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Very nice! Similar to my setup but on a much larger scale.

I bet that Xeon blows through transcoding effortlessly!

Recently, I transformed my HTPC into a server (not ideal I know but it works great)... I upgraded the case to a fractal design r5. I put an Intel i5-4440 with 16GB mem. I'm up to 3 of the 6TB Red drives and have them pooled with Drivepool (no parity ATM just scanner).

Emby is running on 8.1 pro. Using WMC coupled with MPC-HC. Clients are Roku, AFTV and lots of Web browsers and Win8/10 apps (especially at work ;)

I'd considered Kodi but I'm holding out with high hopes for Emby Theater! This would allow me to get away from WMC (RIP).
Sounds great! One thing is for sure: Emby is awesome, it does everything I need it to do almost effortlessly! The server will transcode all day (literally) without a hiccup. I share my server with my brother and a few friends. Saturday, 4 people were transcoding movies from my server simultaneously and after speaking with all of them, there was no delay or buffering at all. Pretty impressive!

Seriously, you should consider Kodi. With the emby plugin, all your media will integrate into your library and your watch count/resume will work seamlessly between devices. I never used WMC so I don't have that to compare to. I do think it is a shame they nixed it with Windows 10 though :(.
 

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"HELP me Obi Wan, you're my only hope."

I received the Dayton 15" Ultimax driver and box kit today. I didn't realize it did not include ANY hardware for connections. Or directions to connect for that matter. I've been researching/reading forums for a week now and know most of what to do, but need advice and help for the rest.

My (relevant) background:
-51 years old
-Previous 7 years retail AV sales (Hi-Fi Buys in Atlanta, Pyramid Audio in Anchorage)
-Bad-Fair soldering skills
-Good background with standard/high end AV equipment but no experience with pro-audio equipment (more familiar with 5-way binding posts and RCA connectors than balanced and Speakon)
-Prefer beer to wine

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is my equipment and situation:

current system (relevant only):
- Onkyo TX-NR3007 (has all necessary main outs for external amps)
-Def Tech BP2004 mains (built-in powered subs)
-Def Tech CLR 2300 center (built-in powered sub)
-Def Tech rears
-Small pair Monitor Audio rears as "front wide"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Future (next week) system:
-Same Onkyo receiver as processor, center amp, and surround amps

-Emerald Physics CS2 mains http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue37/emerald_physics.htm
***these are VERY unique and use a Behringer Ultra Drive Pro DCX24 for the crossover http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DCX2496/
***yes, I realize the center won't match, but that is for later

-Rotel RMB 1075 5-channel amp (to drive the Emerald Physics) http://www.rotel.com/NA/products/ProductDetails.htm?Id=3&Tab=2&Pic=1

-Dayton 15" Ultimax sub/box https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-15-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-bundle--300-7097

-Crown XLS1500 amp (to drive the sub) http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/crown-xls1500-drivecore-series-power-amp

------------------------------------------------

What I THINK I know:
-Since the Behringer has balanced outputs and the Crown XLS1500 has balanced inputs, I think that is a no-brainer. Any suggestions on cable choice or are all balanced pretty much the same?

-I would prefer to use 5-way binding posts instead of Speakeron connectorsfor the Crown to sub connection. Binding post recommendations?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What I don't know and NEED to know (PE Tech was NO help, thus, I am here)
-Given the Crown XLS1500 (please, no recommendations to switch to another amp), how should I connect the 2 driver motors to the box inputs?

My limited brain tells me to stay at 4ohms total load to the Crown. Does this mean I should run 2 separate pairs out from the driver to 4 5-way binding posts (running each voice coil off each of the two crown channels)?
(insert DETAILED recommendations/options/reasons here)

How do I cut/attach the binding posts to the back of the sub box? The printed box instructions don't mention this.

Should I add damping material inside the box? If so, which and how much?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


I have surely left things out, but the main points are:
-What else do I need to buy? (Don't worry about paint or veneer)
-How should I connect the driver to the box outputs?
-How should I connect the speaker wires from the Crown to the sub (stereo, bridged, 2 ohm, 4 ohm...)?



My head hurts.:eek:




 

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"HELP me Obi Wan, you're my only hope."

I received the Dayton 15" Ultimax driver and box kit today. I didn't realize it did not include ANY hardware for connections. Or directions to connect for that matter. I've been researching/reading forums for a week now and know most of what to do, but need advice and help for the rest.

