What did Willie wind up using for a switch? Ken's 2x1 switch must be a tone switch. The tone will route the receiver's voltage path to the correct LNB, and then the voltage itself will select the correct polarity.
All 2x4 switches are voltage switches. I don't see how one could work in that application.
Dschuetz is needlessly complicating his distribution if he cascades a 4x4 into a 5x8. Simply leave the 4x4 out of the circuit, using barrel splices. I only buy the barrell splices rated to 2Gz. They make better contact on the coax center conductor. Just make sure that you know which wires are from which LNB and which one comes from the Sat B/C diplexer. You will actually get a slightly better signal-to-noise ratio this way, though the improvement may be too small to detect.
I doubt that any of your satellite C kits were furnished with hardware that doesn't fit. I hope I am not violating a Forum rule on civility in saying this, but the moron at DirecTV who selected the screw and nut combination picked one with the screwhead on the inconvenient end (top) of the assembly. Some of you may have tried screwing it in from the bottom like the other two, but the two kits I installed had different hardware and it didn't fit that way. I installed them in the dark last week, and I had to wrestle with both of them. Whereas the Sat A and B hardware screwed from the bottom, the Sat C hardware screwed from the top. Ideally, one would use an offset screwdriver to tighten this, but I wasn't carrying one. Fortunately, I was carrying a cheap, interchangeable tip screwdriver and when I took the bit out of the handle, it just fit between the screwhead and the waveguide portion of the LNBF, so I tightened that screw using a wrench across the flats of this Phillips bit.
Also, even though I figured out how to put the hardware in, it was still a tight fit. I had to first insert a screwdriver in the bottom hole to make the LNB hole and the plastic LNB mount housing line up perfectly.