[mtbdudex]

I've read quite a few threads on people making DIY lens slide.


I've finally taken a stab at my DIY project, so here goes my "DIY Alum Plate Anamorphic lens slide" build thread - Part I non motorized. Part II might be motor upgrade.


Baseline is my fixed lens attachment. It's location worked for my PJ/Lens/Screen combo, so I just wanted some robust slide mechanism.

I had 1/4" thick x 6" wide x 7' of alum plate when I built my home 6 years ago, so my thinking was instead of wood to use that for the slide.

I cut one piece 8" long (lens/slide portion) and the mtg base plate was cut 17 1/4" long, just to be slightly longer than the drawer slides.

The plate was cut in my miter saw with carbide tip blade, if at work I would have used a machine to cut it but at home the miter saw did fine.



Other materials:

-1" black pipe, (2) 1" closet flange for mtg to ceiling/slide mechanism

-Allen wrench set screws, $0.64 for 2 #10 x 32 thd x 3/8 long

-1/4 x 20 & #10 x 32 machine screws

-1/4 x 20 & #10 x 32 tap / drill combo (about $5/each)

-Tap "T" handle $6

-Drawer slide

Quote:
(2) KV 1129 center under mount drawer slides, each 35lbs rated. These are just $4.67/each from Lowes.

I planned on using both of them side-by-side.

These were designed to be used in horizontal position, not like the drawer slides I've seen others use.
http://www.knapeandvogt.com/1129_Lig...age=details.75

Stacked everything together prior to drill/tap the attachments. Noticed a few things about the drawer slides, including how to attach them parallel, and also the order of assy so I could fasten stuff.

Fine tune the layout. Originally I was going to have the lens slide towards the left wall (you see as walk in), but the vent of the Sony PJ while having dual vents I'd say about 60-70% of the airflow is on that side, so I wanted the lens to be on the side with less "hot air".

Doing a trial and studying the layout/issues trying to solve is worthwhile before actual cutting.

I also cut the drawer slide extension portion 6", so the overhang would be less n full extension mode.

I liked the stroke for removing the PJ w/o taking the a-lens off, but did not need that long a mtg since these are made for keyboards.

Drill/tap for allen set screw into 1" pipe flange, save $40 from buying a PJ mount.

Drill and tap the 1/4" alum plates per layout:

A few hours later, 90% complete:

I'll use blue loctite in the final assy after painting everything black.

 

[mtbdudex]

Next step: Hanging the slide.


It was about 10:30pm and of course I had to keep on going (this was after the 7-9pm bath/put the kids to bed ritual)


First hanging w/o lens:

RH pict you can see I'll use set screw to lock the assy square to the screen.

Lens hanging shots, I really dialed the lens so it was about 1/8" away from the PJ.

 

[mtbdudex]

Slide extension


This pict shows the lens slid to the RH about 6.5", totally clears the lens and the slides are NOT extended past the Alum plate

This shows the lens extended 9.5" and the slide plate in line with the fixed mtg plate, but the drawer glides are now sticking out and looks kinda crappy, so I'm going to only slide the lens 6.5", it clears the light path with extra.

It can extend a full 12" (max) for clearance to the PJ so PJ can be removed w/o disturbing the a-lens setup.

Sunday job:

Now that I've confirmed everyhting, take it all down and spray paint the alum plates/bolts flat black.


I'm thinking mask and paint the drawer glides where visible also, masking should cover the bearing surface so no issue there (hopefully).



Thx to others for posting their DIY method, those helped my idea come together.

 

[Magius]

Looking great mtbdudex! I really like how with the 6.5'' extension you're able to clear the lens without protruding any rails beyond the aluminum base plate. It's a trivial little thing, and it wouldn't have mattered had that not worked out, but since it works it gives it a real "clean and professional" look. Very sharp design.


Personally I'm still debating whether I'm going to use a lens sled at all or not. If I do I'd DIY it of course, but I'm leaning towards always having the lens in place. Seeing as you're making the move from fixed lens to slides, could you describe what drove that change for you? I'd be interested to learn from your experience before setting off on my own.


Also, one last question, what length of drawer slide did you start with from Lowes? Was it the shortest model? You mention cutting it down to reduce travel (and I presume to create that nice clean look with no protrusion). Could you elaborate on how you cut it? Thanks a lot and again great project!

 

[Magius]

Sorry for the double post, but I just had another thought and this seems the appropriate place to post it. You talked about a phase 2 potentially adding a motor and I was wondering if you'd thought about how yet?


