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@Augerhandle, that looks really good... great idea!

Can you elaborate on "use the 3rd wire for swapping to 2+ on the amp for bridged operation without re-wiring the plugs?"

Yes. With 1+, 1-, and 2+ always available at the plug, I can make the swap on the speaker side of the speakOn jack.


see plan here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...38-llt-sonosub-si-15ht-d4-2.html#post34844177


and result here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...38-llt-sonosub-si-15ht-d4-2.html#post35691226
 

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That's a really nice set-up. I like the look of them! I too am considering a pair of Fusion 8 towers. They seem very reasonably priced.
I have been quite impressed with the fusions. I left my review on DIYSG and I enjoy them more and more as time goes by. I'm not sure you will do better for the money. I landed at ~$1050 for the towers and matching center after finishing supplies. Save yourself some hassle and get the assembled xovers. I was thinking about the tempest 12s but these towers are narrow enough to make placement easier in smaller rooms and need little or no stand to get the horns at ear level. I recommend them 100%, I'm thrilled with mine. I'm in Western SoDak and invite anyone considering these to come audition them. If you have any specific questions about their performance or assembly feel free to PM me.

As a plus they seem to match quite well with the UM subs.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yes. With 1+, 1-, and 2+ always available at the plug, I can make the swap on the speaker side of the speakOn jack.


see plan here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...38-llt-sonosub-si-15ht-d4-2.html#post34844177


and result here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...38-llt-sonosub-si-15ht-d4-2.html#post35691226
Wow that's very impressive. So you have the option of 8 ohm bridged and 2 ohm stereo? Help me understand... why not 4 ohm bridged mode? I see that the sub you chose is dual 4 ohm voice coil. I suppose this differs some to the Ultimax's dual 2 ohm voice coil. So with that said, how should I go about wiring mine? I would like to wire it so that I can add another (sooner than later).

Here are my amp specs:

440W/Channel @ 8 Ohms Stereo
775W/Channel @ 4 Ohms Stereo
1550W/Channel @ 2 Ohms Stereo
1550W @ 8 Ohms Bridged
2400W @ 4 Ohms Bridged
 

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Wow that's very impressive. So you have the option of 8 ohm bridged and 2 ohm stereo? Help me understand... why not 4 ohm bridged mode? I see that the sub you chose is dual 4 ohm voice coil. I suppose this differs some to the Ultimax's dual 2 ohm voice coil. So with that said, how should I go about wiring mine? I would like to wire it so that I can add another (sooner than later).

Here are my amp specs:

440W/Channel @ 8 Ohms Stereo
775W/Channel @ 4 Ohms Stereo
1550W/Channel @ 2 Ohms Stereo
1550W @ 8 Ohms Bridged
2400W @ 4 Ohms Bridged

Oh yeah, you have a dual 2 ohm. You would wire your voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load, so my wiring wouldn't apply to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
A little more progress these past few days. I finally sanded the 2nd coat down with 120 grit and applied the third and final coat of paint. I really really spent a lot of time mixing the 4x to get it a little thinner. I think it turned out ok. I'm not super impressed but am not totally disappointed either.



Lastly, I recieved both the speaker wire and the braided sleeving in the mail. I cut about a 10' length of speaker wire and then put the sleeving on. I followed this
on how to install the speakON connectors. In the end I really liked the way the cable turned out. I probably should have gone with the 5/16" sleeving as it would have been a little easier to put on. But I like the way the 1/4 looks and feels. It is very snug around the speaker wire.

 

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Discussion Starter #28

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Discussion Starter #29
I finished!

Crimped on the disconnects and installed the connector:



I found the perfect solution for the connector screws on Amazon.

I found a bag of 3.1 lbs. of fiber fill at Wal Mart for $8. The enclosure calls for 3 lbs.


Installed the mounting kit which was very risky considering I drilled the holes by hand and not utilizing a makeshift drill press as others have done. The bolts installed without a problem though... relieved!

Put the sub in place, placed amp on top (waiting on a rack solution) and connected AVR to amp via RCA (waiting on RCA to XLR cable). Lastly I ran MCACC (ended up adjusting mains to small, XOver to 100Hz). One thing that was strange is I had to max out gain knob on amp (I guess this is common with pro level amps and consumer equipment). I ended up with the AVR trim at 0dB with the gain knob maxed out. I then bumped up +3dB hot. The mains were adjusted both down -3dB via MCACC auto.

It sounds awesome!!! Very pleased with the results!

