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Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax Parts express Package
Hey guys,
SHORT STORY: im getting a new sub, im deciding between 2 SVS SB3000 OR 1 SVS SB 16 ULTRA, OR 2 Ultimax 18" kits....
Maybe any of you has tested the Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax build from the package that is being sold by parts express?
I was wondering how much is the PPO for this SUB build? have you tested? cant find any comparison with a brand SUB, is there any? if you could compare it with a Brand Sub, which one you would choose to compare it to?
Website Described specs:
UM18-22 Subwoofer Specifications: • Power handling: 1,000 watts RMS/2,000 watts max • Le: 2.22 mH • Impedance: 4 ohms (2 ohms/coil) • Re: 4.36 ohms • Frequency range: 18 to 1,000 Hz • Fs: 19.5 Hz • SPL: 88 dB 2.83V/1m • Vas 7.49 cu. ft. • Qms: 3.82 • Qes: 0.62 • Qts: 0.53 • Xmax: 22 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 18.24", Cutout: 16.75", Depth: 9".
Note: All parameters derived with voice coils wired in series.
SPA1200DSP Amplifier Specifications: • Power output: 1,200 watts RMS into 4 ohms, THD+N
SHORT STORY: im getting a new sub, im deciding between 2 SVS SB3000 OR 1 SVS SB 16 ULTRA, OR 2 Ultimax 18" kits....
Maybe any of you has tested the Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax build from the package that is being sold by parts express?
I was wondering how much is the PPO for this SUB build? have you tested? cant find any comparison with a brand SUB, is there any? if you could compare it with a Brand Sub, which one you would choose to compare it to?
Website Described specs:
UM18-22 Subwoofer Specifications: • Power handling: 1,000 watts RMS/2,000 watts max • Le: 2.22 mH • Impedance: 4 ohms (2 ohms/coil) • Re: 4.36 ohms • Frequency range: 18 to 1,000 Hz • Fs: 19.5 Hz • SPL: 88 dB 2.83V/1m • Vas 7.49 cu. ft. • Qms: 3.82 • Qes: 0.62 • Qts: 0.53 • Xmax: 22 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 18.24", Cutout: 16.75", Depth: 9".
Note: All parameters derived with voice coils wired in series.
SPA1200DSP Amplifier Specifications: • Power output: 1,200 watts RMS into 4 ohms, THD+N
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
I purchased the UM18 and SPA1200DSP kit. I went through three amps before I called it quits and requested a refund from Dayton. The SPA1200DSP amp was updated between my second and third but the third one blew some caps and was toast. Hopefully they have resolved these issues since the bundle was unavailable for so long.
The UM18 and 4cft cab are a fantastic combo though.
The UM18 and 4cft cab are a fantastic combo though.
Get the Ultimax and a Inuke 6000D to power them, you'll crush the svs
I agree, the 6000DSP offers much more over the plate amp.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That box is small for a UM18, that is probably why the amp might be failing, too much power needed. When you put the UM18 in WinIsd it wants an 11 cubic foot box.
4cu/f isn’t too small for a UM18, PE recommends it as it also prevents over excursion.
The plate amp from them is known for having QC issues though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The plate amp from them is known for having QC issues though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
4 cu ft is decent for a UM18, I wouldn't think amp failure issues would be related to that at all, the UM18 is a super easy load to drive. Really closer to a 6 ohm load than 4ohms.That box is small for a UM18, that is probably why the amp might be failing, too much power needed. When you put the UM18 in WinIsd it wants an 11 cubic foot box.
Yes, the smaller the box the more power it needs for higher excursion. It all depends on listening habits and the room it is in. The one tested at DB was a 6.1 cubic foot box.
The amp having failures is one thing, but having an amp with failure problems driving more power than intended can lead to quicker problems for the amp. It takes 1500 watts to reach x-max in a 4 cubic foot box and 2500 watts for 28 mm which we know the UM18 can do. Again, a faulty 1200 watt amp would not be up to the task in this box depending on usage of course. I am not sure how much power one can feed the UM without heating issues as well.
The amp having failures is one thing, but having an amp with failure problems driving more power than intended can lead to quicker problems for the amp. It takes 1500 watts to reach x-max in a 4 cubic foot box and 2500 watts for 28 mm which we know the UM18 can do. Again, a faulty 1200 watt amp would not be up to the task in this box depending on usage of course. I am not sure how much power one can feed the UM without heating issues as well.
if you go the diy route, swapping one UM18-22 with a PA460 will save you ~$220 and could possibly be a more enjoyable setup
(I'd post the parts express link but I'm below the required post count for that, but its on sale for 10% off atm)
Its the setup I've got for my home theater and im really happy with it. The ultimax does awesome down low and I find the PA460 does really well to fill in the midbass region where the ultimax lacks. If these are your only subs, it will also be much more enjoyable when listening to music
you can find info on the PA460 drivers by searching for VBSS. Its an awesome driver and from what I've seen, more people seem to have one of these than not
(I'd post the parts express link but I'm below the required post count for that, but its on sale for 10% off atm)
Its the setup I've got for my home theater and im really happy with it. The ultimax does awesome down low and I find the PA460 does really well to fill in the midbass region where the ultimax lacks. If these are your only subs, it will also be much more enjoyable when listening to music
you can find info on the PA460 drivers by searching for VBSS. Its an awesome driver and from what I've seen, more people seem to have one of these than not
I believe the 6.1 cft was external and approximately 4.2 CFT internal for the databass test which is pretty close to the PE/Donovo enclosure.Yes, the smaller the box the more power it needs for higher excursion. It all depends on listening habits and the room it is in. The one tested at DB was a 6.1 cubic foot box.
