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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As of this writing in 2017, it has been two years since we sold the original Deadwood theater (and the house it lived in). And now, Deadwood II lives: a smaller house with a larger theater -- priorities seem about right!

The theater is operational, using all the same kit from the previous, minus the PJ, in-wall surrounds, and the AV7702 Atmos processor which I sold at the time. The 4 Tannoy's are indeed here, on the ceiling, awaiting an Atmos processor yet to be decided. [ETA: Anthem processor installed for Atmos and DTS:X 7.1.4 processing. Link] This ceiling is 2' higher than before, making it easier to hide speakers. Key improvements in the new theater:
1) More space. Room is wider, longer, and taller.
2) Wider screen.
3) A separate “projection booth” gives easy access to the equipment rack and PJ, and removes their noise and heat.
4) Improved isolation from the rest of the house. (Separate wing.)
5) Improved door seals and latch.
6) Improved window plugs.
7) Triple layered walls: original 1/2" sheetrock, 1/2" OSB, 5/8" sheetrock, Green Glue.

The room is quieter from outside noise and virtually inaudible in the house -- can play any time of day or night. Happy wife!









The equipment room. Easy access to all the business ends of the gear and wiring. That's another window plug at the back.









Physical
Room Dims

19.4' L, 17' W, 10' H (3300 cuft)

1’ riser, full width, 7’ deep
Screen mounted 2’ from front wall, 28" above floor

Eyes to screen front row: 115” (9.6’) (53° view angle)
rear row: 176” (14.8’) (36° view angle)
Front row eyes viewing angle to top of screen, 19°

Seating
Pottery Barn
Turner Series, Legacy Dark Caramel
4 armchairs, 1 loveseat, 2 ottomans

Carpet/Pad
Evans Black Collection (division of Shaw) from Carpet One
Pattern: Bended Bough
Color: Chalice (dark gray, gray highlights)
3/8” felt pad

Wall Paint
Limousine Leather (black), Home Depot

Lighting/Dimmers
Globe Electric 4” cans.
19 “MR16” LED lamps, 3000°k
Lutron RadioRA2 dimmers, 5 zones

AV System
Projector: JVC DLA RS520

Screen: Stewart 115x49” 2.35 Cima Neve 1.1 gain

Speakers / Positions (az/elev)

L/R Adam Audio S3V, ±32º, 0º (see details)
C Adam Audio S3H, 0º, -7º
Sub Hsu ULS-15 Quad Pack

4 surrounds Legacy Silhouette on-walls
Lss/Rss, ±80º, 11º
Lb/Rb, ±130º, 10º

4 heights Tannoy Di6 DC
Front heights ±47º, 42º
Rear heights ±138º, 39º

7.1 AV Processor: Classé SSP-800
7.1.4 AV Processor: Anthem AVM 60
[Base 7.1 XLR audio outputs from each processor are switched by a Coleman 7.1SW into the amps. See details.]
2-ch subwoofer processor: MiniDisc OpenDRC-AN
5-ch amp: Anthem MCA 50
6-ch amp; Classé CAV 150


Sources

Oppo BDP 93
Oppo UDP 203
DirecTV Genie
Chromecast Ultra
Roku Ultra
Windows 10 PC with Roon for playing stereo and 5.1 rips from CD, SACD, DVD-A, DTS-CD, and LP transcriptions. More in this post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Door seals and more

My first theater has a nice 300 lb door with Zero Int'l seals. But there were two main problems. 1) Sound leaked. 2) Had to slam it to latch it against the seals. Thud!

This time the theater door is a standard 100 lb solid core slab. Same Zero International 170AA adjustable seals are used for the sides and top. But rather than the ubiquitous “automatic bottom,” am instead using the simple 485A seal attached to the bottom of the door. The seal contacts the threshold and overlaps the side seals, thus preventing gaps that occur with the automatic unit. It's a better seal. [Note to self: Next time use the Zero 870AA instead of the 485A as it allows for adjustment in place in case the door warps. If that happens, my remedy is to adjust to location of the top layer of the wood threshold, which is less convenient.]