Here are the final pics:

 

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Discussion Starter #31
Now do a sub crawl and find out where it sounds best.
Great job!
Michael
OK... I was thinking of putting the sub a little bit behind the chair for the sub crawl. My MLP would theoretically be the chair, however, I'm gonna mostly be up and walking around when listening to music and behind the chair is where I'd walk. What do ya think?

It is where I put the MCACC mic.
 

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......One thing that was strange is I had to max out gain knob on amp (I guess this is common with pro level amps and consumer equipment). I ended up with the AVR trim at 0dB with the gain knob maxed out......
The knob on the Crown amp is not gain. It's an attenuator. All the way to the right, it will allow the full voltage from your sub output to pass into the amplifier stage. Anything less and it attenuates the signal. That's how pro amps work.
 

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The knob on the Crown amp is not gain. It's an attenuator. All the way to the right, it will allow the full voltage from your sub output to pass into the amplifier stage. Anything less and it attenuates the signal. That's how pro amps work.

Actually, according to the manual, it is a gain. It is NOT however, a volume control. Other than that one error, your post is correct.





Next comes the setting of the amp's input attenuators. Another common misconception of these controls is that they somehow control the OUTPUT of the amp and if you don't max them out then you won't get the full power output from the amps. This is not the case at all. These controls simply control the input sensitivity of the amp. The input sensitivity rating specifies how much voltage is required at the input of the amp to get the output to swing to full clean power before clip. Most amps are rated anywhere from 1VRMS to 2VRMS with the attenuators maxed out. Well, most +4dBu mixers with the gains maxed out and all faders at unity usually put out around 9-10VRMS of signal. With the amp's input attenuators maxed out, you're gonna hit clip long before the mixer puts out its full rated output. Once the amp hits clip, you can't go anymore...PERIOD! So in effect you actually end up sacrificing a good 8 7-8 volts of signal strength from your mixer, which results in about an 18dB-20dB loss in dynamic range/headroom, which amounts to much less voltage swing from the amps. This is where the amp's input attenuators come in. By turning them down to the point where the amp will clip at exactly the same time as the mixer/house graphic/crossover, you can now get the full 9.8 volts of signal from your mixer down the signal chain and into the amps, resulting in max dynamic range/headroom and a much larger voltage swing from the amps, which results in a much more powerful, cleaner sounding system with lots of punch and clarity. By dialing down the input attenuators, the amps will STILL put out full power...it will just take a much larger signal to get it to put out full rated power, which is what you want. A big high gain signal results in a signal with much more musical content for the gear to work with, making each piece of gear MUCH more effective, allowing you to get the most performance out of your gear.
http://www.marshallforum.com/workbench/190-what-gain-some-asked-me-so-here-we-go.html
 

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While most people naturally call that a "gain" knob, it's an attenuator no matter what Crown puts in their documentation. I run a pair of XLS 1000s to power my front 3 speakers.I had to attenuate the signal 1 notch on each of the 3 channels I'm using to match the SPL of my receiver's amp.
 

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I didn't get a darn thing done this week. What I did do though was spend an astronomical amount of time debating and researching on which amplifier to settle on. In the end I decided to go with the Crowns older XLS 2500 drivercore series. I ended up placing the order with B&H this morning. There was a pretty big quarrel going on within... I was about to go with their newer lineup of XLS but I just couldn't justify the cost. I'm partial to auto room correction over utilizing DSP. Behringer was another option obviously and I strongly considered that. In the end I think I made a good choice... we will see this weekend.

I also purchased some sleeving for the speaker wire. It should look pretty good! I'll have to share some pictures once completed.

Has anyone mounted their amplifiers in some sort of rack or shelf? I had thought about getting one of these especially considering if I get another amplifier to drive my mains. I could then put my receiver on top of the shelf and have adequate ventilation for the amps. Another option is this one.

Lastly, another crazy thought!!!! I had considered selling the receiver that I was going to use for this new set up. What are thoughts on connecting the amplifier(s) directly to the computers sound card? They make 3.5mm to XLR cables that I think would hold up to the task.

I have two of those Middle Atlantic racks, one is used for my spare bedroom system and the other is used for my home server.





They are well made but probably not worth the premium they charge. They are very minimalistic, a few rails on the front and the back, a box made out of MDF, and a few cleats in the corners (for any size >16 rack units IIRC). There are several accessories available (fans, security doors, etc). If you don't see yourself needing any of those accessories you should just build it yourself, although you could even probably fit a DIY rack with those accessories pretty easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
^^^Ok that all kind of makes sense. With all that being said here are a few impressions so far and questions.

