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Dedicated Basement Theater - Room Layout Advice

1804 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by DougUSMC, Jul 22, 2021

kernelpanic1

Discussion Starter · Jul 16, 2021

Hi all, need some advice on room layout. My vision is to build my dream 7.2.4 theater with two rows of seating, 2nd row on a riser with 3 seats in each row. The best space available in the basement of my new house is only 12ft wide with 7 ft ceilings (length is flexible and not an issue). This seems tight to me for a theater of this level. My concerns are:

Width:

There only seems to be about 26 inches of aisle space on each side with three seat rows based on measuring
Also means that side surrounds would only be ~26 inches from listeners (I plan to go bi-poles in the middle of the two rows to help with this)

Height:

Is 7' ceiling enough separation between Atmos speakers and bed layer?
Clearance of head space from riser to ceiling is limited
The ceiling is not 100% flat and symmetrical as there is some ductwork along the back right corner of the space.

What's everyone experience with similar room widths and heights? Wondering if I should just go with the layout as is or look at some major renovation to alter the width/ceiling height?

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squared80

· #2 · Jul 17, 2021

26" is fine. Not ideal, but fine. Don't worry about it. Go with bi-poles a little up and back of the MLP.

7' makes things tougher, but it'll be fine. Throw 4 in-ceilings in there - you'll just need to be mindful of the angles to the MLP with a ceiling that low. Other rows may suffer a bit but oh well.

kernelpanic1

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 18, 2021

squared80 said:
26" is fine. Not ideal, but fine. Don't worry about it. Go with bi-poles a little up and back of the MLP.

7' makes things tougher, but it'll be fine. Throw 4 in-ceilings in there - you'll just need to be mindful of the angles to the MLP with a ceiling that low. Other rows may suffer a bit but oh well.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I was hoping to avoid in-ceilings to keep the room sound isolated and also help with the angles, but I suppose it's just a matter of what I'm willing to compromise for.

DougUSMC

· #4 · Jul 18, 2021

How tall are you thinking of making the riser, given that 7' ceiling? There's a good spreadsheet with calculator HERE.

Basically, height is a pretty simple math formula that allows the second row to see the screen unobstructed by the first row.

kernelpanic1

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 19, 2021

Thanks for the calculator, very cool! I was originally thinking 12", but I can play with that if needed. That would only give 6' height for the second row and there will be rear atmos to contend with too.

BIGmouthinDC

· #6 · Jul 20, 2021 (Edited)

A trick often used in vertically challenged two row theaters is to put the second row on a "booster" riser under the base of the chairs. For example if you deterime you need 12 inches of lift, build a 8 inch riser and raise the seats up an additional 4 inches by building a mini platform for just the base of the chair. Or there are companies that sell second row seating that have the seat cushion up to 8 inches higher than the normal matching recliners for the front row. The goal of these strategies is to maintain a reasonable amount of head room for walking around. A 7 ft tall ceiling is really low. You will need every trick to make it workable.

Here is a very simple riser height calculator from the sticky thread on the topic: Theater Riser Calculator

Reactions: 1

sirjaymz

· #7 · Jul 20, 2021

Here’s an example of what @BIGmouthinDC is talking about.

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BIGmouthinDC

· #8 · Jul 20, 2021 (Edited)

Here is an example of taller second row seating offerings, you may just need a running start to park your butt that high. But really no different than sitting on a bar stool. If you have a 7 ft room you do what you have to. Those seats and a 5 inch riser will get you 12 inches of lift. that still leaves 6' 7" of ceiling height when standing on the riser, tight but doable for all of my friends.

Seatcraft Grenada BACKROW Theater Seating®, 4 Materials, 15+ Colors, Power or Manual Recline, 7

Product Font Rectangle Parallel Diagram

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jehlinge

· #9 · Jul 20, 2021

Since I am short, and my wife is even shorter, and my kids are short (damn genes)...

If using the "booster" method or the BACKROW theater seating, I would consider adding a small step (10 inches deep) in front of the back row seats if...

I had plenty of walking space between the row of chairs (like three feet maybe)
The step would not interfere with the foot rest on the BACKROW theater seating (won't be an issue for the "booster")

Just my 2 cents.

Reactions: 1

JackVette

· #10 · Jul 20, 2021

BIGmouthinDC said:
A trick often used in vertically challenged two row theaters is to put the second row on a "booster" riser under the base of the chairs. For example if you deterime you need 12 inches of lift, build a 8 inch riser and raise the seats up an additional 4 inches by building a mini platform for just the base of the chair. Or there are companies that sell second row seating that have the seat cushion up to 8 inches higher than the normal matching recliners for the front row. The goal of these strategies is to maintain a reasonable amount of head room for walking around. A 7 ft tall ceiling is really low. You will need every trick to make it workable.

Here is a very simple riser height calculator from the sticky thread on the topic: Theater Riser Calculator

I have a similar issue.

The riser calculator says I need 15 inch height. Due to the height of the room, I don't want to go higher than 12 inches.

I saw some 3 inch "furniture risers" that fit under the seat legs. I thought that may be a simple fix?

I guess the mini platform is more elegant?

jehlinge

· #11 · Jul 20, 2021

JackVette said:
I have a similar issue.

The riser calculator says I need 15 inch height. Due to the height of the room, I don't want to go higher than 12 inches.

