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Dooo ittttt.



Nice, thanks, I'll look that book up.

Great advice for sure. My first few speaker builds, I was in such a rush to get them finished and plugged in to see how they sounded, I didn't take the time to build nice, finished enclosures, or even enjoy the build for that matter. Now I really try to take my time and enjoy the process. A much better way to go :)



I considered monoblocks too. I guess that would be a more "purist" route. All the separate power supplies really add to the cost though.

Can't say enough good things about DIYSG. Some really great designs and the kits are sold at great prices.



For sure. Always cool to build for exactly what you need. I like the minimalist approach too. I do DSP and EQ on the HTPC, so I only needed pure amplification.



Not sure. By specs, it'll do around 400 watts x 7 (1kHz, 4 ohm load,
 

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Discussion Starter #43
400w at 1khz and 4ohm is closer to 1% thd. Hypex shines in the lower power regimes, 200w and below is ~.03 THD and .005 at 1w. May not sound like much but since most speakers will put out 96+ db/w/m it ends up being some super clean playback at regular/close to reference listening levels.

Blazars review on NAD M22 which uses hypex amps, $3,000 for 2 channels $4,000 for the 7 channel that uses the UCD180 I believe.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...nad-m22-hypex-avantgarde-acoustics-trios.html
Yeah Blazar's good reviews of the M22 on his super sensitive horns helped me choose the Hypex UcD amps. The DIYSG speaks I'll be running should do well on these UcD400 amps.

I did power an amp up, and played a few songs through a Pure 10. The UcD400 definitely packs a punch.
 

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Yeah Blazar's good reviews of the M22 on his super sensitive horns helped me choose the Hypex UcD amps. The DIYSG speaks I'll be running should do well on these UcD400 amps.

I did power an amp up, and played a few songs through a Pure 10. The UcD400 definitely packs a punch.
Oh nice! Just connected the modules outside the case? And did you get the HxR versions or regular HG?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Oh nice! Just connected the modules outside the case?
Yeah. Real talk, I just wanted to see a UcD board light up LOL. Something about those red and blue LEDS make you feel warm inside. But yeah, I need to get setup in my room and L/R channels setup properly before I can speculate. I think I might try to finish or at least mostly finish the whole amp+enclosure before I try to do real listening. All the loose wires (especially the AC stuff) freaks me out.

Oh sorry, i need to fix the parts list. Yes, these are the UcD400HG with HxR.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Did you consider going ncore for the LCR and UCD for the surrounds ?
Nah. They've been out of stock for a while. About the same power as the UcD400, and the UcD's get such good reviews, I couldn't justify another +$220 per board. I'd want to keep the same amps for all 7 channels too.
 

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Nah. They've been out of stock for a while. About the same power as the UcD400, and the UcD's get such good reviews, I couldn't justify another +$220 per board. I'd want to keep the same amps for all 7 channels too.
I've had the same thought but that's part of the reason for mono blocks, I can swap them out for nc400's and expand to a 7+ channel system (currently only 5)

I'd like to hear both to see if it's really that big a difference but I feel like it make a bigger difference with low efficiency low impedance speakers.
 

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I've got a buddy who had another friend build him 3x ncore monoblocks. And recently a pair of stereo UCD modules for the surrounds. I am waiting for his comparison between the two.
 

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wow i didn't realize how cheap hypex has gotten since the value of the euro went into the ****ter there power supplys are about same price as chinese stuff
 

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This thread has certainly been insightful since I will soon start building my Anaview AMS1000-2600 module, and that'll be my first venture into this type of build.

More information here for those inclined (be sure to check out the spec sheet). Got one as a test as it's cheaper than Hypex and some prefer it subjectively over Nc400(!). But objectively the NC400 is superior ofc.



Another thing which is great with the AMS module is that it has onboard PSU (some will see this as a disadvantage ofc), but it makes for an even easier build. What's not so great is a rather low input impedance and possibly the need for a buffer before the module. That's way out of my league right now, but could become an interesting opportunity for learning something new.

The AMS modules are a Swedish design made in China. Can be bought using Paypal through ProfusionPLC.com if anyone is interested.



 

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Discussion Starter #54
Got the front panel done this weekend. I ended up using a jasper jig + router to cut the holes needed for the fans/grills. I used my "cheapo" bit, as I was worried the aluminum might be a little harsh to cut through, but it cut pretty clean without breaking a sweat. I did have to dodge flaming hot aluminum shrapnel though lol. I did wear eye protection. Also, applying tape to the panel before cutting was a must. I didn't on my first hole, and little bits of aluminum scraped up the front panel as I cut. It's hard to see, but I got the power switch installed as well (In the center, near the top).

I'm a sucker for LED fans, but I'm not 100% settled on them for this project. I may end up replacing them with standard non-LED fans, we'll see. With 12 volts on the fans, I was getting some pretty solid air flow coming out the back. I don't think I will have heat problems. Also, the fans + flow is nearly silent. Have to be within 3 ft to hear anything. For the fan/grill screws, I ran up to Home Depot to see what could work. 1" 10x24 machine screws ended up working really well. They seated into the grills well and threaded straight into the fan mounting holes. They aren't going anywhere. I'll have to order some 10-24 black screws from albanycountyfasteners. On that note, for anyone else contemplating a build like this...one cannot design/plan too much before buying parts. I'm pretty sure I've boosted albanycountyfasteners sales by 10% this year, buying up all the correct sizes/lengths/head types of screws for everything. Once the amp is complete, I'll try to update the BOM, to reflect exactly what screw was used for each part.

Hopefully I can start getting the guts installed soon :D
 

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Nice! Any power switch, or it'll always be on?
OP mentioned it, and if you look closely you can see the switch in the second pic in his last post. :)

I'm considering doing a VERY similar build (3ch in one box, 4-6 in another), so your existing BOM has already proved quite helpful! Looking forward to updates and your impressions!
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Nice! Any power switch, or it'll always be on?
Thanks Andersa. Yeah, just one switch up front. ON/OFF for A/C to both power supplies.

Good job, and what a meaty chassis!
Thanks Gizze. It is meaty lol...and getting pretty heavy too :D

I'm considering doing a VERY similar build (3ch in one box, 4-6 in another), so your existing BOM has already proved quite helpful! Looking forward to updates and your impressions!
Glad the BOM can help. There's so many little parts and pieces...hard to remember everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Got a little bit more done this weekend. I ended up using the thermal adhesive to mount the heatsinks to the amps. I wanted to run screws, but I think I would have gnarled up the heatsinks pretty bad trying to drill screw holes. I gave the heatsinks a little torque QC test, after the adhesive set. They all seemed pretty solid.

I decided to mount the power supplies directly to the side. It gave me a little more space inside, and distanced them a bit further from the amps. I used some heavy duty 1/2" plastic stand offs to support the free floating end. I like how that came out. There's enough room to install a shield plate in between the PS's and amps, if I have any issues with noise.

I also got all of the amps mounted. I was pleased how well they came out too...all the heatsinks lined up nice and straight.

I think I'm going to try to mount some aluminum L bracket strips from front to back at the top of the case. I'm thinking if I did that, I could attach the balanced signal cables up top, and run power supply cable + speaker cables on the bottom. That would keep things separated and hopefully avoid noise issues.

Almost ready for wiring!
 

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