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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

This is a "TV Signal Analysis Results" for my location: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d5b940ce53fc61bhttp://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d5b94fd32b91991

 

I made some research, but this will be my first outside antenna install and I'd appreciate any help or guidance. We have a DishNetwork setup currently. I would like to use the existing 6 year old coax for the new setup. I'll get a new UVSJ splitter or whichever you recommend.

 

I was thinking to purchase a Winegard HD7698p antenna due to frequent winds and high woods in our area. I don't know at what height should the antenna be installed at. The current DishNetwork bracket is @ height of our house is one story only and it does not have any chimney.

 

The primary TV is a Sony Bravia KDL-32EX400 and the secondary TV's are a RCA L32WD22 and a Vizio VW22LHDTV10T.

 

The set-top unit would be a "Toshiba DR560 1080p Upconverting DVD Recorder with Built-in Tuner" for now. As soon as the Roku TV will come out, I will get that one. We would watch Netflix through my laptop hooked up via HDMI until then.

 

The longest coax cable measures up to 100 feet, including the splitter somewhere in the middle at 50 feet. I am not sure which bracket to get to mount the antenna securely to the face of the wood siding. The dish is attached to the side of our house and I would like to install the new antenna mount in the same place. I will have to get a mast pipe extension.

 

There is a cell tower with T-Mobile and AT&T antennas 0.4 mile near us. However, it is from the opposite direction of the broadcast. No buildings are in the broadcast direction.
 

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PLEASE read the instructions (sticky threads) before posting. A location is REQUIRED in the title of ALL antenna help threads. See my edit.
 

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A Winegard 7694 or 7695 would probably be fine for your local channels around 20 miles, but if you want some of the neighboring markets then perhaps a 7696.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Five days have gone by, but I still don't know what is compatible with the HD7698p antenna.

Please note, I did list my location at the end instead of at the front; however, I did list all 9 items per your request in an order to get a faster reply.

DishNetwork keeps adding fees every month to our bill now and I would really like to nuke this greedy company.

Winegard provides only 30 days help after reception of the antenna. I don't have much time to order items to test if they will work with this antenna or not. I am not an electrician, but a DIY person that is willing to learn details of an antenna installation for my situation. There are so many products out there, my head is spinning of what to get.

Can someone help me, please?
 

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That's probably more antenna than you need, but you know your terrain better than we do. Reflections off of that cell phone tower could be an issue with anything smaller, though. Hard to say.


I would recommend a rotor if you're interested in any of those fringe stations. If not, given your distance, a fixed mount might work. You may have to make a few trips back up to reposition it until you find the perfect spot. Adjust it and sample several minutes of programming for each important channel (or watch any on-screen signal meters you might have). Remember that signal meters are usually just a calculation of error correction, not actual signal strength. The more error correction, the lower the thermometer bar will go. A wildly fluctuating signal meter usually means an adjustment is needed. You might need to live with a position for a few days before changing it).


With 100 foot driving a splitter and at least two televisions, you'll need a pre-amp, such as the CM 7777 mounted up on the antenna mast.


Keep receipts.
 

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Maybe take a look here: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-install-a-TV-antenna-or-aerial/?ALLSTEPS

If you don't use dish any more you can use the cable that went from the dish to receiver and go from the antenna to the TV. You probably don't need a preamp. You can split the signal to multiple locations using this http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=05&p=HFS2D&d=Holland-%28HFS2D%29-2Way-Splitter-%2852050-Mhz%29-Diode-Steered-%28HFS2D%29&c=Splitters&sku= or this http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=xgvs-4&d=toner-cable-1-ghz-4-way-digital-drop-splitter-%28xgvs-4%29

The antenna will mount on a vertical pole which can be secured to the house in many ways using stuff you can see here http://www.solidsignal.com/cview.asp?mc=03&d=over-the-air-tv-antennas-supplies&c=Mounting%20Supplies

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Thank you for your suggestions.

 

One more question. The height of our antenna mount is at 13 feet right now. Looking at a topo map and the contours in the broadcast’s direction, there is a barn 700 feet from the future antenna in the way of receiving CBS, FOX, ABC, and PBS channels with the FOX being almost at the peak of the barn. The ground elevation of the barn is most likely 8-10 feet higher than our house’s elevation. The barn’s height is probably 18 feet at its peak. Here is a link to the antennaweb.org info with aerials of broadcast over the barn: http://i58.tinypic.com/24njx2h.jpg

This is also one reason I was opting for the HD7698p antenna not knowing the proper evaluation math. Here is an address to combined image of 13'-20'-25'-30' heights analysis: http://i57.tinypic.com/29pq1k8.jpg

The trees in the reception direction are about 60-70 feet tall.

 

If I need to mount the antenna at 30 feet per the antennaweb.org, I will have to get a 20 foot mast pipe. Tessco is selling cell tower hardware to businesses. Do you know of a company that would sell an antenna approved non-telescoping mast pipe of that length to a residential customer? http://www.channelmasterstore.com/Antenna_Masts_s/42.htm sells some mast pipes. I would use Ronard 4560 Adjustable Universal Eave Mount for this scenario.

 

On the other hand, considering that pipe length, I am tempted to get a 30 foot mast for a ground mounted installation with two wall mount brackets. What do you think?
 

