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Discussion Starter #21

Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice /forum/post/21813846


I found hat channel in stock at HD. It was next to the drywall material. They only carried 10' sections instead of 12' sections but I plan to make it work. Also were considerably cheaper than the special order 12' pieces at local Menards (less than 1/2 the price). Walked out with 30 pieces for less than $60.



On the screen, I too am planning to use the Seymour XD material but I think I am going to get the frame and material from Jamestown home theater. They had a pretty competitive price for the kit. Probably half the cost of the larger name companies.

My kind of shopper! Guess I'll do some walk-ins instead of Internet searches. Luckily Lowes, HD and Menards are all close together. Thanks!
 

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I personally had no luck finding hat channel at my local Lowes or home depot. I ended up calling a local building supply warehouse and they knew exactly what I was talking about. They called it "metal drywall furring channel". I think it was about $7 for a 12 foot piece.


Also make sure that it is 25 gauge and has a hemmed edge for the clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
If I read the forum rules correctly, I am obligated to post this next pic.



Ordered Tuesday, and delivered Thursday. If anyone doesn't know by now, Ted and John at the Soundproofing Company are fantastic!

I'm a week or so away from using the GG, but got to play with the putty pads last night. That allowed me to finish insulating the walls. Tonight I start the ceiling insulation. Can't wait for this part to be done...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR /forum/post/21802252


Thanks Nick. The journey is definitely fun now that there are signs of progress. Just need to keep moving forward.




Good to hear you didn't have issues with your return. I have some extra foil tape, so I may just make sure it is sealed up really good and put some extra insulation there.


I decided not to worry about the sink cleanout. I have the location marked if it needs attention in the future. I really don't think it will be a problem since the sink is 2 feet away (knocking on wood and rubbing a rabbit's foot).




Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be doing a lot of research on the projectors and will let you know if I run into any questions. I am planning on a Seymour AV Center Stage XD screen.

Another point to consider, if it is going to be fall before you are ready, wait for the new models to come out.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 /forum/post/21816927


Another point to consider, if it is going to be fall before you are ready, wait for the new models to come out.

Is that normally early or late fall?
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Sitting here having a nice pale ale homebrew and thought I should post an update. I am done with insulation (until I need to do more insulation). Next step is the front soffit (which will need insulation, dangit!!), and then I can put the clips and channel up and be ready for drywall.

Screenwall


Backwall


Front Soffit Area


Ordered the door this week. Masonite Safe'n Sound solid core 1-3/4" thick, 80"x36". I will make the jambs myself, so just ordered the slab. Will be here by April 8. Also have a drywall lift coming this weekend from a friend who just finished his basement. Saved him from putting it on Craigslist and me from buying one off of Craigslist...
 

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Looking good!
 

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Things are looking good! Keep up the pace, and you'll make it for sure.


I have a question for you. I noticed in your plans the angled corners in the rear of the room. Then I see in your most recent pictures that only one of the corners "has to" be that way. Obviously symmetry dictates the other match - no argument there. And surely there is something important behind the one required cut corner. The question I have is did you get any notes or an impression from The Erskine Group about the impact of this shape on your acoustic design? I have an opportunity to extend the length of my room in the center, and I'm trying to weigh the costs and benefits.

 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Quote:Originally Posted by HopefulFred

Things are looking good! Keep up the pace, and you'll make it for sure.

I have a question for you. I noticed in your plans the angled corners in the rear of the room. Then I see in your most recent pictures that only one of the corners "has to" be that way. Obviously symmetry dictates the other match - no argument there. And surely there is something important behind the one required cut corner. The question I have is did you get any notes or an impression from The Erskine Group about the impact of this shape on your acoustic design? I have an opportunity to extend the length of my room in the center, and I'm trying to weigh the costs and benefits.




Hey Fred. The wet bar on the other side of the wall dictated the one corner, and the other corner was angled to match. There really wasn't an explanation given by DE, and to be honest I didn't think to ask what impact those corners would have. I'm sure there is some acoustical explanation as to how it will affect the room, just don't know what it would be. Maybe someone else can chime in here.
 

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Looking good. Did you find the nailor bar diffusers? Are those the ones you're going with?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks. It's good to see progress.


My local HVAC guys found them and are getting a quote. I will wait to see what they come in at before making a decision. After seeing what damelon and Big did with the grills in damelon's soffits, I may go that route. All depends on the $ for the Nailors...
 

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Discussion Starter #33
OK, so I'm a bit frustrated today. The plan was to get the front soffit framed in, get the hat channel from Menards and get the clips and channel up today. So I get to Menards and find the channel. Looks like what I need, so I load up the cart. Hmmm, better check the width first. It's 2-3/4" instead of 2-1/2". Crap. The manual says DO NOT USE 2-3/4" WIDE CHANNEL. 2-3/4" x 7/8" .


So I explore a little more, and they have 2-1/2" wide, but the "hat" is only 1/2" high instead of 7/8". 2-1/2" x 1/2" . I brought one of them home, and it looks like it would work. Just would need to use shorter screws when attaching the drywall so I don't accidentally hit a stud.


Any thoughts on using the shorter "hat", or do you think it will be fine?
 

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I'm no expert, but it seems to me that the 1/2" hat would be fine. You would have to use a pretty long screw to get through the drywall plus the 1/2" profile of the hat and then on into the clip or the stud.


Just my 2 cents worth...
 

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I am not 100% sure on this but I agree with Nick. If it is the correct width and the metal is the correct thickness then I'd think you'd be fine. I was not aware that there was a 1/2" version. I'd send Ted White a quick pm just to be sure though. You wouldn't want to get everything up only to realize that the channel is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Got the clips up on 4 of the 5 walls (yes, I'm counting the little angle as a wall), and just have one wall and the ceiling left. I bought a lazer level to help with marking the locations, and that helps a lot. Drywall lift was also delivered this weekend. That thing is bigger than I thought, and I can't wait to put it to use!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I heard back from Ted, and the 1/2" high channel is a no go. Out of spec, and no data to tell if it would work correctly. On the upside, the 2-3/4" wide channel can be used! According to Ted, that is now the standard that almost all of the manufacturers are using. More importantly, the clip manufacturers have all given the OK for 2-3/4" channel to be used in their clips. I know where I'm headed over lunch today...
 

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Lowes or Home Depot has a 4" by 14" steel louvered floor register (non-shutterable) for only like $2 a pop. I bought several white ones and painted them black.
 
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