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yeah i typed that in a rush ment to say should not use anything conductive and i wouldnt take anything apart in a hypex module will void warranty
The pedant in me just came leaping out.:eek: Everyone knows what you meant.:D

My rule of thumb for electronics is: "If it lasts for the 1st 10 minutes of being powered up it will last 10 years with good cooling"
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
You are going to have one heck of a 7-channel awesome amp when this is done. :cool: Good luck!
lol hope so :D Thank you.

The way I wired mine (and I believe this is correct) is AC ground to chassis, the smps has it's own chassis ground, and pin 1 of the XLR goes to the chassis. In my case I took pin 1 right from the xlr to one of the screws that fasten the connector to the chassis for each xlr. No issues.
This makes sense. Maybe a dumb questions though...would this be considered the same ground as the output ground from the SMPS?

heres a amp i built A long time ago as for the wiring this is absolutely not what u want it to look like
Are these the L20D boards? I considered those as well.

I would design the cooling to be able to handle running continuous 400W sine waves on all 7 channels without overheating so you never have a worry about something running hot .

Check out arctic silver paste to put under any heatsinks you use.

Are you wanting to run a passive cooling system?
Does fan noise matter in your install?
Some good points. I think I'm going to have more than enough airflow running through the case, even with these "low flow" 25.64 CFM fans. If they aren't enough, I can always run some higher flow fans.

I actually had some thermal adhesive left over from an aquarium LED light project I did a while back. Worked crazy well for sticking LED PCB's down, I may use it here as well. I'm going to have to cut up these heatsinks into 3-4" sections for each amp board. I think that will ensure the best contact on each amp. I'll probably use the thermal adhesive and run screws through the heatsinks into the amp boards aluminum too. Should be pretty solid.

I'll run 3-4 fans up front, so the cooling will be active. My rack is outside of the room, so noise isn't an issue (even my crazy loud iNuke is ok). But if I stay with these APEVIA fans, it will be very near silent. I've had some of these APEVIA fans for 1-2 years, they're still going strong.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Got the back panel finished today. Came out pretty well I think. After 150 holes, there isn't much plate left lol. Not really though, these front/back and side plates are all 3.2mm thick, very robust.

BTW, I only went with the Neutrik PowerCON connectors because I couldn't find an IEC plug that would allow for a circular cutout (I wasn't about to attempt to cut a pretty square in 3.2mm thick aluminum). But now that it's mounted it does look pretty cool. It also locks, and is rated for 20a at 120v, pretty nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I did a dry fit, and tried to consider air flow. According to the Hypex documentation, even under full load, the SMPS's do not need forced cooling. I will throw heatsinks on them as well anyway though. The 3rd heatsink I've got is currently 18" long and wouldn't fit in the case at the moment, but it would sit to the left of the power supplies.

It's hard to see, but I've got 2 x 12" heatsinks on the far left and right, next to the amp boards. So if I ran this layout, the amps and their heatsinks would get the most airflow.

I like this layout, but I'd need to be careful about how I route all wiring, with the power supplies in the middle like that. Although I guess +/- power lines would "spider" out to all of the amps, and then the shielded signal cables and speaker connection wires could all run along the left/right sides. I've got those plastic cable clamps, so I think I'll be able to manipulate wire pathing easy enough, and get everything locked down.
 

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I did a dry fit, and tried to consider air flow. According to the Hypex documentation, even under full load, the SMPS's do not need forced cooling. I will throw heatsinks on them as well anyway though. The 3rd heatsink I've got is currently 18" long and wouldn't fit in the case at the moment, but it would sit to the left of the power supplies.

It's hard to see, but I've got 2 x 12" heatsinks on the far left and right, next to the amp boards. So if I ran this layout, the amps and their heatsinks would get the most airflow.

I like this layout, but I'd need to be careful about how I route all wiring, with the power supplies in the middle like that. Although I guess +/- power lines would "spider" out to all of the amps, and then the shielded signal cables and speaker connection wires could all run along the left/right sides. I've got those plastic cable clamps, so I think I'll be able to manipulate wire pathing easy enough, and get everything locked down.
That looks excellent! I am very excited about your build. I would seriously consider putting one of these together myself some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
All chassis ground, yes, just at different spots. They're not all tied together in one location.

