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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my new little 1031Q arrives today. It was a dreaded ebay "as-is" auction, so I wasn't expecting too much from it. Well, lucky for me the thing powers up and I can get it to display the test grid on the red and green, but I get nothing out of the blue.


So great. I'm thinking the blue tube is shot.


BUT, when I switch it off, the test grid flashes on the blue tube for a split second (right before all three turn off). That's followed by a flash from all three a second later. The post-turnoff flash seems to be a little quirk in this projector I read about at the eboyztoyz site, so I'm not worried about it. I just think that it's an encouraging sign that I can get anything out of the blue tube. Or I could be completely wrong and any tube will flash when it's turned off. That leads us to the Big Question.


Is my blue tube bad?


I removed the lens assembly and the phosphors look mint on all three. I couldn't see wear on any of them. The blue tube flashing on shutdown gives me some hope that maybe it's only some board/cap that's bad.


Any thoughts?
 

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Did you try turning the blue G2 setting up?


If there is no effect from the G2 then swap the CRT neck board - move the green to blue and the blue to green. If the problem moves with the board then the CRT is fine and you have some other problem. If the problem stays with the blue when you move the neck board then the CRT is gone...


Hope this helps- Keep us posted.



--Kieth
 

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Hmmm..... before you start swapping, make sure everything is properly seated and plugged in after shipping. Those tubes don't just die, usually. Especially since you can see the pattern and a flash.

It could be the G2. SLOWLY turn up the blue G2, and see what you get. They are touchy, and can get knocked out. If all that fails, then swap the neck boards, and finally the drive board behind the neck board.


Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So swap the neck boards on the blue and green? You mean the board closest to the tubes (without a heat sink - labeled CA)? They have a big black wire that's soldered on them. I can swap it, it will just be a pain and want to make sure.


The CA boards (the boards in the back, away from the tubes and with the heatsink) are different. They blue board has 2 unique connectors the green one doesn't, and also the green board has 1 unique connector the blue doesn't. That still leaves 4 that they have in common, though. Do I want to swap the CA (only connecting the plugs I can) first, then try the CB boards? Or both? The way Marc's post was worded I'm not sure if he means try swapping the neck boards (CA) first, then try also swapping the drive board (CB) if that fails?



The G2 had no effect... I didn't crank it all the way though. I didn't think it would be quite this much of a hassle to swap boards, so I'll put things back together real quick and play with the G2 a bit more while I wait for someone who knows what they're doing to share some more.


Thanks a lot so far. I'm glad I have all day to tinker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Success!!!!


It was the G2. I just had to turn it quite a bit more.


That's what I get for being shy about it. I've always read how sensitive they are, so I didn't want to turn it too much.


Thanks SO much. Now I go make myself a DB25 connector....
 

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Cool :)


Marc
 
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