3067302


To address the door slamming issue, I searched for a compression latch. The door handle’s latch has a roller bearing that contacts a tapered strike plate, compressing the seals as the latch rotates into the lock position. No slamming needed to get a tight seal. The latch and strike plate are made by Miwa Lock Products, Japan. RSH-001 handle and SKB strike were about $175.







This same door happens to be right where I wanted to put a surround speaker. To solve that I mounted the speaker unit on hinges, and the door has an arm attached that pulls the speaker into position when closed.



Another kind of door seal, on a much smaller scale, is the PJ port. I took Mr. Erskine's advice and made both sides of the glass accessible from the theater, for cleaning. Here is the frame before paint/installation, seen from the theater side. It holds a piece 8" x 10" optical quality glass (Edmund Optics). Result: no port noise complaint. :rolleyes:

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Acoustic treatments

Ceiling
The ceiling acoustic treatment is divided into 2 halves, front and rear. The rear half has a 2x4 frame that nicely holds 5.5” Roxul batting with a 6” air gap to the ceiling. Beneath the Roxul is a layer of cedar lattice plus landscape fabric. The lattice is screwed to the 2x4 frame.



The front half of the ceiling is covered mostly with 2” absorber panels (there's a 10” gap to the ceiling) except for the fabric panels covering the front height speakers, and a pair of diffusors. The diffusers are modeled after Alphacoustic Difuso type A, which not only looked interesting, but also seemed like a good DIY candidate. I cut up a sheet of 2” rigid foam (Foamular Insulpink), then glued the pieces to a couple sheets of 2’x6’ OSB. The 4x8’ foam panel cost just $29 at HD, so it was worth the experiment. Cuts like butter on a table saw.



Side Walls
Starting from the screen, each side wall starts with a pair of GIK 4A Alpha Diffusors to handle the first reflections of the nearest speaker and center speaker. They have been wrapped in speaker cloth to hide the bare slat edges. Next is a GIK 244 absorber to attenuate the opposite side speaker first reflection.

Completing the side wall are diffusors made from wine barrel staves. A lucky result of living in Oregon wine country. These were discards. :)



The you see the side surround speaker, mounted in an angled baffle. The speakers were located at 80° azimuth rather than the more traditional 90° so as to improve the sense of envelopment.Below is a picture of the Right Rear speaker with the grill removed. That's the KEF 8" coax in there.



The bare wall between the side and rear surrounds will soon be occupied by another DIY diffusor made of wine barrel staves. I am living in Oregon’s Willamette Valley wine country, and am the happy beneficiary of a generous winery who was disposing of said staves.

Above all are three GIK PolyFusors. Just there to kill slap echoes -- but they look cool, too.

Rear Wall
The center of the rear wall has a pair of 2” absorber panels, flanked by another pair of Alpha Diffusors. Aside from the entry door, I made a door for the equipment rack (same dual layer plywood & Green Glue sandwich as the window plugs). It has bronze spring seals all around, which holds the door snug and prevents equipment room noises from intruding. I no longer hear the Apple TV HDD, the Oppo or Sony BD optical drives, the PJ fan, or the PJ's lens wobulator for eShift. Just blissful silence. Now that's acoustic treatment!




Front wall
The screen sits on a false wall frame 2’ from the wall behind. The space is currently unoccupied except for a pair of subwoofers. I wanted to leave room for more/larger subs if deemed necessary in future.

Other than the 3 window plugs, the only treatment is 2” of Linacoustic covering the entire wall, including the plugs. The screen is surrounded by black velvet panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Window plugs

The weakest aspect of the wall system in terms of noise isolation is the windows behind the screen (builder required). I learned that blocking light is easy. Sound, not so much. The 2” fiberglass panels I used before proved that to me.

This time I made plugs with two layers of ¾” plywood and Green Glue. To seal them into the window frames, I attached strips of 3/8” felt underlayment along all the edges (blue in the diagram). When the plug is inserted into the window, the felt folds over the edge, and is squeezed tight. It makes a good seal, and holds the panel in place securely. Can be removed if desired -- no screw holes.







 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Hvac

This theater has its own ducted mini-split. Loved it in the first theater, love it again here. It's absolutely dead silent. The air handler is in the attic, above the entry hall.

