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ok now I think I get you - I didn't notice the Alpines are dual voice coil. So it sounds like the Alpines are wired in series each particular standalone driver
Yep, got it. Can see in the one pic I posted where the piece of 10awg wire jumpers the coils together making them 4ohm drivers.
 

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Any of you guys use these in a 2 channel music only system? If so how good do they work? Wondering if i should add one to my new JTR Noesis 215RT's. Thanks!
 

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Any of you guys use these in a 2 channel music only system? If so how good do they work? Wondering if i should add one to my new JTR Noesis 215RT's. Thanks!
I've a 2 channel setup in the garage with lilmikes tapped horn picowrecker(uses a single SWS alpine 10") paired with basically custom made Fustion 10's as mains. Sounds awesome btw. Adding a second picowrecker since have space and an extra channel on the ep4000 powering it. Feeding about 900wRMS to the one cab now. HPF @25hz -12db slope.

I use the upstairs Danleys in 2ch mode with running just 2 of the fusion 12 (tempests) for music sometimes. It works but sometimes I like to boost the low end a few db and overdo the volume. I'm a bass head for music. But detail wise the TH are great for balance not being muddy. Just direct, detailed and accurate sounding.

As a tapped horn enthusiast I'd say you'd like it for 2ch listening as well as movies. The dts-10 definitely is king with movies due to the low knee in the bandwidth ie approx 11hz.
 

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I've a 2 channel setup in the garage with lilmikes tapped horn picowrecker(uses a single SWS alpine 10") paired with basically custom made Fustion 10's as mains. Sounds awesome btw. Adding a second picowrecker since have space and an extra channel on the ep4000 powering it. Feeding about 900wRMS to the one cab now. HPF @25hz -12db slope.

I use the upstairs Danleys in 2ch mode with running just 2 of the fusion 12 (tempests) for music sometimes. It works but sometimes I like to boost the low end a few db and overdo the volume. I'm a bass head for music. But detail wise the TH are great for balance not being muddy. Just direct, detailed and accurate sounding.

As a tapped horn enthusiast I'd day you'd like it for 2ch listening as well as movies. The dts-10 definitely is king with movies due to the low knee in the bandwidth ie approx 11hz.

Thank you for the listening impression. Sounds like a potential future upgrade!:)
 

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What a great info source still going after these years. My DTS-10 never fails to impress visitors to my black basement theater. Just ordered 2 Alpine drivers from Sonic to replace my stock drivers. I'll keep the stock ones as back up.

peace,
Mark H
 

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Two DTS-10’s for sale in the classifieds. These hardly ever come up for sale as I check often. If I weren’t in the middle of a dedicated room build and already triple my initial budget I’d be all over them so I’d have 6 :)
 

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Two DTS-10’s for sale in the classifieds. These hardly ever come up for sale as I check often. If I weren’t in the middle of a dedicated room build and already triple my initial budget I’d be all over them so I’d have 6 :)
4 can fill some serious space.....6 is insane :) unless trying to fill over 3000 sq ft, but this is AVS and no replacement for displacement. Seriously 6 would be like 32x 18's on a pile of clone amps. Come on man :D no reason to put that much pressure on yourself during movie scenes. Concrete bunker with raised wood floor might handle it. Otherwise I'd set aside budget to fix room flaws as they appear. Cracks, broken lights, hell may even destroy the projector :)
 

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One of my DTS-10 drivers is blown. Can someone suggest me a good replacement driver? is Alpine R-W12D2 the best alternative?
No complaints here. The Alpine drivers IMO are much better all around than the factory drivers. Replaced all drivers in my 2 cabinets with no regrets. I highly recommend them.
 

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One of my DTS-10 drivers is blown. Can someone suggest me a good replacement driver? is Alpine R-W12D2 the best alternative?
How did you blow the driver out of curiosity? Are you using an HPF?

Obviously if you go the Alpine route you will want to replace both drivers and not just the blown one.
 

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How did you blow the driver out of curiosity? Are you using an HPF?

Obviously if you go the Alpine route you will want to replace both drivers and not just the blown one.
Honestly I don't know, I rarely play my speakers loud. I don't use a HPF.

When I said the driver is blown, I didn't mean there is any physical damage I could see. There is this noise similar to nails vibrating on a metal sheet from inside the magnet housing. When I took out the driver and bump it on the floor, the same noise is there. I guess something is loose inside.
Anyway I have ordered the Alpines.
 

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How did you blow the driver out of curiosity? Are you using an HPF?

Obviously if you go the Alpine route you will want to replace both drivers and not just the blown one.
This might be dumb question. One of Alpine drivers is already with me. The other might take a while as it is back ordered.
Are there any possibilities for damage if I use the Alpine with the original till the second Alpine arrives?
 

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...Are there any possibilities for damage if I use the Alpine with the original till the second Alpine arrives?...

First of all, why are you buying a different model Alpine driver? All the previous comments were regarding the SWR-12D2 driver.