My (relevant) background:
-51 years old
-Previous 7 years retail AV sales (Hi-Fi Buys in Atlanta, Pyramid Audio in Anchorage)
-Bad-Fair soldering skills
-Good background with standard/high end AV equipment but no experience with pro-audio equipment (more familiar with 5-way binding posts and RCA connectors than balanced and Speakon)
-Prefer beer to wine

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is my equipment and situation:

current system (relevant only):
- Onkyo TX-NR3007 (has all necessary main outs for external amps)
-Def Tech BP2004 mains (built-in powered subs)
-Def Tech CLR 2300 center (built-in powered sub)
-Def Tech rears
-Small pair Monitor Audio rears as "front wide"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Future (next week) system:
-Same Onkyo receiver as processor, center amp, and surround amps

-Emerald Physics CS2 mains http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue37/emerald_physics.htm
***these are VERY unique and use a Behringer Ultra Drive Pro DCX24 for the crossover http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DCX2496/
***yes, I realize the center won't match, but that is for later

-Rotel RMB 1075 5-channel amp (to drive the Emerald Physics) http://www.rotel.com/NA/products/ProductDetails.htm?Id=3&Tab=2&Pic=1

-Dayton 15" Ultimax sub/box https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-15-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-bundle--300-7097

-Crown XLS1500 amp (to drive the sub) http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/crown-xls1500-drivecore-series-power-amp

------------------------------------------------

What I THINK I know:
-Since the Behringer has balanced outputs and the Crown XLS1500 has balanced inputs, I think that is a no-brainer. Any suggestions on cable choice or are all balanced pretty much the same?

-I would prefer to use 5-way binding posts instead of Speakeron connectorsfor the Crown to sub connection. Binding post recommendations?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What I don't know and NEED to know (PE Tech was NO help, thus, I am here)
-Given the Crown XLS1500 (please, no recommendations to switch to another amp), how should I connect the 2 driver motors to the box inputs?

My limited brain tells me to stay at 4ohms total load to the Crown. Does this mean I should run 2 separate pairs out from the driver to 4 5-way binding posts (running each voice coil off each of the two crown channels)?
(insert DETAILED recommendations/options/reasons here)

How do I cut/attach the binding posts to the back of the sub box? The printed box instructions don't mention this.

Should I add damping material inside the box? If so, which and how much?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


I have surely left things out, but the main points are:
-What else do I need to buy? (Don't worry about paint or veneer)
-How should I connect the driver to the box outputs?
-How should I connect the speaker wires from the Crown to the sub (stereo, bridged, 2 ohm, 4 ohm...)?



My head hurts.:eek:




Well the kit is simply a flatpack box and driver. You need to supply everything else. You could use binding posts like this http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpa-38g-hd-binding-post-pair-gold--091-1245 and use a drill with a 1/4" bit. I used speakon, they're just better, especially if you're going to bridge the amp (I would in your case). Wire your two voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load. You can solder wire in place if you want, the binding posts can take crimp connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
"HELP me Obi Wan, you're my only hope."
As Lovinthehd suggested... I would definitely go balanced from the amplifier to the sub enclosure.

Please take the time to read the previous posts in this thread. I truly tried to do my best at answering all the questions that you posed as well as providing some photos to help anybody else out that takes up this project.

- You'll need to invest in some clamps. I would highly recommend you stop by harbor freight and buy as many as you can afford. I actually borrowed 6 from a friend who was a huge wood worker. I bought 6 myself. There are a few DIY sub threads that illustrate the gluing and clamping process better than I did. My biggest advice is to take your time. Glue each piece together one at a time and make sure you have the edges lined up perfectly before setting the clamp. I found that the glue that I used dried quickly... but it holds like nothing else.

- Pick a finish... maybe since this is your first sub you should do something easy as I have done. There are other options besides the Rustoleum 4x. You can dry the duratex (I was tempted). The gluing and finishing is going to occupy most of your time in this build. Probably can focus on those two tasks first before moving on.

- Need to decide definitively if you want speakON or binding posts. There are plenty of pros to a speakON connector and many many cons to a binding post. I'm not going to list them all here... but you can easily find the answer you are looking for in a quick search. The speakON hole is 15/16" and you'll need a bit for that. It fit like a dream and was super easy to install. The cable I built was equally as easy. I illustrated all that and I think I included links to purchase those items if you are interested in the same. I wouldn't have done things differently at this point in regards to that.

- I don't think you can wire a 2 ohm load with a single driver. I certainly may be wrong (it is late here and I had a few glasses of wine :) Check out this link for more info on wiring. I think your best and safest bet is going to be 4 ohms bridged. The manual for your amp will tell you how to wire the speakON connector appropriately for this. The UM can be wired using the aforementioned link.

I think I got most of the questions. If there are any more don't hesitate to ask.

EDIT: Damping material. If you got the 15" kit (I think you did...) then you need 3 lbs polyfill. Wal Mart is the best place for this. They had a 3 lbs bag in the crafts section for under $10.
 

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As Lovinthehd suggested... I would definitely go balanced from the amplifier to the sub enclosure.

Please take the time to read the previous posts in this thread. I truly tried to do my best at answering all the questions that you posed as well as providing some photos to help anybody else out that takes up this project.

