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Difference Wireing makes?

624 Views 18 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  arnyk
Got the higher end Klipsch speaker sets with F3's, C3' B2's, and the Oval surrounds.

I did a wiring job today to change out 18 Gauge to 12 with the F2 towers. What advantages do I

have overall doing this change?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Using thicker gauge wires reduces the resistance (attenuation) of the signals getting to the speakers. The Wikipedia article provides a good summary of best practices. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speaker_wire


Briefly, though, either 16 or 14 gauge are more than adequate for home audio applications. Don't waste your money on "boutique" brands. Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cables are reliable sources.
That's much appreciated here. I just noticed a nice healthy increase on sound quality too on the F3's which I baught the

wire for.
2

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmann304  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24345809


That's much appreciated here. I just noticed a nice healthy increase on sound quality too on the F3's which I baught the

wire for.

That's the power of expectation for you!



Unless it was half busted, the 18 AWG would have been good to 32ft with 8Ω speakers. Anyway it's done now so forget about it, relax and enjoy your new setup.



References:

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#wiretable (and associated text)

plus:
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf
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It really shouldn't matter with distance either I have 2 25 foot lengths I am using 140W per channel on 7 channels and F3's for this set. it makes

a difference in sound as to what your using in gauge wiring 12 gave me a much richer sound from these.
Then why did you bother posting if you already know that for your own purposes, you now have "much richer" sound? Even though that's highy unlikely, unless there was something wrong before....what gauge wire do you think is "in" the speakers? Do the rules surrounding necessary wire gauge only apply between your receiver and speakers? Did you read any of the information regarding the relationship between gauge and distance?
18 gauge wire can give you a fairly significant voltage drop.


Since bass often requires more current to the speakers than higher frequencies, this could cause the bass to be reduced relative to other frequencies.


14 or 12 gauge wire will definitely be better than 18 gauge, especially if the length is over 12 feet.

One of the things that many people forget is the fact that sometimes old connections can get corroded or loose, and consequently, any new wire might be better, because one redoes the connection.  Since people rarely try the old wire again, they often erroneously attribute the improvement to the wire instead of the old connection being less than ideal.

 

For the wire that is needed, see:

 

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

 

It is a good idea to periodically check one's connections, particularly in humid environments.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmann304  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24349308


12 gave me a much richer sound from these.
The difference in insertion loss over a 25 foot run between 18 and 12ga. is 0.25dB. Anything less than 1dB is inaudible. The only other explanation for a difference is if the new cables had significantly less capacitance than the old, but that is the result of a different insulation, not a heavier gauge. The difference would be heard as stronger highs, the lows would not be affected.
I use 25 feet from amp to speaker using 18 gauge before which was old and so worn . went with 12

and notice more resonce at lower volume with the Klipsch F3's still using 25 distance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24350443


The difference in insertion loss over a 25 foot run between 18 and 12ga. is 0.25dB. Anything less than 1dB is inaudible. The only other explanation for a difference is if the new cables had significantly less capacitance than the old, but that is the result of a different insulation, not a heavier gauge. The difference would be heard as stronger highs, the lows would not be affected.

0.25dB, 0.50dB, 0.75dB, etc. over an octave, or more is extremely audible to a human ear. I wish people would stop these kind of baseless generalizations. Depending on a variation of the loudspeaker's impedance, losing 0.50dB from 5kHz-20kHz, or 50Hz-500Hz can make a world of difference. And this is exactly where losses will happen with small gauge wire.


Basically thin wire rolls off the highs by a bit and the lows by a bit, leaving the most sensitive region to the ear slightly elevated. This is exactly what makes a system sound shrill, hard, unpleasant, and unnatural.
Utter nonsense.
2

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24351442


Utter nonsense.
What else would you expect from a cable quack?


OP, I know what you think you're hearing, and it's not impossible, if your old cable was defective. But you also should be familiar with the facts about cables. Beware of those who will say anything to get your money.

http://www.verber.com/mark/ce/cables.html
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OP, listen to your ears, not Internet experts.
3

Quote:
Originally Posted by NagysAudio  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24350724

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24350443


The difference in insertion loss over a 25 foot run between 18 and 12ga. is 0.25dB. Anything less than 1dB is inaudible. The only other explanation for a difference is if the new cables had significantly less capacitance than the old, but that is the result of a different insulation, not a heavier gauge. The difference would be heard as stronger highs, the lows would not be affected.

