[TomesoR]

I have the DCM TimeFrame TF600 speakers and I'm not getting anything out of the tweeters on one speaker.. I checked continuity on the light bulb and it's okay, but the large barrel capacitor does not have continuity, so I'm assuming that's my problem.

The capacitor is labeled 15uF 50v but I don't seem to find any that are rated 50v, only 100v. Can someone tell me if the PE Part # 027-344 do the trick? It has the same approximate physical size, so it should fit.

Specs:
Overview
These high quality bi-polar (non-polarized) electrolytic capacitors are perfect for your next crossover design. They feature a 5% dissipation factor and are rated at 100V which are effective to approximately 200 watts.


Highlights

• 15 microfarad value
• 13 mm diameter x 27 mm long
• 5% dissipation factor and 100 VDC working voltage

Thank you for helping me get this right!


Tom

 

[Doctor Morbius]

Yes, the PE cap you've mentioned should to the trick, provided that's what is causing the tweeter to not function. Going from 50V to 100V won't hurt a thing.

My advice is to buy two of the PE caps and replace the originals in both crossovers.

 

[TomesoR]

thank you!

Yes, the PE cap you've mentioned should to the trick, provided that's what is causing the tweeter to not function. Going from 50V to 100V won't hurt a thing.

My advice is to buy two of the PE caps and replace the originals in both crossovers.

Thank you, Doctor! Ordered two as suggested, and will update the thread once I install and test.

 

[TomesoR]

Additional Problems - advice needed

Well, I replaced the capacitor and fired it up only to find that the tweeters still don't work. So, as I should have done in the first place, I took the board off and checked the remaining components. Sure enough there are 4 components that do not have continuity - they are shown in the attachment with the arrows. I'm not sure what these are, so I don't know what to look for as replacements. Any advice would be appreciated. They are marked 155k / 100v and 305k / 100v.

Also, the new capacitor I soldered in blew immediately, which I assume has to do with the other faulty components.

Thank you in advance for your help solving this.

Tom

 

[erwinsto]

Well, I replaced the capacitor and fired it up only to find that the tweeters still don't work. So, as I should have done in the first place, I took the board off and checked the remaining components. Sure enough there are 4 components that do not have continuity - they are shown in the attachment with the arrows. I'm not sure what these are, so I don't know what to look for as replacements. Any advice would be appreciated. They are marked 155k / 100v and 305k / 100v.

Also, the new capacitor I soldered in blew immediately, which I assume has to do with the other faulty components.

Thank you in advance for your help solving this.

Tom

Did you ever solve your issue? I have the same speakers and am interested to know if you replaced them with something newer that you like better.

 

[TomesoR]

Did you ever solve your issue? I have the same speakers and am interested to know if you replaced them with something newer that you like better.

I never did get a response on this, and haven't had time to do more research. There's an old shop here in Chicago called 20th Century Audio. The old guy there can probably help me, but I haven't had time to go over there. When I figure it out, I will post here.

If anyone can help in the meantime, I would appreciate it.

Thank you!