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So I'm just in the hypothetical realm at the moment, but I'm basically looking to build a dedicated Man Cave/Movie room. I want to run a projector with a perf screen and run speakers behind them.


I'm looking at running towers around the room (I get them for dirt cheap through my supplier) in a wierd configuration.

http://imageshack.us/f/847/overheadviewofplacement.jpg
http://imageshack.us/f/232/frontscreenarea.jpg


Here's some very rough drawings of what I'm wanting to do.


I'm looking at the Aventage Line from Yamaha and basically wondering, how do I run more speakers than what 1 receiver can do? Everything will be using HDMI (Bluray, HD Gaming, TV) if that matters. Can I just buy 2 and link them together?


All together not including subs, I'm looking to run 10 towers. 2 centers, 2 Left Fronts, 2 Right Fronts, 2 surrounds, and 2 surround backs for the entire room.


I don't want to underpower the towers so bi-amping may be a possibility. The recievers would be A-1000 yamahas more than likely unless a smarter recommendation with just one reciever is possible. The towers are Klipsch Icon KF-28s.


Thanks to anyone who can help.
 

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This is quite honestly a horrible idea, IMO. Simply put, this would be an acoustical nightmare, as you'd have two separate processing units providing audio in a single space, so you'd be dealing with synchronizing issues (i.e. what if the sound from one unit comes out of the speakers 2ms earlier than the other unit, is one example at a very basic level), peaks/nulls at a wide variety of frequency ranges, weird coherence from speaker to speaker, etc. This is definitely an issue of K.I.S.S. (keep it simple, stupid); just because you can get speakers cheap does not mean you should use them all in the same space. Let one processor/receiver do its job, i.e. decoding the numbers of audio channels that are in the mix, and let your speakers do their job, 1 speaker per channel. I have no doubt others will chime in why this is a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good to know. I was asking more so in the hypothetical realm, and it makes sense what both of you guys are saying. So one reciever, and if necessary run an external amp. Skip unnecessary speakers like 2 centers.


I was more wondering about powering 200 watt RMS towers with 60 watt outputs. How would bi amping not give the speaker additional power? Maybe i'm confused with the term, but wouldn't running two terminals into one tower (the tower was 2 sets of binding posts, I'm assuming one for tweeter and one for midrange) give it more power when setting the receiver to bi-amp and using the external posts of the receiver?


The last thing I want to do it underpower the speakers.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by germanplumber /forum/post/20774861


I was more wondering about powering 200 watt RMS towers with 60 watt outputs. How would bi amping not give the speaker additional power? Maybe i'm confused with the term, but wouldn't running two terminals into one tower (the tower was 2 sets of binding posts, I'm assuming one for tweeter and one for midrange) give it more power when setting the receiver to bi-amp and using the external posts of the receiver?

No. Do a search on "passive bi amp." This situation comes up at least once a week in this forum. And the answer does not change. Passive bi amping does not provide more usable power output. In fact, with an AVR, it can actually reduce usable power output.

Quote:
Originally Posted by germanplumber /forum/post/20774861


The last thing I want to do it underpower the speakers.

The KF-28s have 98 dB sensitivity. They require no more than ~10 W to play ridiculously loud.


AJ
 

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Theres a differnace between bi amping and bi wiring.

I think people are mixing up what each actualy is or how it works.


Bi amping is where you actaually have 2 amps feedign a speaker. One for Highs and onefor lows. And you cant do this unless you have an external crossover and amplifiers. The speaker has to be wired to be bi ampable ( 2 sets of speaker termninals )


Bi wiring is where you run 2 sets of speaker wires from the samem amp and connect one set ot the high input and the other set to the low input. Instead of using Jumpers on the speaker you run more speaker wire back to the amp. This is supposed to keep the woofer signal when it moves back from distorting the tweeter...This is totally mythical if you ask me though becuase weather your using jumpers at the speaker or run the extra speaker wire they are still connected at one end. Teh speed of electricity is so fast it will get to the tweeter. Ive heard that that extra energy from the woofer movign back is not ebough to flow the distance back down the line to get to the tweeter but I just dont buy it.
 

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I do agree with the above replies...sounds like extreme overkill. But you really want to do it and you have the money to burn, you might be able to get preamp/AV processor and then use the output of each channel to feed a separate stereo power amp splitting the signal and feeding each channel of the amp or run them in bridged mono. Then you could run 2 speakers off each amp. Of course your talking about 5 stereo power amps and a preamp/processor, BIG $$$ ...on the plus side you wont have to worry about under powering your towers!!!!
 

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The best way to power speakers, if you lack power is to buy more amps. In your case, I suspect you may be running too many speakers.


I would start a thread in the speaker forum, or some sort of home theater build forum (forget it's name here,) and make sure you are using the proper amount of speakers. More is not always better. Once you resolve that question, than you can start thinking about what you need for amps.


I can give you an example of adding power, though. I have a Yamaha RX-Z7. To improve total system power, I added an Emotiva XPA-3 (sale priced,) and a two channel Crown pro amp (also sale priced,) and only use the Z7 to handle the "side" surrounds. That brings my theoretical system power to something like 1300 watts. My best guess, is that any deficiencies in my system are not caused by lack of power. Of course you then run into other issues, like room deficiencies and speaker deficiencies. I have a normal 7.1 speaker setup, but I added power with additional amps.
 

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I'm interested in almost the same question as the OP. I wonder about using HDMI to daisy chain CEC strictly for power on/off function. My "downstream" AVR(s) would use analog inputs fed from the primary receiver's pre-outs, so no processing in the downstream AVR(s).

I'm seeing good used 7.1ch AVRs for way less money than many other (especially multi-channel) external amp options.

Fwiw, the configuration I almost have built, mostly on the cheap:
sr7010
15.2 spkrs: L/C/R, Surr, Rear Surr, Front Wide, Front Height, & Rear Height (ext. amp), 2CH (ext. amp), 2 subs
8 spkrs: four remote rooms 2CH (ext. amp / spkr switches)
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23.2 speakers
 
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