0.25dB, 0.50dB, 0.75dB, etc. over an octave, or more is extremely audible to a human ear.

0.25 dB over an octave is not audible.


0.5 dB over an octave might be barely audible under ideal conditions.


0.75 dB is only a tiny bit more audible.


This is one of those things that we can test for ourselves. Most AVRs change overall level by 0.5 dB for every click up or down on the volume control. Click up one click (0.5 dB) and see what you think.

Quote:
I wish people would stop these kind of baseless generalizations.

You don't say!
Quote:
Depending on a variation of the loudspeaker's impedance, losing 0.50dB from 5kHz-20kHz, or 50Hz-500Hz can make a world of difference. And this is exactly where losses will happen with small gauge wire.

Even a 0.5 dB across the entire audible range is maybe just barely audible under ideal conditions.


But why worry? If you have typical length speaker cables and they are 12 gauge commodity wire from the hardware or big-box improvement store, there will be no audible degradation due to it.
Quote:
Basically thin wire rolls off the highs by a bit and the lows by a bit, leaving the most sensitive region to the ear slightly elevated.

Not so much. What thin wire does is like putting a low value resistor in series with your speakers. Since the impedance of your speaker varies with frequency like this one:




the loss in the cable will vary with frequency. Low impedance load = more loss. High impedance load = less loss. Since speaker impedance curves vary all over the map, it is impossible to correctly generalize about which frequency range will be affected and how. For example this speaker:




has very low impedance above 10 KHz which means there will be more roll off in that range.


This speaker has rising impedance above 10 KHz, so the added resistance of the speaker wire will cause the response to rise:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24351642


This is one of those things that we can test for ourselves. Most AVRs change overall level by 0.5 dB for every click up or down on the volume control.
I just measured mine, the change was 1dB per click. Which makes sense, as less than that isn't worthwhile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24351713

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24351642


This is one of those things that we can test for ourselves. Most AVRs change overall level by 0.5 dB for every click up or down on the volume control.
I just measured mine, the change was 1dB per click. Which makes sense, as less than that isn't worthwhile.

Interesting. My current Denon 1913 and its predecessor Yamaha both used 0.5 dB steps. The current chips that are usually used for volume controls in HiFi gear are generally 0.5 dB (low and medium grade) or 0.25 dB (expensive stuff) per step.


Not many people write about this sort of thing, but here is an article that seems pretty good:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/technical-articles-and-editorials/technical-articles-and-editorials/options-by-supplier-and-price/page-11-single-chip-analog-avr-lsi.html


Dr. Rich says that this is the most widely used chip:

http://semicon.njr.co.jp/eng/PDF/NJU72340A_E.pdf


I can't confirm the sales statistics but I've seen it in a number of recent AVR service manuals.


and that spec sheet says 0.5 dB per step.


This is another volume control chip just 2 channels - used in older gear:

http://www.cirrus.com/en/products/cs3310.html - 0.5 dB steps


I first tested this chip in an old ISA Turtle Beach audio interface in the mid 1990s. It went out of production and it seemed like Jeff Rowland was the only guy in the universe who thought it was interesting. Then it came back with a similar part number but maybe different alphabet soup and about 8 dB better dynamic range.


and the newer hi-rez version:

http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/proDatasheet/CS3308_F1.pdf


with mo betta dynamic range, 8 channels per chip (7.1 AVR ready!) and 0.25 dB steps.


Of course these chips are generally microprocessor controlled in modern gear, and nothing stops some programmer from jumping 2 or 4 levels at a time. Voila: 1 dB steps!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24351830


Of course these chips are generally microprocessor controlled in modern gear, and nothing stops some programmer from jumping 2 or 4 levels at a time. Voila: 1 dB steps!
I'd never given it much thought before reading your previous post, so I just turned on the pink noise and my PAA2 and it read 1dB steps. Chances are the processor has better resolution, but that would just require more clicks on the remote to get a useful level change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24352030

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk  /t/1517379/difference-wireing-makes#post_24351830


Of course these chips are generally microprocessor controlled in modern gear, and nothing stops some programmer from jumping 2 or 4 levels at a time. Voila: 1 dB steps!
I'd never given it much thought before reading your previous post, so I just turned on the pink noise and my PAA2 and it read 1dB steps. Chances are the processor has better resolution, but that would just require more clicks on the remote to get a useful level change.

IME modern AVRs use steps of 0.5 dB or less, and have "intelligent" push button controlers that zoom though levels at an accelerated rate if you hold the button down for very long.
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