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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks,

Used to be active on here many years ago, back when Epik Subwoofers and Elemental Designs were churning out behemoth room busters that didn't break the bank. I got an Epik Tower 15 inch ported subwoofer with a 500W BASH amp circa 2007 and it was lightly used over the years as I lived in apartments. Well, I have recently been able to resurrect my HT hobby and after setting everything up for a 5.1.2 system, I tested a movie with heavy base scene and my sub stopped working. I have done a lot of research and I know Epik had numerous problems with their BASH amps failing, which ultimately led to them closing up shop.

Here's what I know:

1. When the sub went dead, there was no pop, sizzle, or crack; no smell of burnt electrical components, no smell of anykind (except sadness).

2. The light on the sub turns green when powered up. I have removed and inspected the fuse, and it looks good (to an untrained eye). I have a buddy who will bring his multimeter over and tell me definitively if there is a problem with the fuse. We will also test the speaker woofer itself with the multimeter. I assume if reading is >1ohm, then the woofer components are fine (please correct me if I'm wrong). Also, if the woofer was blown, I am under the impression there would be sound coming from it, just not good sound, and perhaps a buzz or hum or something else (again, please correct me if I'm wrong). There is no sound of anykind coming from the sub.

3. I have removed the amp from the enclosure, and again, nothing visibly fried, no smell of any kind.

Options:

1. Assuming the amp is to blame, I can purchase a BASH 500S Digital Subwoofer plate amp ($250). This amp looks identical to the current amp, even has the same dimensions. I just don't know if I would need a DSP to set a particular cross-over, or if the factory settings on the 500S would be fine. It is difficult to find info on the Epik Tower, and I know the BASH amp was custom for the Tower, I just don't know in what regards it is "custom". This would be the easiest option for me and would require the least amount of work/effort. But would it sound comparable to the original amp?

2. I've seen user posts detailing how to convert these subs to passive subs and buy a Behringer NX3000D ($400). This is a more expensive option, and would require me to drill out holes for the woofer speaker wires, and convert the wires to be accepted into the NX3000D (I'm assuming with something like GLS Audio Speaker Plug Twist Lock 4 pole speaker plugs compatable with Neutrik Speakon available on Amazon. I would also have to do a lot of research to learn about how to use the amp software. Again my audio knowledge is quite limited (username checks out).

Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Sounds like you have a broken 13+ year old speaker that you cant get parts for and support doesnt existing to find out if you need DSP in a replacement amp. Did I get close? Most likely its a broken connection (including solder trace in a circuit board) somewhere or the amp gave up the ghost. Your options are to dump money into a 13+ year old speaker or go get a new one. Just keep in mind the first option isn't really an option. Once you have verified the fuse is good and the voice coil isn't fried or that the amp is putting out power/voltage. Either way, you will most likley need parts for a 13+ year old amp. Parts that you cant match to the old ones as there are no specs or support to tell you what woofer etc. YOu would proabbly be money ahead to get yourself a new woofer. Is it this critter?




https://www.cnet.com/news/the-king-kong-of-affordable-subwoofers/


1: Yes most likley


2: Get your self a new sub
 
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Hello folks,

Used to be active on here many years ago, back when Epik Subwoofers and Elemental Designs were churning out behemoth room busters that didn't break the bank. I got an Epik Tower 15 inch ported subwoofer with a 500W BASH amp circa 2007 and it was lightly used over the years as I lived in apartments. Well, I have recently been able to resurrect my HT hobby and after setting everything up for a 5.1.2 system, I tested a movie with heavy base scene and my sub stopped working. I have done a lot of research and I know Epik had numerous problems with their BASH amps failing, which ultimately led to them closing up shop.

Here's what I know:

1. When the sub went dead, there was no pop, sizzle, or crack; no smell of burnt electrical components, no smell of anykind (except sadness).