I saw some 3 inch "furniture risers" that fit under the seat legs. I thought that may be a simple fix?

I guess the mini platform is more elegant?

I think the mini platform is more elegant, looks better, or whatever you want to call it. I just don't like the extra height as we are short (see my previous response about how I would consider the step).

In my last theater I had the same issue, needed 16 inches but didn't want to go higher than 12 inches. In reality, if the front row is reclined the needed height of the riser lessens (at least with my recliners, so I went with 12). If you didn't want to recline...to the back row you went. The front row was reclined for 100% of movie watching. There were times for sports parties where the lights were on and the chairs were not reclined but nobody complained.

DougUSMC

· #12 · Jul 21, 2021

I completely understand the importance of a riser for viewing angles, but I'd also argue that giving the Atmos speakers more distance to develop is equally important. My ceiling is just under 9', and I have the boxes built down from it. Let's say it's about 8' 6" from the driver to the floor. The front row is on the concrete, the second on a 15" riser. I haven't done any REW or EQ yet, but I can already hear a marked difference in the Atmos speakers in the first and second rows. The first row sounds significantly better than the second.
I'm hoping I can improve that with my QSC system and some EQ, but I'd argue that if I'm having challenges with almost 7' to the speaker that doesn't bode well for 6' or less.

YMMV, but you may want to weight which is more important to you: having to raise the screen or have obstructed view OR having good sounding Atmos...

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kernelpanic1

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jul 21, 2021

Thanks for the all the suggestions on the mini-riser. I will definitely consider that. I'm also wondering if excavating part of the basement to add more ceiling height would make sense. This is supposed to be my dream theater in our "forever" home.

DougUSMC said:
I completely understand the importance of a riser for viewing angles, but I'd also argue that giving the Atmos speakers more distance to develop is equally important. My ceiling is just under 9', and I have the boxes built down from it. Let's say it's about 8' 6" from the driver to the floor. The front row is on the concrete, the second on a 15" riser. I haven't done any REW or EQ yet, but I can already hear a marked difference in the Atmos speakers in the first and second rows. The first row sounds significantly better than the second.
I'm hoping I can improve that with my QSC system and some EQ, but I'd argue that if I'm having challenges with almost 7' to the speaker that doesn't bode well for 6' or less.

YMMV, but you may want to weight which is more important to you: having to raise the screen or have obstructed view OR having good sounding Atmos...

I wonder if this could be due to the angles of the Atmos speakers? Perhaps EQ too like you said.

BIGmouthinDC

· #14 · Jul 21, 2021

The pro designers I work with would probably recommend ceiling bounce speakers for Atmos in a 7 ft tall room.
Another consideration is the importance of perfect audio in the second row. Only you can predict how you will use your space. Often the second row is seldom used.

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DougUSMC

· #15 · Jul 21, 2021

kernelpanic1 said:
Thanks for the all the suggestions on the mini-riser. I will definitely consider that. I'm also wondering if excavating part of the basement to add more ceiling height would make sense. This is supposed to be my dream theater in our "forever" home.

BIGmouthinDC said:
The pro designers I work with would probably recommend ceiling bounce speakers for Atmos in a 7 ft tall room.
Another consideration is the importance of perfect audio in the second row. Only you can predict how you will use your space. Often the second row is seldom used.

I think Jeff has an awesome idea in the bounce speakers.

I dig it being the forever home. We're also looking to move and build ours, so I'm approaching the new build a bit differently, and I'd make a suggestion:
Approach it like an engineer- Don't start with the room in mind and start designing the solution, start with the RESULTS in mind and make a list of requirements.

As big mentioned, pro designers can likely be a case of spending a bit of money up front, and saving a ton on the back end. Give them your list of "requirements", and let them respond impartially with a solution. I know most people start seeing $$ when they hear that, but trust me - it's cheaper than excavating a basement.

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kernelpanic1

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jul 22, 2021

DougUSMC said:
I dig it being the forever home. We're also looking to move and build ours, so I'm approaching the new build a bit differently, and I'd make a suggestion:
Approach it like an engineer- Don't start with the room in mind and start designing the solution, start with the RESULTS in mind and make a list of requirements.

As big mentioned, pro designers can likely be a case of spending a bit of money up front, and saving a ton on the back end. Give them your list of "requirements", and let them respond impartially with a solution. I know most people start seeing $$ when they hear that, but trust me - it's cheaper than excavating a basement.

Thanks, yeah totally agree on the requirements perspective. I'm an engineer so I have a lot of requirements

I'm in the process of contacting a few HT companies, we'll see what they say.

DougUSMC

· #17 · Jul 22, 2021

kernelpanic1 said:
Thanks, yeah totally agree on the requirements perspective. I'm an engineer so I have a lot of requirements

I'm in the process of contacting a few HT companies, we'll see what they say.

That's awesome, I'm in the same process, so I can't wait to see what you come up with.

Another tip: the company that designs your room doesn't have to be the same one that builds it. They'll want to work together, but it's ok to mix & match. Think of it as a GC and all the subs for building a house.

Care to share who you're talking to? There are a lot of great ones here on the forum that would definitely be worth a convo, if you're interested. @Nyal Mellor, @SierraMikeBravo, and @BrolicBeast off the top of my head.

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