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Just read the manual for my BP 9060 Floor Standing LR, it says to put it on Large in Receiver. I have two VTF2 Mk5s, should I be putting my LR 9060s on Large? Sub manual says otherwise. I have the 9060s plugged in, which I'm assuming is necessary to enable the subwoofers, so if I set them to small, are they only serving as speakers and no Low Frequency? Also, should I put the volume at 12 oclock even though my subs are at 9 oclock? I'm sorry for the amateur questions, but I am struggling with settings on my home theater setup in terms of setting for my receiver and speakers.[/QUOTE

1) No. Set to small starting with 80htz crossover. You can experiment up/down from there but your HSU's are going to produce 80 and under better than the powered woofers in the DT's without localization. So place the HSU's where they play the best in your room, within any placement limitations of course. Manual comes from DT marketing department. You can ignore it.

2) No. The crossover is not a brick wall. 80htz is just where they will start rolling off. They will still contribute down to 40htz or so, just at an attenuated level. They will also be playing 80 and up to the internal xo point (350htz, or so???) and do so with plenty of headroom and low distortion.

3) No, not necessarily. Best bet would be to try and level or gain match the bass on the DT with the bass knob on the back. Target 75db at your listening position with an 80htz test tone. You can use a SPL app meter on your phone if you have nothing else. Level matching is the easiest way to go here. Just adj the knob until you get 75db for each one. Each speaker might not be the same setting on the dial. One might be 11 oclock, the other 2. You can find test tones on youtube of you dont have another source.

Enjoy the process. It takes time. Especially getting the low frequencies right.
Thank you for this detailed response! I understand most of it, such as test tones and spl meter and adjusting the knob. I tried my phone with the test tones. My volume was at 75, but my speakers were only showing tops 70dbs, and it was really loud to me.

What really trips me up is the “crossover” talk. I understand it is where the receiver will stop relying on one speakers at a certain level, but I just don’t know how or what to set each speaker/sub at?
 

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I am fortunate to have the following Definitive’s: (2) BP9080’S as my FRONT CHANNELS , (1) CS9080 as my CENTER, (2) BP9060’s with ATMOS as my SURROUNDS, and (2)SR9080’s as my BACK SURROUNDS.

I am 75% Movies, Streaming and TV with the other 25% Hi-Res Music.

I have a dedicated 16’ X 16’ Room with high vaulted ceilings.

Do you think I would benefit from adding any well placed Subwoofers, as almost all the LOW FREQUENCY ENERGY is coming from the FRONT/CENTER?
 

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I am fortunate to have the following Definitive’s: (2) BP9080’S as my FRONT CHANNELS , (1) CS9080 as my CENTER, (2) BP9060’s with ATMOS as my SURROUNDS, and (2)SR9080’s as my BACK SURROUNDS.

I am 75% Movies, Streaming and TV with the other 25% Hi-Res Music.

I have a dedicated 16’ X 16’ Room with high vaulted ceilings.

Do you think I would benefit from adding any well placed Subwoofers, as almost all the LOW FREQUENCY ENERGY is coming from the FRONT/CENTER?

yes. there is no tower, powered or otherwise, that will handle the lows and lows spl like a powered sup will.


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yes. there is no tower, powered or otherwise, that will handle the lows and lows spl like a powered sup will.


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Yeah, I was looking for one or possibly 2 of the newer

SVS PC-2000 Pro Subwoofers

https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-2000-pro

They are Vertical so as to conserve floor space and with a downward firing 12" Woofer they should be omnidirectional at the lowest of frequencies.

I am debating wheter to save $200 per copy and get the Closeout SVS PC-2000 (Non-Pro, i.e. No App Control) Subwoofers

https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-2000?variant=9559987395

What do you think?
 

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Thank you for this detailed response! I understand most of it, such as test tones and spl meter and adjusting the knob. I tried my phone with the test tones. My volume was at 75, but my speakers were only showing tops 70dbs, and it was really loud to me.