So far I am really "digging" the sound of this sealed sub as compared to my dual V1500s from PSA. This thing HITS incredibly hard. I am incredibly impressed at how effortlessly the XLS 2500 drives this sub with only one channel and in a 4 ohm capacity. This amp will definitely be able to drive another without a problem. As I have mentioned, I have to place the attenuator/gain knob max and as a result MCACC put the sub trim at 0dB. I then bumped up to +3dB. The mains were reduced -3dB (MCACC again). I'm wondering if an RCA to XLR cable would give some more headroom and allow me to lower the gain knob???

I'm thrilled by movie performance. This thing slams and hits with authority. I'm running an optical/digital cable from my PC to the AVR. The AVR is doing a great job and decoding the signal and still allowing the LFE to get mixed into the sub. I set MPC-HC to bitstream DD and DTS to the AVR. So the AVR is getting a DD signal but still knows it is stereo. I "think" that this is allowing the AVR to treat the LFE signal appropriately. With that said, I feel movies have a tremendous edge as compared to music so far. I'll have to do some more experimenting.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
@trevordj, very clean looking set up. I think I will be going with that company for the accessories. I like the look and am not inclined to build anything else but another sub ATM :D

I'll be picking up a pull out shelf for my AVR and likely put my router and modem on another shelf.

I like the server!!! What's inside?
 

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@trevordj, very clean looking set up. I think I will be going with that company for the accessories. I like the look and am not inclined to build anything else but another sub ATM :D

I'll be picking up a pull out shelf for my AVR and likely put my router and modem on another shelf.

I like the server!!! What's inside?
Thanks! That is kinda the conclusion I came to as well. Time is limited and I would rather spend time building speakers than racks. It was worth the few extra bucks for me. I think I got them from BH photo, they had the best price at the time.

The server is pretty sweet. It definitely changed how I use my home audio/video (I pretty much do everything from Kodi running the Emby pluggin now, pretty slick).

It is a used supermicro 16 bay/3 RU case I picked up off ebay for a few hundred dollars, supermicro X10SRL motherboard, Intel Xeon E5-1620 processor, and 64 GB ECC Registered Samsung memory running FreeNAS with Sickbeard/Courchpotato/SABnzbd/Emby plugins. Also acts as a whole home TimeMachine and CIFS backup. For storage I am running 8 x 6TB HGST NAS hardrives in two pools, one 6TB pool for home backup and one 30TB pool (42TB in RAIDZ2) for media hosting. It was a bit of a pain to setup but now it just works without any issues.

Client PCs are simply Intel NUCs running Windows 10. I wanted to like OpenELEC but it was going to take me too long to program the IR functionality. It works out of the box with Windows 10 with no fuss.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks! That is kinda the conclusion I came to as well. Time is limited and I would rather spend time building speakers than racks. It was worth the few extra bucks for me. I think I got them from BH photo, they had the best price at the time.

The server is pretty sweet. It definitely changed how I use my home audio/video (I pretty much do everything from Kodi running the Emby pluggin now, pretty slick).

It is a used supermicro 16 bay/3 RU case I picked up off ebay for a few hundred dollars, supermicro X10SRL motherboard, Intel Xeon E5-1620 processor, and 64 GB ECC Registered Samsung memory running FreeNAS with Sickbeard/Courchpotato/SABnzbd/Emby plugins. Also acts as a whole home TimeMachine and CIFS backup. For storage I am running 8 x 6TB HGST NAS hardrives in two pools, one 6TB pool for home backup and one 30TB pool (42TB in RAIDZ2) for media hosting. It was a bit of a pain to setup but now it just works without any issues.

Client PCs are simply Intel NUCs running Windows 10. I wanted to like OpenELEC but it was going to take me too long to program the IR functionality. It works out of the box with Windows 10 with no fuss.
Very nice! Similar to my setup but on a much larger scale.

I bet that Xeon blows through transcoding effortlessly!

Recently, I transformed my HTPC into a server (not ideal I know but it works great)... I upgraded the case to a fractal design r5. I put an Intel i5-4440 with 16GB mem. I'm up to 3 of the 6TB Red drives and have them pooled with Drivepool (no parity ATM just scanner).

Emby is running on 8.1 pro. Using WMC coupled with MPC-HC. Clients are Roku, AFTV and lots of Web browsers and Win8/10 apps (especially at work ;)

I'd considered Kodi but I'm holding out with high hopes for Emby Theater! This would allow me to get away from WMC (RIP).
 
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