[ETA 9/19] Ideally, the unit and ducting would not be in an attic space that has excessive heat buildup from the sun. I'd like to have better ventilation up there. Or better yet, find a friendlier place to install the unit, perhaps in the room with the rest of the equipment. ;)





The return air passes through the equipment room, thus carrying away excess heat. It's typically around 5-10 degrees warmer in there than the theater.
 

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Eggzellent! :)
One can't accept less than perfect from a guy like Roger.
Very tasteful with plenty useful details.
I too have been visiting the old thread regularly and now I'm subscribed to that one as well! :)
Everything hand built, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Eggzellent! :)
One can't accept less than perfect from a guy like Roger.
Very tasteful with plenty useful details.
I too have been visiting the old thread regularly and now I'm subscribed to that one as well! :)
Everything hand built, right?
Thank you, Tomaz. I hired the carpet installation but did the rest myself. I think that pretty much proves that perfection is not required to make me happy. ;)

I found it valuable to review Norm Varney's checklist to keep the key goals in mind during the design/build process. (He's from Kinetics Noise Control) I cannot say I met every point 100%, but where I departed, I did so knowing the tradeoff.

Norm Varney 15-point checklist
1 Matching center speaker
2 Electrical grounding, routing, connecting
3 Don’t EQ average across all seats
4 Dedicated HVAC
5 Provide adequate noise isolation
6 Provide adequate acoustic treatments
7 Maintain loudspeaker distance
8 Avoid sitting near walls
9 MLP centered between L/R
10 Avoid excessive mid/hi freq absorption; have adequate bass absorption
11 Adequate shell construction for containment
12 Avoid poor distribution room modes
13 Proper screen width for soundstage
14 Proper seat back height
15 Proper subwoofer placement

See Widescreen Review, Issue 203, Jan 2016 for more details.
Download of the article available here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I kind of doubt a man with your background would accept compromise. :)
Well, I do admit to having strong preferences (however selective). I'm sure that's quite normal around these parts. :D

Are these original Kef grills on your surrounds?
They are present, but I painted them black and wrapped them in grill cloth, not for cosmetics but to stop them from buzzing. They are not well anchored via the magnets. That's a weak point of the design. I also added a thin foam gasket around the perimeter of the baseplate to improve the junction with the cabinet, too. Now they work quite well. To be fair, I've paid a lot more for in-wall speakers that had the same weaknesses.

How thick is the treatment near L and R speakers? Looks like 10"? Or is there an air gap between?
The GIK 4a Alpha diffusors are 4.5" thick, and the 244 absorbers are 5.5". The curved Polyfusors are 5.5" max. All are flush on the wall.
 

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I'm giddy knowing I'll have a chance to visit/hear the new Deadwood II theater!

Roger.......these snippets of information indicate great moments in home theater engineering!:eek:

I'm on my phone sitting on a deck looking at a beautiful lake in Minnesota right now......as soon as I'm back to Oregon I'll give you a call!

I'm really, really looking forward to seeing room!

BTW......nice call on those KEF's! Looking forward to hearing them.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How did you address soundproofing the ventilation system for the minisplit? Or did you bother?
Thanks.

Did not do anything. The sound path from the roof vent through the air handler, then through the feed ducts into the room is enough to kill any sound flow. If there is a loud noise source outside -- like my neighbor's Thursday morning visit from the leaf blower fairy, I can tell it is out there through the window plugs, not the air vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks fantastic!! Can't wait to come down and check it out. Be happy to help with any projector tuning as well!
This is my second PJ, the first being the RS10. This one is appreciably brighter, even on the larger screen, low lamp, with manual aperture set down a few clicks. Quality looks great right out of the bottle in THX mode. But I am sure some tweaking might help cull more shadow detail without graying the inky blacks.

I'd be honored for you to visit!
 

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Ceiling
The ceiling acoustic treatment is divided into 2 halves, front and rear. The rear half has a 2x4 frame that nicely holds 5.5” Roxul batting with a 6” air gap to the ceiling. Beneath the Roxul is a layer of cedar lattice plus landscape fabric. The lattice is screwed to the 2x4 frame.