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Higher is usually better but makes the installation more complex. Most masts need to be supported by brackets or guy wires about every 10 feet. You have strong signals so I would expect getting the antenna 5-10 feet above the roof would work out OK.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Thanks you. We will have to live with the 10 feet above the top wall mount bracket as we do not like the idea of guy wires next to our house. I found a CM 1830 25' Telescoping Steel Antenna Mast as a backup; however this pipe is pretty expensive; what is its benefit over a solid pipe?

I am still looking for a company to sell 30 feet long mast pipe to support the already ordered HD 7698P antenna. I decided to get the stronger antenna to receive better signals after reading many OTA guidance’s. If I will have issues with the reception quality, I will get the CM 7777 pre amp.

 

I keep wondering about the splitters. Would an Acoustic Research PR431 High Performance 2.5 GHZ, 3-way splitter or a Monoprice 110014 PREMIUM 3-Way Coax Cable Splitter work? Or should I get a 4-way splitter and a 75Ω resistor cap? What is the difference between 1GHz and 2 GHz splitters? Wouldn't 2 GHz support a better picture?
 

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Quote:
what is its benefit over a solid pipe?

It telescopes for ease of transportation and installation.
Quote:
I will get the CM 7777 pre amp.

Do NOT order that particular amp, it is best reserved for very deep fringe installations with long or extensive coax runs. Your signals are already strong and either it will overload internally or it will cause your tuners to overload. You should not need ANY amplifiers for your Indy stations.
Quote:
What is the difference between 1GHz and 2 GHz splitters?

1 GHz, but for you, it doesn't matter.
Quote:
Wouldn't 2 GHz support a better picture?

No, since the maximum frequency used for antennas is only 698 MHz.


A simple splitter that costs $5-10 at Lowes, Home Depot, or even Walmart (avoid the cheapest ones) will work fine. Make certain it covers, at a minimum, 50-700 MHz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Thank you ADTech, you cleared up my last confusion about the splitters; well, I hope.

 

Silly question: Can I mount the antenna to the telescoping mast first (after making sure the mast pipe is vertically leveled and secured with the mounts as well as set in the concrete),

and then raise the mast pipe up with the antenna already attached? I was looking for an answer online without a success.
 

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You can mount the antenna first. It should be done on a day with little or no wind. You need to be careful not to raise a section too high and pull the inner mast section out completely. Mark the inner poles a foot or two from the bottom. It is best done with two people, one to raise it and one to secure the locking hardware. Make sure that there is absolutely no chance that if you lose control of it that it could hit a powerline. If you do start to lose control let go so the falling mast doesn't drag you with it.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Thank you ctdish, the power lines are on the opposite side of our house. That side would be actually better for a shorter cable run; but, I can't relocate the power lines :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

HELP PLEASE   I need to buy a 30 feet long telescoping mast pipe ASAP. 

 

Channel Master is out of every pipe except the 17 footer.

Rohn has one, but they want unbelievable $150 for shipping. That is way over our budget.

 

My antenna will be delivered already tomorrow. I am pleasantly surprised, how fast does Solid Signal ships the antennas.

I found one more company selling Eagle telescoping mast pipes. I can't find any reviews on them, nor where they are made.

 

None of our local store sells telescoping mast pipes; only Menards sells 4 feet long mast pipe sections.

Thank you in advance
 

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I use this: http://www.dxengineering.com/search/department/rigid-tubing/product-line/dx-engineering-aluminum-tubing/tubing-wall-thickness-in/0-058-in?N=4294951163%2B4294951160%2B360162%2B4294951158

It's UPS shippable so it's affordable.

You can use two aircraft clamps at each section and get a mast that will not turn in the wind. You could also use muffler clamps but the sections would deform and not be telescope-able.

I would select the smallest section to have a diameter of about 1.25 inches and get larger as you go down. With a UHF antenna I would not leave more than 10 feet unsupported.

John
 

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John,
Quote:
You can use two aircraft clamps at each section


Could you give an example of or link to an example this style of clamp? It's not a description that I'm familiar with.


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

I just put the antenna together, I received it yesterday. The Eagle telescoping mast pipe came in today, I ordered it from the Summit Source. I can’t say I am happy with the craftsmanship of the HD7698P antenna.

 

I don’t really like the plastic blocks. I hope they will not deteriorate too fast in our hot humid and sunny summers. Speaking of the plastic boxes, the longest elements on the front section are semi-loose. They lock into the plastic boxes little and I can move them around with just a little force. The longest three elements on the rear section were rotated wrongly. As I just started unfolding them, I ended up with all three on the same side. It was my mistake as well to trust the system, not paying attention to the fact that these elements have to be out in an opposite direction. Putting them back in proper place was fun, let me tell you. I was afraid I will bend the elements or break the plastic boxes. It all ended up OK though.

 

The worst of all is that one hex nut and bolt are missing. I can’t attach the Boom brace to the top corner reflector, while I have no hardware. I called Solid Signal, but they can’t ship nuts and bolts only. I am not ready to wait for another antenna to come in and to put it together again. Solid Signal will credit me $7 for the issue and I have to go to a hardware store to get it.

 

What I really want to ask, one of the short elements on the front section has two elements instead of one. Is this OK? Please see the pic:

 

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You will receive a $7 credit . A nut and bolt from a local hardware store should be around $.15

The $7.85 left over should cover gas, a burger and order of fries for the inconvenience.
 
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