[MTyson]

If you know anything about these models, what are the main differences. I was thinking of getting either the WD60C9 or WD65C9, but have NO clue what the native or dynamic contrast ratios are and what the difference in contrast is compared to say a WD6037 or WD65835. I can't find the listed specs for them.


What are the main differences between the C9 series and any of the others from the list? Thanks!

 

[Magi09]

The C9 is the stripped down version. It has the fewest "Image Enhancers" most of which you'll turn off anyways.


The 737 is the midrange line. It has most of the Image Enahncers, but lacks the "Dark Detailer" which is a hardware iris that improves black level image quality.


The 837 is the high end DLP that includes the Dark Detailer (Iris), some more inputs, and a few other options like seperate day/night settings.



The 835 is basically just an 837 from last year. The 735 is more like this years C9.

 

[MTyson]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Magi09 /forum/post/16901747


The C9 is the stripped down version. It has the fewest "Image Enhancers" most of which you'll turn off anyways.


The 737 is the midrange line. It has most of the Image Enahncers, but lacks the "Dark Detailer" which is a hardware iris that improves black level image quality.


The 837 is the high end DLP that includes the Dark Detailer (Iris), some more inputs, and a few other options like seperate day/night settings.



The 835 is basically just an 837 from last year. The 735 is more like this years C9.

Does the C9 series have the iris system? Which DarkChip do these use, btw? 3 or 4?


BTW, do you know if the screen can be easily removed from the C9 series or the others without having to break anything? I know it'll void the warranty, but it's for a project. Thanks!

 

[Magi09]

Only the 83x series have the iris. Neither then 73x nor the C9's have them.


And yes, you can remove the screen without having to break anything. Not sure what kind of project you are doing, but that question suggests your TV will never work again when you're done.

 

[MTyson]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Magi09 /forum/post/16907861


Only the 83x series have the iris. Neither then 73x nor the C9's have them.


And yes, you can remove the screen without having to break anything. Not sure what kind of project you are doing, but that question suggests your TV will never work again when you're done.

Actually, the question doesn't suggest that at all whatsoever unless you know what I'm planning on doing, which btw, is not taking apart or removing the actual components inside whatsoever...just the screen.

I've taken apart my CRT projectors to calibrate or repair them....same with my DLP projectors....and that is the actual projectors themselves. For this all I need to know how to do is remove the screen and that's as far as it goes. Once the screen is off there's nothing else to do on the inside of it.


For the record. I want to put a bigger rear projection screen a foot or two in front of the screen for a front projection sized rear projector. About 110" or so. Then sell my front projectors if it works like I hope. I've turned my CRT RPTV into a giant rear screen projector, but it had a bit of color shifting from having 3 projection points, instead of one. Not too much, but I'd like to try it with DLP now.

 

[Magi09]



Quote:
Originally Posted by MTyson /forum/post/16908740


Actually, the question doesn't suggest that at all whatsoever unless you know what I'm planning on doing, which btw, is not taking apart or removing the actual components inside whatsoever...just the screen.

I've taken apart my CRT projectors to calibrate or repair them....same with my DLP projectors....and that is the actual projectors themselves. For this all I need to know how to do is remove the screen and that's as far as it goes. Once the screen is off there's nothing else to do on the inside of it.


For the record. I want to put a bigger rear projection screen a foot or two in front of the screen for a front projection sized rear projector. About 110" or so. Then sell my front projectors if it works like I hope. I've turned my CRT RPTV into a giant rear screen projector, but it had a bit of color shifting from having 3 projection points, instead of one. Not too much, but I'd like to try it with DLP now.

Good luck with that.


I think there is one very important detail you are forgetting though.



How are you going to refocus it for the altered screen distance?

 

[MTyson]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Magi09 /forum/post/16910985


Good luck with that.


I think there is one very important detail you are forgetting though.



How are you going to refocus it for the altered screen distance?

