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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finally installing my Sony 1292.

People have said that it's relatively (emphasis) easy to install (i.e. possible)

So I'm following the manual and installing it


I loosened the screws for the spacers, and turning the dial.

However when I get right near the required # it gets to tight to turn (believe me I tried force)

I turn it back, and then try again but same thing.


e.g. my screen size = 90

I'm turning the green to

-12.5 (L)

12.5 (C)


I get it to -12.5 & 10 and that's about it.


The screws are loosed to the point of falling off.

Any ideas?
 

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You have remove the transportation screws ? (marked with red circles in the photo)


And loosened the spring loaded bolts ? (marked with yellow circles on the green tube in the photo)


In my own experience, they sometimes seem to get jammed, but with the screws removed and the bolts loosened , there should be more than enough play to 'shake' them loose again.


Hope you get it sorted.


Cheers,

Erling
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks.

To make sure that I've done my calculations correctly.



How far away from the screen should the very front plastic of the projector be if the screen is 8' wide x 4.5' tall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also how high off of the ground should the screen (16x9) be if the projector is on a coffee table which is 12" high.


Is it also 12"? b/c then it's hard to see over the projector to the bottom of the screen.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by cgott42
Also how high off of the ground should the screen (16x9) be if the projector is on a coffee table which is 12" high.


Is it also 12"? b/c then it's hard to see over the projector to the bottom of the screen.
The bottom of the screen would be 25" off the floor. Don't forget to use the universal optical spacers.
 

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I am also in the process of adjusting the spacer on my 1292.

I have a 80" x 60" screen.

My projector sits on a 10" dolly off the ground. It is about 10 feet away from the screen. Is that a correct distance?


According to the PJCalc software, the distance should be 109". And the CRT rings should be adjusted to:

R G B

Ring L -8.8 10.9 8.8

Ring C 13.2 10.9 -13.2


Are those settings correct?

Thanks.


Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by techman707
The bottom of the screen would be 25" off the floor. Don't forget to use the universal optical spacers.
thanks,

but what do you mean by "universal optical spacers" Is this something that I need to buy, or what comes with the 1292?


also if my screen is 8' wide x 4.5' tall, what is the distance the front of the proj. needs to be from the screen?


thanks
 

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Loosen the 4 lens lockdown screws and set the ring spacers:


Ring L RED= -7.4 Green= -10.0 Blue= 7.4


Ring C Red= 12.8 Green= 10.0 Blue= -12.8


retighten screws after adjustment.



The standard throw is 129", but will be less after you enlarge the rasters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by techman707
Loosen the 4 lens lockdown screws and set the ring spacers:


Ring L RED= -7.4 Green= -10.0 Blue= 7.4


Ring C Red= 12.8 Green= 10.0 Blue= -12.8


retighten screws after adjustment.



The standard throw is 129", but will be less after you enlarge the rasters.
What screen size should I reference in the manual.

My screen is 8' x 4.5'


When I looked up 90" screen size it gave me:

Green - 12.5 (L), 12.5 (C) and the others were also different from what you have above. I can use what you recommend, I'm just wondering what I should be referencing in the manual as I continue my installation.


thanks
 

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My figures are the correct ones for a 96" screen. You said it was 8' wide, not 90" wide.


Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yep 8' x 4.5'.

I only said 90" as I wasn't sure if you set it up (convert to 4.x3 aspect ratio, used in the table in the manual) based on what it'd be if the height was the same and the width changed (to 72" to keep 4x4) or the other way around. I'm confused how to read the table.

Just so I know how do you do it?



Also when they refer to screen size, aren't they speaking of diag. which would be 110" on the 8' x 4.5' (16x9)
 

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Whether it's 16:9 or 4:3 is irrelevant, only the width is important for that calculation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thank you , that screw helped a ton, made it simple (as it shoud be) to set up the spacers. I've only done the first step of the installation ("repeated "H"'s on the screen alignment) and the picture looks nice even from that.


How do I set it for 16x9, I don't see anything in the manual about this.


thanks
 

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You use the RGB "horizontal & Vertical" size control to adjust the vertical height. However, if you haven't done so already, you should probably also adjust the horizontal size first to go as wide as you can on the tube face, BEFORE, you adjust the vertical height. This way you will be maximizing the use of the phosphor on the tube face. If you don't do this, you're not getting the full advantage of you 9" tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
A few more things:

(1) I've centered the Green Cross Hair on my screen. However the blue and red are not the euqi spaced from the green (as it says it should be in the manual).


(2) What tool can I use to make sure that the projector is lined up perfectly straight (perpendicular) to the screen?


(3) When I move loosen the CRT screws, and move the CRT I'm able to line it up with the green CRT Horizontal axes, but not the vertical axis (on the hash mark).


thanks, I REALLY appreciate your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also, just thought of another question:


Even though I don't have it fully set up, I've set up the hash marks with the remote (and am very impressed by the picture, even with such little setup)

anyway, now that I've done that, I notice that every few minutes the picture has a "wave" of darkness (everything is visible but noticebably darker) go across the screen.


Any ideas?
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by cgott42
Also, just thought of another question:


Even though I don't have it fully set up, I've set up the hash marks with the remote (and am very impressed by the picture, even with such little setup)

anyway, now that I've done that, I notice that every few minutes the picture has a "wave" of darkness (everything is visible but noticebably darker) go across the screen.


Any ideas?
I don't have a clue/ Is there anything connected to the input?


As for setting the "toe-in", you must make sure the internal pattern is centered BEFORE setting the toe-in. If the patterns re centered and you set the toe-in to the default factory setup position, the crosshair will look like it does in the manual.
 

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You shouldn't have anything connected to the input during setup. Toe-in is the tube assembly left and right horizontal adjustment to overlay the vertical line of the Red & Blue tubes over the Green, for a 120" diagonal picture (the factory default), you should put the screws of the Red & Blue tubes in the 120" hole. That's the way a new projector would come from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Do you have a picture showing where the screws go? The manual has me confused.


I'll disconnect the satellite from the input. Did haven't it connected ruin anything?
 
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