Personally, I used to be very good programming PIC microcontrollers to control motors and other peripherals, but I imagine interfacing an IR device would become extremely complicated. An easier alternative might be to use some lego mindstorms parts? I don't own any myself but I understand they have IR blocks, CPU blocks, and motor blocks. Add a few gears to gear down the motor's speed and I bet you could simply tie a string (or similar stronger material) to your slide and have a lego motor reel it right in. In fact a single motor (with gears) could turn two posts opposite directions such that one can be reeling string in while the other lets it out at the same speed, and simply reversing motor direction would reverse the travel of the lens. That should be a relatively simple project, though admittedly it might ruin the refined look of your design, and I also have no idea of the costs involved.


What do legos run on anyway? AA batteries? It'd be nice if they had a wall transformer for this application but I doubt it since they're meant for little kids. Anyways, good luck with phase 2 if you do decide to pursue motorization. I'll be very interested in what you decide to do.

 

[mtbdudex]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Magius /forum/post/15395330


Looking great mtbdudex! I really like how with the 6.5'' extension you're able to clear the lens without protruding any rails beyond the aluminum base plate. It's a trivial little thing, and it wouldn't have mattered had that not worked out, but since it works it gives it a real "clean and professional" look. Very sharp design.

Magius;

Thx for the compliments, some background on myself:

I worked in High School as drafting co-op student 11th/12th grade, 1979 and 1980, then I used those skills to become a special machine designer and worked during summer/off time of college.

100% paid my way thru college for BSME by being a tool designer, heck I was making $12/hour in 1984, not bad $$'s.

(not the place for this rant, but why do "todays kids" feel it is their parents duty to pay for their college instead of earning $$'s by working? Work ethic is so important and I feel lacking in many today, too many people feel entitlement to something not earning it)

My High School drafting teacher, Mr Herzog, was a strict marine who stressed the details. He helped many a stray kid onto a career path of drafting. I owe a lot to him.


Here are some old pics of 2 special machines I designed and were built in our shop, Neumann Manufacturing in Madison Hts, Mi, circa 1984.

I've even kept one of my "bible's" (besides the special machinery handbook), anybody who worked in the business will recognize this, I knew every page and all the various metal/alum specs/usages.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magius /forum/post/15395330


Personally I'm still debating whether I'm going to use a lens sled at all or not. If I do I'd DIY it of course, but I'm leaning towards always having the lens in place. Seeing as you're making the move from fixed lens to slides, could you describe what drove that change for you? I'd be interested to learn from your experience before setting off on my own.

Good Q, why'd I go down this path when My Sony VPL-VW60 has a compress mode so I can view 16:9 material in 16:9 thru the lens?

Mainly I wanted the highest PQ for "Big sports games"/non scope material, and no matter how good the lens/scaler is each introduces small tradeoff's.


I will study now the 16:9 "natural image" w/o a-lens and same 16:9 "compressed/expanded" image that goes thru my Sony PJ image compressor and then the a-lens expander.

I've not seen a study here that shows that in any detail, picts/etc.

(if others, Aussie Bob/CAVX/etc, have done that please post link, you founding fathers can teach many of us your knowledge)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magius /forum/post/15395330



Also, one last question, what length of drawer slide did you start with from Lowes? Was it the shortest model? You mention cutting it down to reduce travel (and I presume to create that nice clean look with no protrusion). Could you elaborate on how you cut it? Thanks a lot and again great project!

I wanted to fully clear the PJ to remove it w/o taking the a-lens off - once dialed in I want to keep it there, so I needed 12" stroke.

The "Knape and Vogt" undermount drawer slide 16.7"CENTER UNDERMOUNT - 1 EA.

SKU: 1129P ZC 16 " I bought from Lowes fit the bill, it had 12" stroke and was 16.7" long fully closed.

So no, not the shortest model, rather it fit my design parameters, sorta, I had to still modify it.

I did not like how it stuck out over the mtg plate edge even at 6.5" stroke, so I cut 6" with a simple scroll saw using metal cutting blade, the slides I put in a vise with wood blocks to spread out the pressure from vise so no damage to the slide.

Actually used an edge of the wood block to guide the scroll saw edge for a straight cut. Filed off small burrs.

I could not cut off more than that because the bearing plate assy need some fixed area for it's travel, I played with the slides open/shut to see most I could cut off.

Finally, cleaned all the metal shaving via WD40 and air compressor, even a little burr will cause the bearings to jam up.


