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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all -

So my wife and I purchased a Samsung 630 from Circuit City the other day - They were having their going out of business liquidation sale, and this was the last one on the floor. They gave us a great deal on it, since it was a display model.

Anyway, we get it home, and notice there is some very stubborn adhesive on the ToC bezel. Try as I might, nothing could get this stuff off. So, I do the most stupid thing ever (knowing full-well that it might be bad for the plastic), and tested a small area using... Goof-Off. It was on the clear area, and I didn't see any ill-effects, so I thought, "Let's try it." Within 2 seconds of gentle wiping, I knew I had made a mistake. The chemical had dulled the nice shiny finish (and didn't take the adhesive off). My wife looked at me in shock. I had just marred our brand new tv, that hasn't even been viewed more than 2 hours.


Is there any way to buff this type of plastic to restore it's shine using a special compound and buffing wheel? It's quite an eye-sore, even though it's in the corner, and against a nearly-black background color (has a bit of red to it). I assume this plastic is acrylic, but I'm not sure. Can anyone give any suggestions? Replacing this bezel, if possible, would probably be very expensive...


Yes, I am an idiot.

Thank you to anyone who can help!


-Ryan
 

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This post might help:

Quote:
This is my first post on this forum.I would like to share some information I feel many will find helpful.Yesterday I decided to clean the bezel on my 40" 750 series lcd tv,in doing so I noticed a rather large scratch near the Samsung logo at the bottom of the bezel.I foolishly decided to try and fill it in with a clear liquid type compound and ended up with a shiny sticky looking patch.Things went from bad to worse when I could not get it cleaned off and ended up using a solvent product.I got rid of the liquid compound but ended up with a nice white chemical burn mark in the bezel!.I was sure the bezel was now ruined,so I contacted Samsung for a replacement.The 120.00 price seemed reasonable considering what I paid for the tv.I decided to hold off on confirming the order thinking at this point I don't have much to lose by trying to remove the white mark etched in the bezel from the solvent.This brings me to why I decided to post...I first used a clear coat polishing compound(Simonize)that I had for my car,after hard rubbing with several treatments,I then used a scratch and swirl remover(Turtle Wax) followed up with a liquid wax(Turtle Wax)..Well I couldn't believe the results.There was no sign of any damage at all to the bezel.I was so impressed I decided to do the whole bezel all around to remove fine scratches from regular dusting.The bezel now looks like it just came out of the box!!I hope this post saves someone else from some of the initial anxiety I went through in the beginning....

Samsung 750 forum, page 334
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you SO much for this reply!

I just read this after trying an equivalent - Meguiar's PlastX. I figured if it could de-haze a headlight cover, it should help (at least) this chemical burn - assuming this bezel was made of acrylic too.

I took a clear acrylic measuring cup, and rubbed some goof-off on it to see if it suffered the same effect - and it did.

I brought this with me to the auto parts store, and they allowed me to test a bit on it before purchasing. The Meguiar's took the haze right out of it, so I was hopeful.

Like the post you mentioned, after several treatments, the damage to the bezel was optically invisible. Yet, there was still evidence of the deeper "streaking" when viewed from an extreme close angle.

I'm glad I wasn't the only shmuck who ended up doing this to their TV :)


I'll try the other treatments done by the other guy to see if it helps erase ALL evidence of my screw-up!


Thanks again for this!


-Ryan
 

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Well, after reading this I guess I won't peel off that little Energy Star sticker that's on the bezel bottom left on my Panny LCD that's been bugging me.


Glad you were able to fix it enough so it doesn't drive you insane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so after a day of knowing that the rough "grooves" left by the chemical abrasion was still there (just clear), I decided I needed to try another attempt at removing them.


In researching plastic polishes and the like, I came across another headlight restore kit, that claimed to be able to remove deep scratches. The kit utilized 1000 to 2000 grit wet sandpaper, and some sort of rubbing compound. Unfortunately this kit was $35. I thought I could do the same thing by going to a hardware store and picking up the sandpaper myself, and using the same Meguiar's polish that worked so well before. So this is what I did.


First, I tested this process on that same acrylic measuring cup, to see if the results were desirable. Indeed, the deeper grooves left by dragging the cloth across the plastic surface were gone, yet, fine sanding swirl marks were still visible, even after polishing had removed the dullness of the finish. I decided that this was due to the fact that I only was able to find 1500 grit paper.


So, I got to work on the TV. I kept my paper plenty wet, and cleaned it often. I worked in straight strokes; then strokes 90 degrees opposite; then a final, very light pressure, circular motion. After wiping the area clean, I noticed that much of the deep streaks were gone. There was still some 'pits' left over, that were just too deep to mess with. I polished the dullness away with the PlastX, and looked at the results.


Overall, a much better improvement in appearance! The grooves are gone, having been replaced by ultrafine swirl marks... I think this can be further reduced if I try some 2000-3000 grit sandpaper, and perhaps some rubbing compound. In fact, I may bite the bullet, and buy that $35 kit, since it is made for this type of application... I was just hoping to save some $$$.



