[megacz]

Hey, I have an NEC 6PG, and just fixed a problem with the red gun by replacing the STK392-040 (thanks, avsforum!).


Unfortunately, when putting the board back in, I accidentally swapped the red and blue cables going to that board. The projector worked fine for two hours, but when I switched it from S-Video to RGB input, it made a loud popping noise (ugh) and died.


Now, when I power on the projector, the status code on the back reads 00 at all times, fans spin up, and it makes the typical noises as if it's syncing to the video signal, but no light comes out of the tubes at all.


On other advice, I disconnected the CP connector on the def board, but that had no effect (status code still reads 00).


Did I fry my projector? Perhaps just blew a fuse? (if so, where?) Any ideas on how to fix this? Are there 'shop manuals' for these things out there?


Thanks for any advice you can give me...

 

[moome]

hi, you can get manual you want from here:
http://freebrd.com/manuals.html



good luck!

 

[Doug Baisey]

megacz,

You were suppose to lift the CP connector at the C-Drive, not the deflection.

To trouble shoot keep it on s-video input, if it still runs its only half dead thats the good news. Go over the rest of the connections that you changed. Doug

 

[megacz]

Hrm, I had thought that the C-Drive was the board between the red and green guns, *closest to the red gun*. This is the board where I replaced the STK chip, which fixed my earlier problem with the red gun not responding to horizontal static alignment commands.


Anyways, that board (closest to red gun) only has FA, FS, and FP connectors (as well as FR, FG, and FB).


The board next to it (closest to the green gun) has a CP connector, which I tried disconnecting -- no results.


Am I confused as to which board is which?


By the way, I just ordered the shop manual, which I will study very closely. This should cut down on some of my confusion.


Also, I can't put the projector into S-Video mode because I can't see the on-screen menus... is there some way to force it to SVideo mode without using the on screen menus?


- a

 

[cookie]

Pressing '1' on the remote sets the projector to the default video input memory. Pressing '2' sets it to the default RGB input memory.


Make sure the small switch near the s-video input plug is set to s-video, not composite.

 

[Doug Baisey]

megacz,

OK lets take a look, the c-drive is the board next to the green tube, the f-drive is next to the red. Are you saying you replaced the chip on the f-drive thinking it was the c-drive? They use the same chip and the f-drive only has one of these and the c-drive has two. The other chip on the f-drive isnt the same. Doug

 

[megacz]

Okay, I have the service manual now, so I feel a bit more informed. Here's a quick recap of what happened, with the

correct names for all the boards (I was confused earlier)


1. Red horiz static alignment refused to respond to commands

2. Posted here, was advised to replace STK chip on C-Drive

3. I replaced the STK chip on the F-Drive instead (whoops),

also accidentally swapped FR and FB wires going to

F-Drive.

4. Projector worked perfectly for two hours in S-Vid mode (red

static alignment even worked properly)

5. Switched to SVGA mode, heard a loud pop

6. Absolutely no light comes out of the tubes now. Pressing 1/2

to switch from SVid to SVGA causes projector to make

"successful syncing noise" (sorry, can't explain it any better)

but still no light at all comes out of the tubes.

7. Advised to lift CP connector on C-Drive. Tried it, no luck.


Status code reads 00 at all times. When I turn on the projector, the LED in the center of the DEF board flashes on, then off. The LED in the corner of the DEF board remains on at all times.


Any ideas on what I should try next?


Thanks once again for all your help. You guys rock.


- a

 

[Doug Baisey]

megacz,

This would be your vertical or vertical deflection stop. From here it gets technical, you have to look for a sawtooth wave form 1 Vp-p at TP4003.

The HV shouldt be up.

Im afraid at this point its time to call a tech. This is because you have to check a few things on the HV board. One thing to try is to lift the FP connector on the focus board, you didnt get FP and CP mixed up did you? Also check you solder job, you might have two pins shorted, switching the two colors wont blow the board unless it was way out of whack. Last make sure any connector that has a F is going to the focus board. Doug

 

[megacz]

Yeah, I've tried lifting the FP connector as well, no luck.

I had a TV repair shop solder on the STK chip, and it looks

like they did a really good job with it.

Im afraid at this point its time to call a tech.


That's okay; at this point I'd rather pay somebody who's familiar with this. I'd also rather not mess with the HV circuits myself.


Can you recommend a technician in the San Francisco bay area (I live in SF), or tell me how to find one?


Is it likely that the tech would be able to come to my house (since the projector is 125 pounds), or am I going to have to take it out to the technician?

 

[Doug Baisey]

megacz,

In that area I dont, closest would be Fresno. I do have a client up there, let me check and see if hes ready. Doug


You can try www.nectech.com then dealer locator then click on service, there are very few dealers that still service CRT, make sure you tell them what your problem is and the model number, this isnt a consumer item, its Pro Series. Doug