[Metallus2000]

My theater build will be in full swing this spring and summer.


The room is 13x23, 8 foot ceiling. It sits inside a bar area.








Equipment:

1. Denon AVR-X4000 (to be purchased) http://www.crutchfield.com/p_033AVX4000/Denon-AVR-X4000.html
2. Panasonic PTAE-8000U
3. 110" diag screen
4. (1 ea) Crown GFA 5300 Amp
5. (2 ea) TA242 Solid State theater Amps
6. 6 ea Smart Theater Systems SS-2 surround sound speaker.
7. Subs: TBD But, one output will be for buttkickers(or something similar).
8. (8 ea)AMC Theater seats
9. FLX-DB 14/2 speaker wire (on sale $25.00/box from a return on another theater build.)

History:


An AMC theater in New Jersey was remodeling and my brother in law scored the six speakers, eight seats and two amps from the re-model. He was fixing the guys car and asked him what he was doing in New jersey and it went from there. The speakers and amps connected are crystal clear. They do need some touch up. The veneer on the outside is mostly ok, but I want to repaint them and replace orange speaker cloth with black. Possibly build towers to attach them to(pics below).

Build:


Considering the following;

Walls:

1. Roxul insulation
2. Whisper clips
3. Hat channel
4. 5/8" OSB(first layer)
5. Green glue
6. 5/8" sheetrock. (second layer)

Walls on outside of theater, 5/8" sheetrock.

Ceiling:

1. Roxul insulation
2. Whisper clips
3. Hat channel
4. Green glue
5. 2x layer of 1/2" sheetrock.
   1. Possible star field on ceiling.
   2. Chauvet lighting

Media Room:

1. There is a closet that runs the length of the right wall. Previous owner broke through the foundation to an enclosed area under the porch. The pic with the opening shows it. Another opening is outside the theater, so I can access without going through the theater. I intend to design a secret bookcase entrance on the outside opening. I am looking for a rack system that I can mount amps and place Denon and other equipment on pull out draws.
2. Rack system(TBD)
3. Bookcase-black

 

[Metallus2000]

One possible issue, I had to drop the ceiling with 2x3's to get below the pipes running through the area. I used many screws and its tight and secure. Opinions?

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

I'm not sure I understand what you did to frame that ceiling and how is it attached?


You will need to add clips and channel to the bottom and sides of the soffits, You consumed a lot of space for that framing design that could be saved if you want to redo it.


Don't forget backer boxes for the recessed lights

 

[Metallus2000]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1527022/digital-fx-studios-home-build#post_24599356


I'm not sure I understand what you did to frame that ceiling and how is it attached?


You will need to add clips and channel to the bottom and sides of the soffits, You consumed a lot of space for that framing design that could be saved if you want to redo it.


Don't forget backer boxes for the recessed lights

The soffits were necessary, because of the pipes that run along it. The room is in the basement. I wish I could, but unfortunately that will have to stay. I might be able to reduce it, but it will still be there.


I extended the 2x3's with 4 inch screws into the original framing. Again, two pipes drop down from the upstairs and below the floor joists.


I didn't think of the backer boxes, thanks for that

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

The method I use to box pipes would have saved you 4 1/2 inches of height. You dropped the ceiling with the 2x3s assuming then the drywall just misses the pipes. You could save an inch because the clips and channel drop the drywall a little more than an inch already.

 

[230-SEAN]

Jeff, you're saying you attach the soffit to the clips/channel rather that build the soffit then put clips/channel on it, right?


-Sean

 

[Metallus2000]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1527022/digital-fx-studios-home-build#post_24599474


The method I use to box pipes would have saved you 4 1/2 inches of height. You dropped the ceiling with the 2x3s assuming then the drywall just misses the pipes. You could save an inch because the clips and channel drop the drywall a little more than an inch already.

Do you have a pic of your tray(soffit) I could see?


The pipe goes 2" below...:-(

 

[230-SEAN]

I think Jeff is referring to the concept shown in the image posted in post #3 of this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1221414/plumbing-soundproofing-question


You don't need framing under the pipe, just down the face that stops just below the pipe and a support along the wall at the same height as the bottom of the soffit face. Then the drywall bridges the gap between the two just barely below the pipe. It saves you the height that all that 2x framing you have under the pipe right now is taking from you.


