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Quote:
Originally Posted by realtight  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24608414


The front baffles were going to be large 45 degree angles until I found this thread on another forum:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-speakers/48848-trompie-s-curved-statement-family-building-thread.html#post453651


On the 7th post you can see the jig this guy created, I did the exact same thing. It took a lot of passes with my router but I think they ended up nice


After they were done I decided to keep the baffles Erich sent me and just cut a window into the curved front with my router, and shaved the edges until the two pieces fit perfectly.

Wow, very cool...I'm gonna have to hit up my good buddy with a cnc and see what can be done that way too
 

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Discussion Starter #23

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24609220


Very very nice. Thanks for sharing.


I've considered a curved build on a much smaller scale. Let me know if I'm on the right track to making the ribs... I'd make a template and trace it onto my sheet goods. Then I'd bandsaw them out within an 1/8" of the line. Then affix the template to the roughly cut out rib. Flush route it out on the router. Repeat for each one.


It seems you were doing something like that, but gave up and went with a CNC. Was that because it was too much work, or you weren't getting a reliable repeatable result??

The initial shape's outside edge is just half of a diameter which I cut with my router and the straight part has a 1/4" indent to lock onto the mdf board. I used my dads bandsaw for the inside braces but after the first piece was done I received a quote from my cnc guy that I couldn't pass up.


He only charged me a wholesale price for the wood and an hour of time. It was actually cheaper for me to go that route so I couldnt pass it up. While he did those I started on the front boards which took forever because my work and the outside weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #24

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24609057


Outstanding build!


With the ports on the bottom how high off the floor do they need to be so they don't affect tuning?


How much bigger is the cabinet volume compared the recommended 2cuft tempest and does it require a different crossover?


One last thing, you have crazy skills

Thanks - I think anyone on here with the right tools and patience could do the same. I dont consider myself a talented wood worker.


The internal volume is exactly the same as the kit. The ports need to have the same vertical clearance as their diameter which is 2.5". I'm going to build a 1" bottom piece that has a hole in the middle and install 1.5" spikes that PE sales.
 

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Very cool!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by realtight  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24611282


Do any of you have experience with kerfed panels? The more I think about it, sanding those bent ridges down wont leave much left for the mdf. How smooth do the sides have to be for the laminate to hide the ridges?

This is a great piece of work! The one odd thing that popped out for me was the "chunkiness" of the kerfing - when I've done curved mdf (and other woods) I typically remove a lot more material - If I'm using a 3/32" blade I'll make a cut, move the wood over by twice the width of the blade (3/16") and make the next pass, so I end up with 50% of the material being removed (making a jig to do this is easy and ensures regularity of cuts). I also find it good to experiment with the cut depth - leaving too little material will emphasize each kerf, and leaving too much behind makes the piece brittle, but once you get it dialed in you can make a completely smooth piece where the kerfs are invisible from the face side (i.e. no sanding required). Just be prepared to create a lot of saw dust!


It's definitely worth experimenting on scrap material because the laminate, if properly done, will show every irregularity in the substrate, so you need to make sure that you do due diligence and get a pretty decent surface on which to glue.


Dave
 

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When I have done curved pieces I always have used thin pieces and curve around a base.

With what you have I would take a belt sander to it.
 

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I have a general question that I would like to ask you woodworking guys as I am totally new to this...


When it comes to measuring and marking the cutting lines on various pieces of wood, do you just use a tape measure and trust your freehand marking skills by the line on the tape measure? I am having trouble marking accurate, repeated lines using a tape measure. Is there a better way to ensure that you mark the same lines multiple times?


Also, I am having trouble cutting exact sized panels, which I believe is also a product of not marking exact lines. Do you guys cut with the blade right on the line?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24612305


Do you guys cut with the blade right on the line?

It is difficult to follow a single line with precision. It is easier to achieve a high degree of accuracy by staying inside a pair of parallel lines spaced a blade-width apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24612305


I am having trouble marking accurate, repeated lines using a tape measure.


Your tape measure is for rough carpentry. Woodcraft's Marking and Measuring Tools section is a good resource. Also, drafter's tools are useful.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build/0_100#post_24612678

PassingInterest! It's awesome to see you chime in here! Your builds were my main inspiration for my curved subs and the methods used to get them built. Thanks for all of your detailed contributions!


This is where mine are at. Still deciding on veneer.....
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/sealed-subwoofer-build-projects/67838-stereo-integrity-18-d2-curved-build.html
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by realtight  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build/0_100#post_24607662


Dts, your curved sub build is what inspired me to start working on a curved build of some kind so that means a lot!

Thanks, man! It's great that we can all help eachother out! As you can see below, PassingInterest was the one that inspired me to get going on the curved builds. It all comes back around again.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build/0_100#post_24612901


Aw shux, guys.


I just checked the build thread--all 17 pages! Very nicely documented. Those are some rock-solid cabinets. And I noticed that you ordered a second pair of drivers! Too cool for words.

THANK YOU! I couldn't (and wouldn't) have done it without your ideas!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build#post_24612305


I have a general question that I would like to ask you woodworking guys as I am totally new to this...


When it comes to measuring and marking the cutting lines on various pieces of wood, do you just use a tape measure and trust your freehand marking skills by the line on the tape measure? I am having trouble marking accurate, repeated lines using a tape measure. Is there a better way to ensure that you mark the same lines multiple times?


Also, I am having trouble cutting exact sized panels, which I believe is also a product of not marking exact lines. Do you guys cut with the blade right on the line?

I think a lot of this is personal preference. I do use a tape measure, always measure twice. I draw a line with sharp pencil then if the board is a long one I measure again about half way up and then 3/4 way up. Put little marks and then use that and a square to make the cut line. I always cut on the line. If you have more than a couple of boards to cut with the same measurements I make a jig. It takes a few more minutes but at least you know that your cuts will be the same.


As far as cutting exact size panels are you using a table saw? Could your fence be moving on you? If just using a circular saw then make a jig, use extra scraps or clamped down squares to make a straight edge.
 

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I try and cut everything the same dimension without readjusting the fence. So if I need 12" wide panels, I rip the sheet at 12". Doesn't matter if it's 12.1" or 11.9" as long as they're all the same (talking about building a box here, other things require precision). Then for cross cuts, I use a stop-block so they're all the same as well. I actually don't measure all that often. And I rarely cut on a line. I set the fence and watch the fence. The only time I look at the blade is to make sure I'm not gonna run my finger through it. A solid fence is one of the most important features of a quality table saw IMO.The baffle and back I usually oversize a little and then flush trim, so even if my box is 12.1" instead of 12" that's ok.


Only problem with my way is I think you get more scraps. But repeatable cuts is more important IMO.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio  /t/1527379/curved-seos-tempest-build/30#post_24612753


PI builds are always my favorite to follow. The woodworking king? YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

That's Sir PI to all of us around here!


He did win the DIY Sound Group 'Best Build' award 2 years in a row!*













* - I just now made that decision.
 
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