Is the SWR-12D2 obsolete now? (It looks like you can still get them here)


The Alpine R-W12D2 is not the same as the SWR-12D2, it's got a lower power handling spec and some of the Thiel-Small parameters are a little different too.
I know tapped horn enclosures are very sensitive to driver parameters, but if you're lucky the differences might be small enough to be ignored.


To answer your question, if you really only listen at low volume then there should be no problem mixing drivers until your second one arrives.
 

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First of all, why are you buying a different model Alpine driver? All the previous comments were regarding the SWR-12D2 driver.

Is the SWR-12D2 obsolete now? (It looks like you can still get them here)


The Alpine R-W12D2 is not the same as the SWR-12D2, it's got a lower power handling spec and some of the Thiel-Small parameters are a little different too.
I know tapped horn enclosures are very sensitive to driver parameters, but if you're lucky the differences might be small enough to be ignored.


To answer your question, if you really only listen at low volume then there should be no problem mixing drivers until your second one arrives.
Looks like R-W12D2 is the replacement of the SWR. They are not available anymore here in Canada. Also if you look at the picture on the first post of this page, the model number shows R-W12D2.
Today I replaced the faulty one and there was a significant improvement. I think I was listening to the blown driver for a while and never realized. :)
I have two other 18" subwoofers in the theater and I don't enjoy hearing the rattles from the walls/doors. It takes me out of the movie. So I look for a balance and I never really play them very loud.
 

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First of all, why are you buying a different model Alpine driver? All the previous comments were regarding the SWR-12D2 driver.

Is the SWR-12D2 obsolete now? (It looks like you can still get them here)


The Alpine R-W12D2 is not the same as the SWR-12D2, it's got a lower power handling spec and some of the Thiel-Small parameters are a little different too.
I know tapped horn enclosures are very sensitive to driver parameters, but if you're lucky the differences might be small enough to be ignored.


To answer your question, if you really only listen at low volume then there should be no problem mixing drivers until your second one arrives.


The W series alpines which are replacing both SWR and replacing the SWS with W identifiers are more power handling versions than the originals. They still model well for the drivers they replace. Running the W series in my danley cabs and the newer W series SWS type S in my picowreckers (4 of them). Sound just as awesome and really take a beating with power levels.
 

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Honestly I don't know, I rarely play my speakers loud. I don't use a HPF.

When I said the driver is blown, I didn't mean there is any physical damage I could see. There is this noise similar to nails vibrating on a metal sheet from inside the magnet housing. When I took out the driver and bump it on the floor, the same noise is there. I guess something is loose inside.
Anyway I have ordered the Alpines.
You really need a high pass filter at 11Hz to run these up to potential without the drivers unloading. If no filters at all they will bottom the drivers slamming them into the backplates (unloading by being out of cabinets bandwidth) this damages the back of the coil and causes scrapes and rattles. The rattles are exaggerated due to the fact the horn exit is so high efficiency you hear it. When a hatch is off and push on a driver or listening close it might be hard to hear directly due to not being amplified by the cabinet.

Please do yourself a favor and use a HPF @11hz minimal -12db but recommended up to -24db.

The other 4 necessary filters in this thread are highly recommended also and should always be run with these as the factory does. They are.

PEQ minus 4.6dB, @ 29Hz, Q=5 BW=0.2881 BFD=17.3
PEQ minus 8.4dB @ 55Hz, Q=8.9 BW=0.162 BFD=9.7
PEQ minus 7.5dB @ 84Hz, Q=2.8 BW=0.5125 BFD=30.8
PEQ minus 14.4dB @ 154Hz, Q=1.1 BW=1.2701 BFD=76.2

All in all thats 5 filters minimum everyone using a dts10 should be using. Then adjust to room eq. These filters are cabinet eq and required for it to survive.
 

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You really need a high pass filter at 11Hz to run these up to potential without the drivers unloading. If no filters at all they will bottom the drivers slamming them into the backplates (unloading by being out of cabinets bandwidth) this damages the back of the coil and causes scrapes and rattles. The rattles are exaggerated due to the fact the horn exit is so high efficiency you hear it. When a hatch is off and push on a driver or listening close it might be hard to hear directly due to not being amplified by the cabinet.

Please do yourself a favor and use a HPF @11hz minimal -12db but recommended up to -24db.

The other 4 necessary filters in this thread are highly recommended also and should always be run with these as the factory does. They are.

PEQ minus 4.6dB, @ 29Hz, Q=5 BW=0.2881 BFD=17.3
PEQ minus 8.4dB @ 55Hz, Q=8.9 BW=0.162 BFD=9.7
PEQ minus 7.5dB @ 84Hz, Q=2.8 BW=0.5125 BFD=30.8
PEQ minus 14.4dB @ 154Hz, Q=1.1 BW=1.2701 BFD=76.2

All in all thats 5 filters minimum everyone using a dts10 should be using. Then adjust to room eq. These filters are cabinet eq and required for it to survive.
Thank you for the input. I read a few threads on the topic and have some idea now. What I can't find is any particular recommendation for the EQ and HPF. Do you have any suggestions? I would prefer them to be not too expensive.
 
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