Looking good so far.
Right right, cool. Thank you sir.

That looks excellent! I am very excited about your build. I would seriously consider putting one of these together myself some time.
Thanks Dig. I've followed your 1099 builds for a while. One day I'd like to build some curved enclosure. Likely much more work than this amp lol.

Looking good.
Thanks More.
 

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ok first off move the power supplys to the right wall u want to move these as far away from the amps as possible to keep mains power which is noisy far away if it were me i would mount the heatsinks on the power supplys to the side of the chassis i would also go buy some angle steel and run that parallel to the power supply's right down the middle of the case spiting the power from the amps and run the wires through holes in it , have u read up on star grounding if u havent diy audio someone posted a good guide on how to do it and why. you dont need to worry about heat with that size of heatsinks and those being class D
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
The way I wired mine (and I believe this is correct) is AC ground to chassis, the smps has it's own chassis ground, and pin 1 of the XLR goes to the chassis. In my case I took pin 1 right from the xlr to one of the screws that fasten the connector to the chassis for each xlr. No issues.
After reading a bit and talking with my free EE consultant, I think I have a better understanding of grounding now. Spelled it out nice and simple here, I'll follow suit.

ok first off move the power supplys to the right wall u want to move these as far away from the amps as possible to keep mains power which is noisy far away
Yeah I thought somebody would say this. I'm sure I'm going to have plenty of airflow throughout the whole case, so maybe I will put the power supplies far right.
 

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Just wanted to say that the rear panel looks awesome. That's a pretty thick piece of aluminum and to drill that many holes by hand, even on a drill press, is a very tedious affair. Position, clamp, drill, blow away metal shreds, lather, rinse repeat. :eek: It looks CNC-made, so kudos to you!


Depending on how this all turns out...I may try one of these myself. Cheaper than four, 2-channel pro amps of any worth and certainly cheaper than two of the 4-channel QSC models I've looked at.


ps
A few questions, if you have a second.
How did you decide on that particular chassis/case? Everything obviously fits; just curious how/why you picked this particular one and not something else.
I've read the user manuals for the SMPS and amp modules, but how do you connect 7 amp modules to two power supplies? Spice cables together? It's my odd thought processes at work...thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Great work so far, looking good too.
Thanks Joel.

That's a pretty thick piece of aluminum and to drill that many holes by hand, even on a drill press, is a very tedious affair. Position, clamp, drill, blow away metal shreds, lather, rinse repeat. :eek: It looks CNC-made, so kudos to you!

How did you decide on that particular chassis/case? Everything obviously fits; just curious how/why you picked this particular one and not something else.
I've read the user manuals for the SMPS and amp modules, but how do you connect 7 amp modules to two power supplies? Spice cables together? It's my odd thought processes at work...thanks!
Thanks man, yeah the "vent" holes did take a while but not too bad. I punched all the holes (spring loaded punch worked very well here) through the grid paper, hit all the punch marks with a 1/16" drill bit (to create a "cleaner" and wider mark for the 1/4" bit), then drilled the actual holes with the 1/4" bit. If you step up like that, you don't need to clamp the panel down, the bit will track. I used dewalt titanium bits, they're killer and eat through aluminum quickly.

I originally thought about going the CNC route, but most companies required a CAD file, and 2U/3U projects started at around $500...too much for me. I shopped around and found this Hammond case. The super thick panels and ability to "knock-down"/replace any piece of it made it attractive. I kind of figured I would screw up some drilling somewhere (verdict is still out) and would need to purchase new panels. $13 for replacement panels sounded good to me. The ability to detach all panels obviously makes it very easy to do the drilling as well. Really great case, I recommend it. Hammond does offer different sizes and heights.

Some of the other Hypex builds I read used 3U cases, and stood the amps/PS's up. It definitely creates more room for wiring, but I did the math and saw that 7 amps/2 PS's would fit in a 16"x18" layout laying down. So I figured I would try a 2U case. It might get tight with all of the wiring, but we'll see.

