AVS Forum banner

21 - 40 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
804 Posts
Hah! If only...
Would you mind to elaborate? I'm sorry, i'm not following your line of thought :)

I have 2 BMS 18N862 as subwoofers, they are amazing drivers.

But for a 3 way speaker, unless the goal is max extension, the AE TD18H+ is a better driver, moreover as the OP is in the USA.
Nevertheless, its a moot point, as the OP already has the B&C 18ds115 he want's to use.

Unless ... :)

@a77cj7, what about trying to sell the B&C drivers, you should be able to sell them for a good price ...

Then you could go with a TPL-200 + TD10M + TD18H+ !!!

IIRC, @Mike Garrett uses a TPL-150H + TD10M + TD18H+, so maybe he can provide his input :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
Would you mind to elaborate? I'm sorry, i'm not following your line of thought :)

I have 2 BMS 18N862 as subwoofers, they are amazing drivers.

But for a 3 way speaker, unless the goal is max extension, the AE TD18H+ is a better driver, moreover as the OP is in the USA.
Nevertheless, its a moot point, as the OP already has the B&C 18ds115 he want's to use.

Unless ... :)

@a77cj7, what about trying to sell the B&C drivers, you should be able to sell them for a good price ...

Then you could go with a TPL-200 + TD10M + TD18H+ !!!

IIRC, @Mike Garrett uses a TPL-150H + TD10M + TD18H+, so maybe he can provide his input :)

The 18N682 is practically unobtanium here in the US, you can order it but it’s even more expensive then. I’ve watched ebay and other online retailers for a while trying to snag a few but the prices are usually outrageous. I eventually broke down and got the NSW6021’s and bought a few FP1030’s.

I don’t think it’ll be worth it for the OP to switch at this point, with the planned cross over with the 18DS I don’t think he’d notice much difference with the 18H+.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
804 Posts
I don’t think it’ll be worth it for the OP to switch at this point, with the planned cross over with the 18DS I don’t think he’d notice much difference with the 18H+.
I agree, when we reach these type of quality, i doubt we would be able to distinguish between a proper speaker implementation using the drivers mentioned here.

It's just that when using these high end driver, why not using the best there is just from the start, so there's no "regrets" or "what if's" later ...
@a77cj7, an interesting approach is the one used by Javs, by using separate enclosures for each driver, which would allow you in the future to swap drivers if needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
@Trimlock, @neo_2009

I’m not ignoring you guys, I just prefer to answer somewhat informed. I’m trying to run models on the bass modules, but keep getting distracted/called away.

As of now...
The 18ds115’s are for sale in my mini dev’s, over in the FS section. If someone chooses to buy them that way, it would leave my options completely open. I have 40 days to return the third to PE, or I bet I can sell it for the awesome open-box price I got on it.
(The box was opened, but the driver was still banded into cardboard. Had never been powered or mounted)

I consider the 18ds115, the TD18H, and the 18n862 to be excellent options.

The 18ds has by far the most motor force. That may be good for small-box, or may be bad for port velocity.

The 18n862 will cost the most, and is only rated to 200hz response. The graph looks clean above that, but maybe distortion is an issue. Along with the difficulty of getting them, probably the least likely candidate. Looks like it would work well sealed.

The TD18h+ seems to be the go-to driver for cost-no-object builds (as are the td-m mids). Looks like it will work sealed or ported.

I’ll share models if I ever get them done. Will be modeling the td10m and 12p80ndv2 also.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,769 Posts
Would you mind to elaborate? I'm sorry, i'm not following your line of thought :)

I have 2 BMS 18N862 as subwoofers, they are amazing drivers.

But for a 3 way speaker, unless the goal is max extension, the AE TD18H+ is a better driver, moreover as the OP is in the USA.
Nevertheless, its a moot point, as the OP already has the B&C 18ds115 he want's to use.

Unless ... :)

@a77cj7, what about trying to sell the B&C drivers, you should be able to sell them for a good price ...

Then you could go with a TPL-200 + TD10M + TD18H+ !!!

IIRC, @Mike Garrett uses a TPL-150H + TD10M + TD18H+, so maybe he can provide his input :)
I use dual TD12M's with TD18H+ and TPL-150H. I already had three TD12M's, is why I used those. If starting from scratch, I would use the TD10M. Not because I am unhappy with the TD12M's, I just think the TD10M is a little better match and would allow you to experiment with higher crossovers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I use dual TD12M's with TD18H+ and TPL-150H. I already had three TD12M's, is why I used those. If starting from scratch, I would use the TD10M. Not because I am unhappy with the TD12M's, I just think the TD10M is a little better match and would allow you to experiment with higher crossovers.

Awesome. What crossovers are you using (Frequency and hardware)?

Got any pics?

I feel like I’ve seen your build before, but its been awhile.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,769 Posts
Awesome. What crossovers are you using (Frequency and hardware)?

Got any pics?

I feel like I’ve seen your build before, but its been awhile.