What really trips me up is the “crossover” talk. I understand it is where the receiver will stop relying on one speakers at a certain level, but I just don’t know how or what to set each speaker/sub at?
You have your volume setting in the AVR set to an Absolute scale display. Go into your settings and change it to a Relative scale display. See this link for context, https://forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/volume-display-0db-reference-level-how-is-it-all-related.68081/

Using the Relative scale will tell you/us more about how things are behaving in your room. 75db should equate to 0.00 on the Relative scale of your AVR. So -10.0db equates to 65db, -15.0 is 60db, etc. And yes, 75 is loud. About as loud as a vacuum cleaner. https://www.noisehelp.com/noise-level-chart.html

Using an 80htz tone is a bit over simplified because of how low frequency waves behave indoors. A more accurate way of calibrating your bass knob, would be to run pink noise from your AVR to the Def Tech towers, but do so with just a LFE connection only. Unplug the left/right line in connection so that you are only using the powered woofer. This will minimize any impact your room might have on any singular frequency. I apologize for the overly simplified advice given prior.

Regarding your crossover question, you are not alone. What you are really asking about is the broader topic of indoor bass management. It's a very deep rabit hole. See this guide before jumping in. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/2958528-guide-subwoofer-calibration-bass-preferences.html

The short answer to your question of what to set the crossover to is; it depends. It depends on a lot of factors that include personal taste.

Using the room calibration software in your AVR can help with this. I'm mostly familiar with Audyssey. It attempts to set the crossover of each speaker based upon the f3 point of each individual speaker. Whatever it measures the F3 point at, it will then round the crossover point up to the nearest level allowed by that AVR/PrePro above that point. So if that f3 point is 55htz, it will set the xo to 60htz. If it is under 40htz, it will set them to large. It is okay, usually preferable, to adjust this up to 80htz because 80 and under are not localizable to most humans. This is why subwoofers are not always best placed next to the L/R mains, but rather where they best interact within the actual room. Whatever you do, do not lower the crossover from where the AVR set it.

In some cases where subs are placed on the front sound stage, people can get away with a higher crossover and not be bothered by any localization. Your mileage may vary. No harm in experimenting.
 
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You have your volume setting in the AVR set to an Absolute scale display. Go into your settings and change it to a Relative scale display. See this link for context, https://forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/volume-display-0db-reference-level-how-is-it-all-related.68081/

Using the Relative scale will tell you/us more about how things are behaving in your room. 75db should equate to 0.00 on the Relative scale of your AVR. So -10.0db equates to 65db, -15.0 is 60db, etc. And yes, 75 is loud. About as loud as a vacuum cleaner. https://www.noisehelp.com/noise-level-chart.html

Using an 80htz tone is a bit over simplified because of how low frequency waves behave indoors. A more accurate way of calibrating your bass knob, would be to run pink noise from your AVR to the Def Tech towers, but do so with just a LFE connection only. Unplug the left/right line in connection so that you are only using the powered woofer. This will minimize any impact your room might have on any singular frequency. I apologize for the overly simplified advice given prior.

Regarding your crossover question, you are not alone. What you are really asking about is the broader topic of indoor bass management. It's a very deep rabit hole. See this guide before jumping in. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/2958528-guide-subwoofer-calibration-bass-preferences.html

The short answer to your question of what to set the crossover to is; it depends. It depends on a lot of factors that include personal taste.

Using the room calibration software in your AVR can help with this. I'm mostly familiar with Audyssey. It attempts to set the crossover of each speaker based upon the f3 point of each individual speaker. Whatever it measures the F3 point at, it will then round the crossover point up to the nearest level allowed by that AVR/PrePro above that point. So if that f3 point is 55htz, it will set the xo to 60htz. If it is under 40htz, it will set them to large. It is okay, usually preferable, to adjust this up to 80htz because 80 and under are not localizable to most humans. This is why subwoofers are not always best placed next to the L/R mains, but rather where they best interact within the actual room. Whatever you do, do not lower the crossover from where the AVR set it.

In some cases where subs are placed on the front sound stage, people can get away with a higher crossover and not be bothered by any localization. Your mileage may vary. No harm in experimenting.
I appreciate all this info. It is mostly new to me, so I will unpack it bit by bit. I did just buy an SPL meter, so I hope to use it after the Audyssey set up? I'm figuring it all out as I go.
 