3 amps (LCR) will come off 1 PS, and the other 4 amps (surround channels) will come off the other PS. The SMPS1200 maxes out at 1500 watts (1200 at 20Hz), so technically I'm shorting the surround channel amps a little bit, but I know those surround amps will never see the 400 watts they're rated for. Another quick note, the UcD amps are 93% efficient, so you can't quite do straight math either, when trying to calculate how much power supply you need. The amps run in parallel off the power supplies. I will have to splice the power lines coming off the SMPS some how.

There's alot of Hypex builds out there, I read through them and PM'ed some guys. The Hypex manuals and datasheets help alot too. I had to read through them several times before it all started to click. The datasheets have simple wiring diagrams as well.
 

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Thank you for the detailed reply, Patzig. :)


The fact that the Hammond case comes apart is very attractive indeed for drilling that back panel...or any of them for that matter. $500 to have a single panel CNC'd is WAY to steep for my blood too. That's kind of ridiculous considering you even have to supply the CAD file...you're the one doing all the work!


I figured you'd run the L/C/R off one module and the other 4 channels off the other. The fronts will see way more power than the surrounds (on a regular basis) so that makes sense. As for wiring the amp modules to the PS, I guess you could just solder the wires together, but I think a barrier strip and jumpers would be a more professional and easier-to-troubleshoot/replace solution. You'd have to find room for them but two, 10-space strips shouldn't take up too much room.
 

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Probably the best book I've ever read on amp construction is Building Valve Amplifiers by Morgan Jones. Most of it is on Google Books, but if you can find a copy cheaply, it's well worth adding to a personal library. Almost all of the construction techniques transfer directly to SS. Morgan is a former BBC engineer.

That said, I'm not particularly anal about wiring neatness as I've built many amps using clipleads to connect it all together to proto, and found little difference in the SNR of the completed, neat unit.

I don't bother building poweramps any more, but have just started to get my 'Control Unit' together into a neat, reliable unit. It's all ESS ADC and DAC with an MD in the middle, large line drivers, dynamic headphone amps and 32 channels of volume control.

Enjoy your project. One tip, don't rush to try to complete it late one evening as that's when you'll stuff something up.
 
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Awesome, can't wait to see how this turns out. I always wanted to build a hypex amp
I've been looking at this too while waiting for the uxl group buy. Interested to hear the Op's impressions, I'm looking at monoblocks with ucd 400's as well and maybe diysg speakers down the road too.
 

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Neat. I was about to start building a couple a few months ago, but with life's curve balls, I'll be waiting a bit longer.

Sure there are cheaper amps available but this way you get exactly what you want in the form factor you want.
 

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Fun looking project - spec wise what is a comparable commercial amp?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Awesome, can't wait to see how this turns out. I always wanted to build a hypex amp
Dooo ittttt.

Probably the best book I've ever read on amp construction is Building Valve Amplifiers by Morgan Jones.

Enjoy your project. One tip, don't rush to try to complete it late one evening as that's when you'll stuff something up.
Nice, thanks, I'll look that book up.

Great advice for sure. My first few speaker builds, I was in such a rush to get them finished and plugged in to see how they sounded, I didn't take the time to build nice, finished enclosures, or even enjoy the build for that matter. Now I really try to take my time and enjoy the process. A much better way to go :)

I've been looking at this too while waiting for the uxl group buy. Interested to hear the Op's impressions, I'm looking at monoblocks with ucd 400's as well and maybe diysg speakers down the road too.
I considered monoblocks too. I guess that would be a more "purist" route. All the separate power supplies really add to the cost though.

Can't say enough good things about DIYSG. Some really great designs and the kits are sold at great prices.

Sure there are cheaper amps available but this way you get exactly what you want in the form factor you want.
For sure. Always cool to build for exactly what you need. I like the minimalist approach too. I do DSP and EQ on the HTPC, so I only needed pure amplification.

Fun looking project - spec wise what is a comparable commercial amp?
Not sure. By specs, it'll do around 400 watts x 7 (1kHz, 4 ohm load,
 
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