Chris
Using a couple DBX DriveRack PA2's for crossover and DSP. Like these much better than the MiniDSP10x10HD's I was using.
TD18H+ in separate cabinet and TPL-150H is boxed out with back cup removed.
High pass 1.2kHz LR24db for TPL-150H
High pass 250Hz LR24db TD12M/TD12M low pass 1.1kHZ LR24db
Low pass 200Hz LR24db TD18H+
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Using a couple DBX DriveRack PA2's for crossover and DSP. Like these much better than the MiniDSP10x10HD's I was using.
TD18H+ in separate cabinet and TPL-150H is boxed out with back cup removed.
High pass 1.2kHz LR24db for TPL-150H
High pass 250Hz LR24db TD12M/TD12M low pass 1.1kHZ LR24db
Low pass 200Hz LR24db TD18H+

Awesome setup, thanks for sharing. How big is the screen?

Yeah, I use a minidsp 4x10 for my sub channel. Works great for that, but has quirks and I didn’t feel they were appropriate for high-sensitivity mains. Plus, one channel short, as are most dsp’s.

I’m hoping to use crown dci-n amps with internal dsp. I figure that if its good enough for the JBL m2, it should be good enough for me.
Otherwise, I’ll ebay a ashly 24.24m. Reportedly completely silent on high efficiency cd’s, and can have plenty of channels with right cards installed.

Why the dual mids?

Any issue with the woofer being forward of the mid and tweet? I hope not, as that is my intention as well.

What volume on tpl rear chamber? Lined with denim? Foam still in place on tpl?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
804 Posts
The graph looks clean above that, but maybe distortion is an issue.
According to Ricci from data-bass.com:
Parameter testing and impedance measurements show that the inductance is very well controlled, which is not surprising due to the triple shorting rings in the neo motor. When combined with the light moving mass this gives the 18N862 a very nice top end, which should be useful up till at least 400-500Hz. It would make a great woofer for a large three way
This driver makes a lot of sense in Europe, not so much in the USA, as its way expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
Troels uses it in his large 3 way, don’t remember what his cross over was, I think 500hz?

I’m sure the 18DS will be a good large bottom end, I’d have to look up more about it but I don’t see why it couldn’t handle even a 300hz cross over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Troels uses it in his large 3 way, don’t remember what his cross over was, I think 500hz?

I’m sure the 18DS will be a good large bottom end, I’d have to look up more about it but I don’t see why it couldn’t handle even a 300hz cross over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 18ds has much higher inductance than the td or bms. Its still rated for 500hz response though.
I’m not sure exactly where I will cross it, 350hz was just a guess.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
Do know where the 18DS starts to break up?

I know it’s inductance is higher but it can’t be THAT much higher.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
I’ve only seen one project use them as well.
This one: https://www.avnirvana.com/threads/build-thread-ae-td10m-beyma-tpl-200h.1510/
Luckily (or sadly), I now own that pair of tpl-200h’s.

I was planning on tpl-150h’s, but got a decent deal on the 200’s.

What BMS are you suggesting? I didn’t look at them very close, as they seem to be very hard to get in the US. A quick look at the 12” shows nothing as good as the Beyma or AE.

Chris


I was about to buy either the Radian 951 or the BMS 4594 until Assistance Audio gave me a dope deal on 4590s. Hurd has had to endure me constantly waffling on them and trying to go back to my original plan.

I think you’ll really like your TPL200’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
I was about to buy either the Radian 951 or the BMS 4594 until Assistance Audio gave me a dope deal on 4590s. Hurd has had to endure me constantly waffling on them and trying to go back to my original plan.

I think you’ll really like your TPL200’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sure hope so. By far the most I’ve spent on drivers other than subwoofers.

I need to listen to some really good cd’s at some point. Maybe some JTR’s.

Until then, these seemed like my best endgame speaker option. Hopefully I can make them sound good.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
I sure hope so. By far the most I’ve spent on drivers other than subwoofers.

I need to listen to some really good cd’s at some point. Maybe some JTR’s.

Until then, these seemed like my best endgame speaker option. Hopefully I can make them sound good.

Chris

The JTR’s use the 4594, some of the CD’s DIYSG uses sound pretty good too.

There’s a bunch out there that are great, the HF series from faital pro has great value/perf too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
I sure hope so. By far the most I’ve spent on drivers other than subwoofers.

I need to listen to some really good cd’s at some point. Maybe some JTR’s.

Until then, these seemed like my best endgame speaker option. Hopefully I can make them sound good.

Chris
I am certainly pretty much not even interested in other tweeters at this point that's how good these TPL's sound to me. I've got 7 of them all around me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I am certainly pretty much not even interested in other tweeters at this point that's how good these TPL's sound to me. I've got 7 of them all around me.

Did you try out a tpl-75 for surround use before going with the tpl-150h’s everywhere?

Thinking for my own future here, lol.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
Did you try out a tpl-75 for surround use before going with the tpl-150h’s everywhere?

Thinking for my own future here, lol.

Chris
No, it wasn't out at the time, and regardless I dont think its got quite enough sensitivity and power handling.

I also wouldn't bother order the TPL-200H over the 150H. But if you got a good deal, then great.

Keen to see your measurements when you get it though.
 
21 - 40 of 81 Posts
Top