The front half of the ceiling is covered mostly with 2” absorber panels (there's a 10” gap to the ceiling) except for the fabric panels covering the front height speakers, and a pair of diffusors. The diffusers are modeled after Alphacoustic Difuso type A, which not only looked interesting, but also seemed like a good DIY candidate. I cut up a sheet of 2” rigid foam (Foamular Insulpink), then glued the pieces to a couple sheets of 2’x6’ OSB. The 4x8’ foam panel cost just $29 at HD, so it was worth the experiment. Cuts like butter on a table saw.



Side Walls
Starting from the screen, each side wall starts with a pair of GIK 4A Alpha Diffusors to handle the first reflections of the nearest speaker and center speaker. They have been wrapped in speaker cloth to hide the bare slat edges. Next is a GIK 244 absorber to attenuate the opposite side speaker first reflection.

The you see the side surround speaker, mounted in an angled baffle. The speakers were located at 80° azimuth rather than the more traditional 90° so as to improve the sense of envelopment.Below is a picture of the Right Rear speaker with the grill removed. That's the KEF 8" coax in there.



The bare wall between the side and rear surrounds will soon be occupied by another DIY diffusor made of wine barrel staves. I am living in Oregon’s Willamette Valley wine country, and am the happy beneficiary of a generous winery who was disposing of said staves.

Above all are three GIK PolyFusors. Just there to kill slap echoes -- but they look cool, too.

Rear Wall
The center of the rear wall has a pair of 2” absorber panels, flanked by another pair of Alpha Diffusors. Aside from the entry door, I made a door for the equipment rack (same dual layer plywood & Green Glue sandwich as the window plugs). It has bronze spring seals all around, which holds the door snug and prevents equipment room noises from intruding. I no longer hear the Apple TV HDD, the Oppo or Sony BD optical drives, the PJ fan, or the PJ's lens wobulator for eShift. Just blissful silence. Now that's acoustic treatment!




Front wall
The screen sits on a false wall frame 2’ from the wall behind. The space is currently unoccupied except for a pair of subwoofers. I wanted to leave room for more/larger subs if deemed necessary in future.

Other than the 3 window plugs, the only treatment is 2” of Linacoustic covering the entire wall, including the plugs. The screen is surrounded by black velvet panels.


Great looking theater! I was wondering what you used for the wood beams on your ceiling. Are they real or "faux"? I have a steel I-beam running the width of the theater I am going to trim out with wood to give the appearance of a wood beam. I plan on adding a few more across the ceiling for aesthetics. Also, is the cedar lattice for holding the roxul up or is that for appearance/acoustics?

I also really like your color scheme and seats, but won't show my wife as I have her talked into traditional theater seats. :)

Very nice work!

Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Great looking theater! I was wondering what you used for the wood beams on your ceiling. Are they real or "faux"? I have a steel I-beam running the width of the theater I am going to trim out with wood to give the appearance of a wood beam. I plan on adding a few more across the ceiling for aesthetics.
Thanks, Dave.

The faux beams are rigid foam. Very light weight. Saw them on HGTV :D It saved me from having to fabricate from wood panels. They worked out fine, but I think wood would have been less vulnerable to the rigors of the construction process. My first theater has real beams milled to my spec, but I did not want to go that route again due to cost and weight -- plus I wanted to run lighting in them this time.

Also, is the cedar lattice for holding the roxul up or is that for appearance/acoustics?
The lattice prevents the Roxul from falling out, allows sound to pass through, and it looks pretty good, too. It serves multiple purposes.

What I liked about this lattice is that every contact point between two cross members is factory glued, then stapled. Plus they used all straight, clear cedar. It cannot be skewed out-of-square, nor does it buzz with vibration. Would have been a tedious project to build them myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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I took inspiration from PeterM's ceiling.
I was going to ask.

I assume the treatments are all DIY? i.e. you didn't hire anyone?

As with your last room, its not often you see treatments employed in a manner that dont look "just hung on the wall", very nice integration.

....someone needs to ask about the shortlist for the processor?
 
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