-Ryan
 

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For anyone instead of goof off which is made to take off dried latex paint, try Goo Gone an orange oil product made specifically to take off adhesive residue. I have used it on all sorts of plastics and paints with no ill effects. Be sure if you have a polished surface to use a non abrasive cloth. Microfiber cloths are great. Or that fake chamois stuff. A tee shirt that has been washed until it is really no longer wearable is a good alternative. Paper towel not so good.


A good source of materials to polish plastic is a boat store. Those plastic windows always need some polishing.


One other thing you can try is the polish used for fiberglass bathtubs and those fake marble countertops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Jerry -

I may have to look into those other polishes... I'd love to get rid of the ultrafine swirl marks... They're basically invisible unless you get right up to it, but since I'm anal about it, I would love to *really* make them go away
 

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Thanks for the update!


Sometimes my rush to correct a problem makes it worst too!


FWTW: I have a new Samsung 750 sitting (unopened) in the box from last week. I'm just too busy with work and our annual inspection to even think about a setting up a TV right now.
 

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You might have wanted to just have tried the PlastiX before going to sandpaper. PlastiX is awesome, but it can take alot of work.


Also NEVER EVER EVER use pretty much anything in a circular motion, even more so sandpaper. What I would do now, is get some 2000 grit and 3000 grit. And then FINISH with the PlastiX1500 grit sand paper is not even close to a high enough grit for your final passes.


I would open up the phone book and try to find an autobody paint and supply store, and see if they have any meguires uni-grit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutdotnet /forum/post/15619159


You might have wanted to just have tried the PlastiX before going to sandpaper. PlastiX is awesome, but it can take alot of work.


Also NEVER EVER EVER use pretty much anything in a circular motion, even more so sandpaper. What I would do now, is get some 2000 grit and 3000 grit. And then FINISH with the PlastiX1500 grit sand paper is not even close to a high enough grit for your final passes.


I would open up the phone book and try to find an autobody paint and supply store, and see if they have any meguires uni-grit.

Hi Nutdotnet -

I did try the plastX by itself at first, but that damn goof-off + that rag I used, just left some relatively deep wipe marks that were still visible at certain angles. They were optically clear, but in the sense that water ripples are clear... The surface was just rough... the plastX just couldn't take that much out.


Yes, 1500 grit just seems a bit too rough for a gloss finish... I had gone back and soaked the 1500 in water for over an hour, and then went over it again in straight strokes, very, very lightly (almost no pressure), and it didn't leave as noticeable sand marks - and the wipe marks left by the chemical abrasion lifted mostly out (aside from a few pot marks). Since I didn't have any 3000 grit, I decided to try finishing with plastX again to see

the results. It took a few good hard polishes - I even used a buffing head on a low speed dremel with the plastX - and the dullness came right out, and looks better than it did. The sanding marks are still there, but you have to get right up within 6 inches to even see them. I think the 3000 grit may take care of that if I do another pass...

Would you recommend any specific rubbing compound to use in conjunction with this?
 

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Forget sand paper and get some Novus 1, 2, and 3 plastic polish. I was a doubter until I tried them myself and now I'm a believer.
Just Google it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingmeow /forum/post/15661197


Forget sand paper and get some Novus 1, 2, and 3 plastic polish. I was a doubter until I tried them myself and now I'm a believer.
Just Google it.

I have heard of this stuff actually (in my googling to find a product that might work). Does it take out fairly "deep" pots and marks, along with scratches?

Too bad I can't buy any of this stuff locally... seems like an internet-only thing...


Thanks for any comments!


-Ryan
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Nut /forum/post/15613087



For anyone instead of goof off which is made to take off dried latex paint, try Goo Gone an orange oil product made specifically to take off adhesive residue ...

Another thing that I have found to be quite effective is gool old fashioned rubbing alcohol. I wouldn't use it on the screen because you could potentially damage the anti-reflecyiove coating, but it should be fine on an acrylic bezel.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDinan /forum/post/15686259


I have heard of this stuff actually (in my googling to find a product that might work). Does it take out fairly "deep" pots and marks, along with scratches?

Too bad I can't buy any of this stuff locally... seems like an internet-only thing...


Thanks for any comments!


-Ryan

It does but my definition of "deep" may be different than your definition. If you have a musical instruments store nearby check with them. Apparently a lot of guitarists use the #1 to keep their guitars shiney and dust free.


I got mine at Sam Ash music store. I actually use the stuff all over the house.
 

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They should call it "Goof-On" instead. That stuff is so abrasive - though it's great for cleaning most things...
 

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Isopropyl alchohol will remove the goo from stickers without damaging surfaces. The stuff the original poster used contains a solvent, probably denatured alcohol also used to remove latex paint, which will destroy plastic.
 
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