2. The light on the sub turns green when powered up. I have removed and inspected the fuse, and it looks good (to an untrained eye). I have a buddy who will bring his multimeter over and tell me definitively if there is a problem with the fuse. We will also test the speaker woofer itself with the multimeter. I assume if reading is >1ohm, then the woofer components are fine (please correct me if I'm wrong). Also, if the woofer was blown, I am under the impression there would be sound coming from it, just not good sound, and perhaps a buzz or hum or something else (again, please correct me if I'm wrong). There is no sound of anykind coming from the sub.

3. I have removed the amp from the enclosure, and again, nothing visibly fried, no smell of any kind.

Options:

1. Assuming the amp is to blame, I can purchase a BASH 500S Digital Subwoofer plate amp ($250). This amp looks identical to the current amp, even has the same dimensions. I just don't know if I would need a DSP to set a particular cross-over, or if the factory settings on the 500S would be fine. It is difficult to find info on the Epik Tower, and I know the BASH amp was custom for the Tower, I just don't know in what regards it is "custom". This would be the easiest option for me and would require the least amount of work/effort. But would it sound comparable to the original amp?

2. I've seen user posts detailing how to convert these subs to passive subs and buy a Behringer NX3000D ($400). This is a more expensive option, and would require me to drill out holes for the woofer speaker wires, and convert the wires to be accepted into the NX3000D (I'm assuming with something like GLS Audio Speaker Plug Twist Lock 4 pole speaker plugs compatable with Neutrik Speakon available on Amazon. I would also have to do a lot of research to learn about how to use the amp software. Again my audio knowledge is quite limited (username checks out).

Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Check with daved50 too. He may have those replacement amps available and if not, he can often give you a repair estimate at little cost. He does good work at a very reasonable rate(and turn around times).

Tom V.
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Also, that was a huge enclosure for a 15 inch driver. I'd put the port tune around 20hz give a bit. Point being, there probably wasn't much FR shaping done/needed in the amp for this one.

If you have a decent room correction(audyssey for example) any slight change in this regard would be compensated for anyway during calibration.

Tom V.
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Discussion Starter #6
Is it this critter?
No, that's a sealed Epik Empire. They notoriously had more problems than the ported offerings from Epik.

1: Yes most likley
So, then the BASH S500 may be the best option assuming it's not a simple fuse issue? $250 to get me back in business vs finding something comparable to what I'm accustomed to in terms of LFE.


2: Get your self a new sub
I think if I were to find something equal or better to this beast, I'd be looking at an SVS PB13.

Appreciate your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Check with daved50 too. He may have those replacement amps available and if not, he can often give you a repair estimate at little cost. He does good work at a very reasonable rate(and turn around times).

Tom V.
Team Power

Thanks for this advice! I will send him a PM, as soon as I reach the required 15 posts to send a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, that was a huge enclosure for a 15 inch driver. I'd put the port tune around 20hz give a bit. Point being, there probably wasn't much FR shaping done/needed in the amp for this one.

If you have a decent room correction(audyssey for example) any slight change in this regard would be compensated for anyway during calibration.

Tom V.
Team Power.

Excuse my ignorance, but would putting a port tune around 20hz be the same thing as putting a high pass filter at 20hz? I've read a previous post that recommended putting a 24db HPF at 20Hz, but this was for a sealed Epik, so not sure if it applies similarly to the ported Tower. Thanks again for the help!
 

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Excuse my ignorance, but would putting a port tune around 20hz be the same thing as putting a high pass filter at 20hz? I've read a previous post that recommended putting a 24db HPF at 20Hz, but this was for a sealed Epik, so not sure if it applies similarly to the ported Tower. Thanks again for the help!
Somewhere around the tuning point is typical for electrical highpass on old school non dsp stuff. I think it is assumed that the bash will start rolling off pretty hard(12-24dB/octave) once the boost is done. But I don't think I have any of those PE bash amps around here to verify that. You might be able to find out more info via google.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2554833-subsonic-filter-bash-amps-does-anyone-know-when-kicks.html

There is the first thing that pops up for me.

Also, PE customer support might be able to provide the info as well.

Tom V.
Team Power
 
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