-Sean

 

[Metallus2000]



Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN  /t/1527022/digital-fx-studios-home-build#post_24600030


I think Jeff is referring to the concept shown in the image posted in post #3 of this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1221414/plumbing-soundproofing-question


You don't need framing under the pipe, just down the face that stops just below the pipe and a support along the wall at the same height as the bottom of the soffit face. Then the drywall bridges the gap between the two just barely below the pipe. It saves you the height that all that 2x framing you have under the pipe right now is taking from you.


-Sean

Ah okay got it. The other reason for the soffit was to have lights along them. I might keep them as is

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Keep in mind that after clips and channel, and double layers of DW the soffits will be about 2 1/2 inches lower than they are right now. On the ceiling you could just turn the 2x3 on the flat. then when you add clips and channel you will have lowered the drywall by 1 1/2 ( 2x3) plus 1 1/8 (7/8 channel hanging in a clip) would that clear the pipes?

 

[Metallus2000]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1527022/digital-fx-studios-home-build#post_24600234


Keep in mind that after clips and channel, and double layers of DW the soffits will be about 2 1/2 inches lower than they are right now. On the ceiling you could just turn the 2x3 on the flat. then when you add clips and channel you will have lowered the drywall by 1 1/2 ( 2x3) plus 1 1/8 (7/8 channel hanging in a clip) would that clear the pipes?

Actually, as obvious as that sounds...never thought of it! I will def turn the 2x3 on the "flat" thanks!


Okay...soffits require a redo!

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Here is a shot of how clips and channel by themselves created clearance for pipes:

 

[Metallus2000]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1527022/digital-fx-studios-home-build#post_24600410


Here is a shot of how clips and channel by themselves created clearance for pipes:

I'll see if it works once I get the clips and channel in. It's going to be close.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Another installation tip, you can put little furring strips between the clip and the ceiling joist. So lets say you need 1/2 inch. Rip a piece of 1/2 inch plywood into 6 inch by 1 1/2 inches pieces, Just screw through the strips as you attach each clip, no need to do the entire ceiling. Get 1/2 inch longer screws than you originally planned. You can add additional screws or nails if you want on the ends of the strips.

 

[Metallus2000]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1527022/digital-fx-studios-home-build#post_24602018


Another installation tip, you can put little furring strips between the clip and the ceiling joist. So lets say you need 1/2 inch. Rip a piece of 1/2 inch plywood into 6 inch by 1 1/2 inches pieces, Just screw through the strips as you attach each clip, no need to do the entire ceiling. Get 1/2 inch longer screws than you originally planned. You can add additional screws or nails if you want on the ends of the strips.

When you say you don't need to do whole ceiling, you mean the 1/2 inch strips are just a bit over the size of the clips?


One concern is do I use 5/8" sheetrock or 1/2" when I add either the 1/2 inch plywood or use the 2x3's? Is what you described strong enough to hold 5/8"? Or, would 1/2" be sufficient for soundproofing?

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Theater ceilings should nearly always be two layers of 5/8 Sheet rock with Green Glue, using the 1/2 spacer strips or the 2x3 furring is irrelevant in the calculation. You check with your clip vendor to make sure the proper number and spacing of clips is used.


1/2 inch drywall sold today (Ultra Lightweight) is useless in soundproofing.

 

[Metallus2000]

Thanks. I wanted to use 5/8", just wanted to ensure it was safe to install above.


The outside walls of the theater in the hallway and bar will have 5/8" as well.


I appreciate the time and effort you guys are giving me to help on this.

 

[Metallus2000]

Might not be right forum, but I trust you guys would let me know if this is a good deal? I have 3 amps, but older. I would love to combine them into one unit such as the one below.

http://hifiheaven.net/store/Onkyo-PA-MC5500-THX-Ultra2-9-Channel-Power-Amplifier?language=en&currency=USD


I am considering the Denon x4000...but, I saw this. Discontinued, but 500 bucks cheaper.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_580TXN828/Onkyo-TX-NR828.html?tp=179

 

[Metallus2000]

Quick question. I put Roxul Safe/sound in the ceiling. I have room to add another layer. Is it worth the cost, considering I am going to put in a double layer of 5/8's with clips? Or, should I just add the pink stuff to finish it off, which is obviously cost effective.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

save your money Roxul is not superior to Fiberglass in your particular situation.