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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
About to wrap up my Maximus 12LXE build and can't seem to find answers to a couple questions.

Is there any purpose in lining the chamber walls where the compression driver/wave-guide lives?

Beyond that, is there a reason to line the mid-range chamber? Should that chamber get polyfill?

I have denim insulation left over from the lower section and some extra polyfill. Thanks folks.
 

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The midrange chamber should be heavily stuffed with polyfill or denim insulation. I would probably put a piece of denim insulation in there on the back wall and then stuff the remainder with polyfill. The upper chamber with the waveguide doesn't really matter because it's sealed off from everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The midrange chamber should be heavily stuffed with polyfill or denim insulation. I would probably put a piece of denim insulation in there on the back wall and then stuff the remainder with polyfill. The upper chamber with the waveguide doesn't really matter because it's sealed off from everything else.
Thanks Erich....just the info I needed. Can't wait to get these up and running. Believe it or not the hold up is the acry-tech brush I use for applying the Duratex....back ordered and no one seems to know of a suitable alternative. :mad:
 

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if you're looking to avoid "Excessive" time wrt getting the cab coated / finished looking

the acry-tech roller , if that's what you mean, is ok for a good enough for now and dry in 30 minutes touch up / coverage for gear getting moved, bounced and occasionally banged around . . .

while waiting, try a few coats of rolled flat black acrylic with some sanding prep, that drill, time consuming and tedious as it truly is,
to get an idea of your finished "finish"

OTOH, diluting the duratex about 20-ish% and using a 1/4" weenie roller/ or a foam roller
in a draft and dust free location
may produce a "nicer' and smoother finish over the prepped primer base

that pic is cup gun sprayed over some babied roller priming, etc.

also: easier to wipe down for dust, whatever

also at $70/gallon, extending useful coverage enhances ROI

HTH
 

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647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
if you're looking to avoid "Excessive" time wrt getting the cab coated / finished looking

the acry-tech roller , if that's what you mean, is ok for a good enough for now and dry in 30 minutes touch up / coverage for gear getting moved, bounced and occasionally banged around . . .

while waiting, try a few coats of rolled flat black acrylic with some sanding prep, that drill, time consuming and tedious as it truly is,
to get an idea of your finished "finish"

OTOH, diluting the duratex about 20-ish% and using a 1/4" weenie roller/ or a foam roller
in a draft and dust free location
may produce a "nicer' and smoother finish over the prepped primer base

that pic is cup gun sprayed over some babied roller priming, etc.

also: easier to wipe down for dust, whatever

also at $70/gallon, extending useful coverage enhances ROI

HTH
Appreciate the input. Those look great. I've finished all my gear in Duratex with the Acry-tech roller so I'll continue to finish the project so everything matches. I've done a set of Fusion 12, four 4-cuft sealed boxes, a full set of Vibe 6 kits and now on to the Maximus and a couple 21" Full Marty boxes.

The lower section of the Max's are done so I need to continue on. Unfortunately I forgot to clean the roller after my last go and its shot. BTW The GSG Marty boxes are a great invention. No seams to deal with, very well thought out and solid as a rock.

I had some plans to finish this gear with veneer but the lower modules came with a round-over front baffle (thought they came flat) and I decided just to default the the Duratex again. Its a dedicated HT so it works.
 
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