger area, kind of like a washer does when used with a bolt.
 
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