If you have to buy something, skip the SVS hype train and grab something from JTR, PSA, or Rhythmic. All three will walk over the SVS like nothing.
If using the 4 cubic foot box I would rather have the Inuke3000dsp and bridge it.I believe the 6.1 cft was external and approximately 4.2 CFT internal for the databass test which is pretty close to the PE/Donovo enclosure.
As others have said, the plate amp isn't a good choice. An inuke is not only a better choice, it also simplifies building the subwoofer, and makes changing the amplification out easier when/if something goes wrong.I purchased the UM18 and SPA1200DSP kit. I went through three amps before I called it quits and requested a refund from Dayton. The SPA1200DSP amp was updated between my second and third but the third one blew some caps and was toast. Hopefully they have resolved these issues since the bundle was unavailable for so long.
The UM18 and 4cft cab are a fantastic combo though.
I know some have said it's not the "ideal" box size, but it will get the job done, and much better than the SVS.
For me personally, moving from a Klipsch sub to DIY, it's just a different class all together. For me personally, as a tech/pc nerd, it's like updating from an HDD to SSD, or some other more obscure pc related analogies.
For what SVS charges, or any other company, I'd rather just hire a day worker for the assembly of a DIY sub....
Hi:
The DIY route is very appealing and rewarding, but I have never had the VOW effect that everybody talks about.
If I were me I would buy commercial used ones, that is what I do now, most of the times I buy them with a couple of months but almost half the price and whenever I decide to change I do not loose a lot of money.
Everytime that I try to sell one of my DIY I loose a lot of money.
Performance wise there are difference but I have HSU, XTZ, SVS and they all have their own good things going
The DIY route is very appealing and rewarding, but I have never had the VOW effect that everybody talks about.
If I were me I would buy commercial used ones, that is what I do now, most of the times I buy them with a couple of months but almost half the price and whenever I decide to change I do not loose a lot of money.
Everytime that I try to sell one of my DIY I loose a lot of money.
Performance wise there are difference but I have HSU, XTZ, SVS and they all have their own good things going
Speakers shouldn't be something your monetarily regarding as a bad investment as all speakers are a bad investment. Using your statement if your loosing so much selling DIY speakers wouldn't buying used DIY speakers also yield the greatest cost savings?Hi:
The DIY route is very appealing and rewarding, but I have never had the VOW effect that everybody talks about.
If I were me I would buy commercial used ones, that is what I do now, most of the times I buy them with a couple of months but almost half the price and whenever I decide to change I do not loose a lot of money.
Everytime that I try to sell one of my DIY I loose a lot of money.
Performance wise there are difference but I have HSU, XTZ, SVS and they all have their own good things going
Premade speakers would have a more consistence resale value as they are widely available in production and cost. Vs DIY speakers that potentially have many variables in quality and consistency. Not to mention the overall cost of DIY products is generally less than their pre-made counterparts. The attraction to DIY for most people here is two fold 1. cost savings for the output and sq and 2. Gratification and enjoyment of the build. Saving money while also having the feeling that
you made something for me is a feeling of accomplishment to say "I made these".
This is the DIY forum, not a buy commercial one...Hi:
The DIY route is very appealing and rewarding, but I have never had the VOW effect that everybody talks about.
if I were me I would buy commercial used ones, that is what I do now, most of the times I buy them with a couple of months but almost half the price and whenever I decide to change I do not loose a lot of money.
Everytime that I try to sell one of my DIY I loose a lot of money.
Performance wise there are difference but I have HSU, XTZ, SVS and they all have their own good things going
I concur. I've tried using a Inuke3000DSP with two UM15's in 3 cft sealed boxes and there just isn't enough juice and they sounded a bit thin. Bridged is fine for one UM15 or 18 but the Inuke/NX6000 handles two well.If using the 4 cubic foot box I would rather have the Inuke3000dsp and bridge it.
This is the DIY forum, not a buy commercial one...
This is a forum where people asks for opinion, people gives them and you either take them into consideration or not.
If you see my profile pic my main speakers are DIY so I know what I am talking about plus I have 2 Full Marty and several sealed sw boxes.
Speakers shouldn't be something your monetarily regarding as a bad investment as all speakers are a bad investment. Using your statement if your loosing so much selling DIY speakers wouldn't buying used DIY speakers also yield the greatest cost savings?
Premade speakers would have a more consistence resale value as they are widely available in production and cost. Vs DIY speakers that potentially have many variables in quality and consistency. Not to mention the overall cost of DIY products is generally less than their pre-made counterparts. The attraction to DIY for most people here is two fold 1. cost savings for the output and sq and 2. Gratification and enjoyment of the build. Saving money while also having the feeling that
you made something for me is a feeling of accomplishment to say "I made these".
There is no doubt that when you listen to something that you made the reward is even greater than commercial one, I do it with mine and they were made by a friend of mine.
There are too many variables on a decission making like this one and to each its own.
I, one again, am thinking about building some midbass modules, but neither option is bad, commercial or DIY. Both are valid
Regards,
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
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