- You'll need to invest in some clamps. I would highly recommend you stop by harbor freight and buy as many as you can afford. I actually borrowed 6 from a friend who was a huge wood worker. I bought 6 myself. There are a few DIY sub threads that illustrate the gluing and clamping process better than I did. My biggest advice is to take your time. Glue each piece together one at a time and make sure you have the edges lined up perfectly before setting the clamp. I found that the glue that I used dried quickly... but it holds like nothing else.

- Pick a finish... maybe since this is your first sub you should do something easy as I have done. There are other options besides the Rustoleum 4x. You can dry the duratex (I was tempted). The gluing and finishing is going to occupy most of your time in this build. Probably can focus on those two tasks first before moving on.

- Need to decide definitively if you want speakON or binding posts. There are plenty of pros to a speakON connector and many many cons to a binding post. I'm not going to list them all here... but you can easily find the answer you are looking for in a quick search. The speakON hole is 15/16" and you'll need a bit for that. It fit like a dream and was super easy to install. The cable I built was equally as easy. I illustrated all that and I think I included links to purchase those items if you are interested in the same. I wouldn't have done things differently at this point in regards to that.

- I don't think you can wire a 2 ohm load with a single driver. I certainly may be wrong (it is late here and I had a few glasses of wine :) Check out this link for more info on wiring. I think your best and safest bet is going to be 4 ohms bridged. The manual for your amp will tell you how to wire the speakON connector appropriately for this. The UM can be wired using the aforementioned link.

I think I got most of the questions. If there are any more don't hesitate to ask.

EDIT: Damping material. If you got the 15" kit (I think you did...) then you need 3 lbs polyfill. Wal Mart is the best place for this. They had a 3 lbs bag in the crafts section for under $10.
I suggested speakon and that is not a balanced connector....it's a speaker cable. :)
 

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OK, Speakon it is.


Let's all get INSIDE the box and concentrate on the driver to box wiring. I THINK I'm going to wire it in series as JL describes below, so I will have a 4 ohm load to the Crown XLS1500.


1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
DVC Series 1
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms



1) Regarding wiring the driver to the box, any recommendations on which specific wire to use? I planned on using OFC 12g.

2) Any particular speakon output box?

3) My inclination would be to use spades on the speaker terminals and crimp on for the speakon box.

4) Any SPECIFIC speakon terminal box brand or weblink?

5) I don't have any inclination to make my own speakon cables, so pre-made suggestions only, please. Brand preferences or weblink?

In the absence of specific suggestions, I usually just go to PE and look for the item with the most reviews, read them, and decide from there. One of the benefits of this forum is I can simply let all those who went before tell me what works best. The zip ties on the driver screw holes, for instance is a good idea.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I suggested speakon and that is not a balanced connector....it's a speaker cable. :)
Yes I stand corrected... speakON is unbalanced :)

1) Regarding wiring the driver to the box, any recommendations on which specific wire to use? I planned on using OFC 12g.
I shared a link on what wire I used on page 1... here it is again. 12 gauge wire will not work with the female disconnects I shared on post #1 of this thread. :D

2) Any particular speakon output box?
Check post #1 my recommendation is still the same today.

3) My inclination would be to use spades on the speaker terminals and crimp on for the speakon box.
I'm not sure what spades are... I used female disconnects. You can also solder the speaker wire.

4) Any SPECIFIC speakon terminal box brand or weblink?
Post #1 :D

5) I don't have any inclination to make my own speakon cables, so pre-made suggestions only, please. Brand preferences or weblink?
I would make my own... I'm not sure if you can take the pre-made ones apart o wire for bridge mode (see page 4 of the XLS Series Operation Manual). Besides, you already will have 25 feet of speaker cable if you buy the Monoprice speaker cable recommended. Why not use 15 feet of it for a cable and buy two connectors (post #1 )? It takes 5 minutes to make a speaker cable with speakON connectors. It takes about 20 minutes if you want to put a sleeve on it like I did (definitely not required).
 

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It's not that building the sub is difficult, it's just that I prefer to do it right the first time. Ask, understand, build.

It takes a minimum of 4 weeks to brew beer. This batch is a stout with Count Chocula added. I'll call it "Down For the Count Stout". Attached is a picture of my kegerator. Until then, I'll drink other people's brew.
 

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This batch is a stout with Count Chocula added. I'll call it "Down For the Count Stout". Attached is a picture of my kegerator. Until then, I'll drink other people's brew.
I have a good friend that just got done with this same Stout recipe. It's just finishing up, can't wait to try it.
 

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I'm waiting for the Count to hit the shelves. It's only sold near Halloween. Amazon sellers caught on and upped the price to about $10/box when it's not in stores. Maybe I'll buy all the boxes and sell them online, too. I might be able to pay for the sub with the profit!

Step 2 finished.
 

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