Well, I figured you'd have to be able to refocus it, but then I came across a guy who turned an LCD rear projection set (not a flat panel) into a 100" rear projector and claimed that image stayed in sharp focus by adding a foot or so of distance. People commenting were confused about how this was possible.


Here's the link: http://www.bonmul.com/convert-your-r...e-theater.html

He took the screen off of his LCD rear projection set and said from a distance of SIX feet (which would probably yield a 175-200" image) it displayed a clear, bright and fully focused image that filled his whole wall.


I was confused how this was possible as well, because when I turned my CRT HDTV into a giant rear projector I had to do a major refocusing of the lenses, but then again it works a lot differently than a digital, so maybe that has something do with it.


Anyway, I own an ultra short throw projector. The Toshiba ET20U that throws a 100" 16:9 image from 4.3 feet away. I noticed that it can vary a large amount in screen size before focus is lost.


DLP rear projection sets are even more short throw. They are super short throw and perhaps the small aperture and super short throw lens allows focus to be maintained at further distances from the original screen.


Now, I have not tested and verified this, so it'll be an expensive test if it fails. I just know it has worked with a particular LCD rear projection model, so I'm wondering if it will for DLP, which I assume uses a similar lens setup for its short throw (hopefully).


Does this super slim DLPs us a similar short throw projection lens as an LCD rear projection set (not flat panel) or does they use spherical mirrors?

 

[digdoug1]

Looking to buy one of these TV's....is the WD60737 worth the extra $200 over the WD60C9? Looks like the difference is the Deep Field Imager and the Sharp Edge. I don't want to pay $200 for something that I'll never use and/or doesn't provide any benefit, but I don't mind paying it if it's a worthwhile addition. Any input is appreciated!!

 

[videobruce]

Sharp edge you turn off,

Deep Field Imager works better for me now with it on since the lamp output dropped to normal after the first few hundred (or so) hours,

The iris is a crap shoot. It is the cause of the 'flashing' you see between some scene changes and within som scenes. It can't be turned off on a set that has the feature. As far as it helping black levels, that is highly debatable.

 

[wuzzzer]



Quote:
Originally Posted by digdoug1 /forum/post/17169773


Looking to buy one of these TV's....is the WD60737 worth the extra $200 over the WD60C9? Looks like the difference is the Deep Field Imager and the Sharp Edge. I don't want to pay $200 for something that I'll never use and/or doesn't provide any benefit, but I don't mind paying it if it's a worthwhile addition. Any input is appreciated!!

Just as an observation, my June 2009 built WD-65C9 has both SharpEdge and DeepField Imager. I can't guarantee that if you get a xxC9 series TV that yours will too. I absolutely love my C9. I do use DeepField Imager but don't use SharpEdge.


In the official 2009 Mitsubishi DLP thread one post mentioned someone contacting Mitsubishi as to what the exact differences between the C9 and 737 TVs are and Mitsubishi's reply that there was none - simply that the C9 was a Costco/Sam's, etc. model.

 

[angelgabriel]



Quote:
Originally Posted by MTyson /forum/post/16908740


Actually, the question doesn't suggest that at all whatsoever unless you know what I'm planning on doing, which btw, is not taking apart or removing the actual components inside whatsoever...just the screen.

I've taken apart my CRT projectors to calibrate or repair them....same with my DLP projectors....and that is the actual projectors themselves. For this all I need to know how to do is remove the screen and that's as far as it goes. Once the screen is off there's nothing else to do on the inside of it.


For the record. I want to put a bigger rear projection screen a foot or two in front of the screen for a front projection sized rear projector. About 110" or so. Then sell my front projectors if it works like I hope. I've turned my CRT RPTV into a giant rear screen projector, but it had a bit of color shifting from having 3 projection points, instead of one. Not too much, but I'd like to try it with DLP now.

@MTyson... Hi wondering how the project turned out. Could you provide specifics on how you constructed this, perhaps some pics? I was thinking of trying this but wanted your input. Also, since the screen area is almost 400% larger, did that affect the brightness to about 1/4 the original? thanks!