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^ Level match your bass knobs on the towers before running Audyssey.
 

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I know this is a def tech thread. But I have SM55’s L/R and CS8040 Center. I have the opportunity to buy Martin Logan Motion 10’s L/R and Martin Logan Center for a pretty good price. Willing to try them out. Has anyone had any experience with Martin Logan’s?


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^ No, but you were inflicting some pain upon it. The blinking red usually means you found it's limit.

Time for an upgrade. :)
 

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I noticed this morning 1 of my BP9040 towers had the D light illuminated even though my AVR had been powered down the whole night before. I turned on some music and the sub in the tower seemed to work ok. Is this indicative of anything?

Thanks
 

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^ strange. They should power down about 10-15 min after the power supply has been shut off.

As long as the woofer still works, I would not worry about it too much.
 

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strange the didnt power down after an entire night.

normally it powers down after 15 minutes. never had a problem with mine
 

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Funny I got home from work and the light on that one tower was on. AVR had been off for 10 hours. Makes no sense to me, the other 3 towers have always turned off after 15 minutes. I’d call def tech but sounds like I’d never hear back anyway
 

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Funny I got home from work and the light on that one tower was on. AVR had been off for 10 hours. Makes no sense to me, the other 3 towers have always turned off after 15 minutes. I’d call def tech but sounds like I’d never hear back anyway

send them an email.

it seems they respond better that way


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I sent them an e-mail this morning. Hoping to hear back on this, light was on all night. The tower will not go into standby

Doubt if this will help but it has twice on my 10 year powered Def Tech Center (CS8080).


1. Pull the power cord.
2. Wait, There is a capacitor or something in there that supplies power for a bit even when it's unplugged, WAIT for the power light to TURN OFF, it may take a few minutes. Once it goes out, give it another 10 minutes and try it, if that does not fix the problem jerk the power cord out over night.



This reset mine. Worked both times, I think I know what I did to cause it not to go to sleep. I have been running tests on individual speakers and while the receiver powered on I often pull the red banana plug out of the right speaker so I can hear just the front L/R. When I plug it back in (carefully, but receiver power is still on, volume zero, no source playing) it seems to jam up sleep mode sometimes.



Easy try, not much effort.
 

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Doubt if this will help but it has twice on my 10 year powered Def Tech Center (CS8080).


1. Pull the power cord.
2. Wait, There is a capacitor or something in there that supplies power for a bit even when it's unplugged, WAIT for the power light to TURN OFF, it may take a few minutes. Once it goes out, give it another 10 minutes and try it, if that does not fix the problem jerk the power cord out over night.



This reset mine. Worked both times, I think I know what I did to cause it not to go to sleep. I have been running tests on individual speakers and while the receiver powered on I often pull the red banana plug out of the right speaker so I can hear just the front L/R. When I plug it back in (carefully, but receiver power is still on, volume zero, no source playing) it seems to jam up sleep mode sometimes.



Easy try, not much effort.
Laika, thanks I will definitely try that tonight. I was on hold for about 10 minutes but was able to speak to someone at Def Tech and they wanted me to call back when I was in front of the speaker to troubleshoot a few things. They said there was a chance I'd need a new amp. Has anyone changed out an amp on these? Is it pretty easy?
 

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Laika, thanks I will definitely try that tonight. I was on hold for about 10 minutes but was able to speak to someone at Def Tech and they wanted me to call back when I was in front of the speaker to troubleshoot a few things. They said there was a chance I'd need a new amp. Has anyone changed out an amp on these? Is it pretty easy?
I had to change an amp on my 9060 towers a month after purchase...was a dud but after I did it's been rock solid since...3 years and counting.

When you unscrew the amp plate take pictures of where all wires go so it will be easy to hook up the new amp.The wires are color coded from what I remember and it was a very easy swap.

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What are you guys running for volume on back of your BP9000 series towers? I was running them all at 12:00 middle but just increased them 1 click higher. Thinking I could go to 1:30 or 2:00 with the dial for some more mid bass. I have 3 seperate subs running as well
 
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