[kyrill]

Well, slowly my HT is coming off ground. It is not a dedicated HT room as I have seen from several beautiful posts out here. It is a room (former master bedroom,)which is now also my computer/office room. The floor is still full of loose cables looking organised chaotically. Any way just as slowly I use Dilard. I don't have screen fixed yet, so I am looking at an old white thin bedsheet that I guess, shines through for 30-50% at the curtains behind it and it is not flat.

I first used the black wizard on the G11 and the effects were noticeable better but not to what I expected. Before I used it I was disappointed by the light output from the screen. Too dim for me in a dark room. I zoomed in ( or is it out) to have a more but smaller bright picture at about 2mtrs wide (80 inches).That made the picture more bright. Then I used the black wizard and I had a mild weakening of the overall brightness, but only a subtle improvement in details in the dark scenes with Power DVD set to default. What was "difficult" in the black wizard was to remove a reddish colour because of the adjustments with the moving bars (the bars should almost disappear because of the easy adjustments in Red, Green and Blue mode)The wizard offered a small black and grey scale to help the tweaker to get any colour shade out of that scale. Anyway since then the balance in the colour of the picture seems much better. So was it an improvement on the thin bedscheet? Yes

I was however deeply impressed by the effects of the tracking and phase wizard. The program showed me how much my G11 was out of tracking and phase. I had to adjust a lot and after that any movie on the bedsheet (can hardly call it a screen, can I?)was so much more peaceful to the eye. My 100hz television set is not that peaceful. It had the "quietness" of a static painted oil picture on canvas.


Question not related.

I see on the "screen" two borders. the darkest border outside than a next grayer (lighter) border and then I see the blue screen if there is no sync. Only in the blue "box" I see the projector material. The borders are not small something like 2 or 3 inches. The borders come from the projector In the black room the sheetenvironment of the borders are the darkest, darker than the outmost border. It suggests to me that the blue screen is smaller than the surface of the LCD panels. Is that normal, those borders? I want to utilize every pixel that G11 is capable of.

Until my next experience with another Dilard wizard, when I have my real screen.

Ky


[This message has been edited by kyrill (edited 04-30-2001).]

 

[Mark Hunter]

Hi Kyrill,


A whole bunch of information packed into that post!


To answer your direct questions, yes, those "light borders" are normal. They are sometimes referred to as the "halo" from the projected light. The D-ILA panels do not have pixels out there, so you are not missing anything. Some folks have created a masking system to cut out the halo completely, with good results.


To answer a question you didn't ask, the "Black Level Wizard" by itself won't go all the way towards producing an accurate grayscale and "calibrated" projector. As the last step in the Wizard mentions, you really need to run the Gamma Correction Wizard next (this is coming).


I do agree that the color tint issue is annoying, and think that we could have done a better job with the test image in the Black Level Wizard itself. This is addressed in the next version of this Wizard.


It sounds like its coming along! I like this quote:

Quote:

It had the "quietness" of a static painted oil picture on canvas.

That does sound nice.

 

[Hugomed]

Has anyone else noticed this on the black level wizard.

When I set my levels I see the moving bar only on the Green , when I go to adjust the blue or red no matter how high or low setting I set I still dont see the moving bar.


Help



Thanks Hugo

 

[kyrill]

no, I did not had that. but with green I could see easily the moving bar. With red i could not see it until I "counterclockwise" the adjustments ( I had to do the opposite with what I did with green)until I could barely see the red moving bar. I forgot how it was with blue.

 

[CCLAY]

Hey Hugo http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif


I seem to recall having this conversation with you before. Do I remember correctly you saying you have seen this with your Pj sttings on all zeroes?


If so, try this: Set your B and R to max, then try the wizard again. I can't possibly believe that with those settings you won't be able to see the bars.


Just make sure you choose to get your starting point from the *Projector* instead of from a file. That way the wizard will pick up the starting point of your Pj with the higher settings.


I fiddled around with the black level wiz last night a bit and concluded(again)that we NEED the rest of the wizards to complete the proper(as Mark mentions)calibrating of our projectors. I ended up with final black level settings of RGB = 38.04, 27.06, 40.00 respectively, and ADC of 30.20. That's a far cry from my modded numbers, but I just can't take the posterizing(if that's the proper term)in lighter backgrounds anymore.


I now have a slightly better black level without the heebie jeebies in the lighter areas.


Chris

 

[Hugomed]

Thanks Chris

I'll try that tonight.

Here are my setting.

Don't remember the number after the decimal point but its 33. 36. 39.

And ADC is at 20.06


got an email from Mark and he has herd of this happening in a few other

projectors the up coming calibrated Wizard will not have to use the bar system.

Chris did you have any hot whites. My blacks are not too bad but my whites are saturated.

Something the calibration will help



Thanks Hugo

 

[CCLAY]

Hgo,


Yeah, I had hot whites. Any light shades, really. I used the term "posterizing", but maybe that's not the correct term. Anyway, I think we see the same thing.


Chris