This is a home brew DIY project, anyone with basic shop skills should be able to do the same. All items HD/Lowes bought, no special shop tools used.

(so far at least)


Hopefully answered your Q's.

 

[mtbdudex]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Magius /forum/post/15395347


Sorry for the double post, but I just had another thought and this seems the appropriate place to post it. You talked about a phase 2 potentially adding a motor and I was wondering if you'd thought about how yet?


Personally, I used to be very good programming PIC microcontrollers to control motors and other peripherals, but I imagine interfacing an IR device would become extremely complicated. An easier alternative might be to use some lego mindstorms parts? I don't own any myself but I understand they have IR blocks, CPU blocks, and motor blocks. Add a few gears to gear down the motor's speed and I bet you could simply tie a string (or similar stronger material) to your slide and have a lego motor reel it right in. In fact a single motor (with gears) could turn two posts opposite directions such that one can be reeling string in while the other lets it out at the same speed, and simply reversing motor direction would reverse the travel of the lens. That should be a relatively simple project, though admittedly it might ruin the refined look of your design, and I also have no idea of the costs involved.


What do legos run on anyway? AA batteries? It'd be nice if they had a wall transformer for this application but I doubt it since they're meant for little kids. Anyways, good luck with phase 2 if you do decide to pursue motorization. I'll be very interested in what you decide to do.

Like I stated above, my control logic knowledge is 20+ years old from my special machine designer days, so I'm outta touch with the latest gadgets.

But, this will help me research and learn the new/cool stuff that's out there.

I'll actually consult with some of the guys at work who design jigs/fixtures (I work for automotive OE and we have full in house testing capabilities) on what they'd do, and keep it from the viewpoint of a DIY'er with basic shop skills and home tools.

As long as items are available to be bought HD/Lowes or online I'm ok, I don't want some special order bearing rails/bushings/whatever.

If I can buy and build this in my humble home shop, than anyone can.


I'm looking for something affordable, robust, and with good visual PQ also.

Read the Lego thread and while that seems neat, I'm not sure the long term robustness of it. I like the DIY spirit of that very much.


My timetable for Phase 2 honestly is late Spring/Summer, many other things have priority now.

But lunchtime/other I'll be planning/researching "how to approach the problem" to get a workable concept in my mind, and will post here as idea(s) come to fruition.

 

[Magius]

Thanks mtbdudex for the detailed explanation. That's quite the background you have!


For the record, you caught me with this particular line: "anyone with basic shop skills should be able to do the same"

. You see, while you spent your time in high school drafting and machining, I was programming TI calculators and Apple II's. It's embarrassing to admit but until 3 days ago my only power tool was a cordless drill, unless you count the dremel tool I bought to mod my Roomba. A different set of skills here to be sure, but I'm hoping to learn and fumble my way through as you've begun to see in my screen build topic.


I'd be curious to see your results and opinions of a 16:9 comparison with and without A-lens in place. I don't believe that the Panny AE3000 (my likely PJ) has the necessary compress mode to leave the lens in place without screwing up geometry, so that's another whole variable... In any case, I'm going to build a screen first, trophy lens enclosure second, and slide mount third, if at all. By then if all goes well I might have developed some of those "basic shop skills" you referenced and this project might not seem so daunting.

 

[oman321]

Simply Beautiful work. Gotta love it...

 

[mtbdudex]



Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/15403399


Simply Beautiful work. Gotta love it...

Thx, it feels nice to start and finish a project.


Now, she's all painted flat black and really matches the Black Pearl PJ!


I sprayed the alum plates/hardware, but for the drawer slides I decided to use a brush to keep the bearing surfaces free of paint/contaminate.


Mark and scribe pieces before dis-assembly/paint.

Quick paint booth in basement utility room - too cold to paint in the garage workshop. Since everything was apart I really dialed in the PJ for level/etc with laser level.

A few hours later, completely painted.

Also, added end stop for lens in non-used position, 6.5" stroke. I can remove that and get full 12" stroke if I want to remove/service the PJ itself.

Compared to non-painted.

A few more painted.

You can see "hard stop" for the lens "off" position here, I can remove that to fully extend the lens 100% past the PJ if I want to remove the PJ.

This is my el-cheapo version of the manual slide offered by Panamorph, http://www.panamorph.com/ModelUH480.html#M380

After adjusting the PJ with laser level, I followed AussieBobs info (via his excel spreadsheet) on lens tilt degrees and image in the center of both sides of the lens, then I followed Panamorphs info:

Quote:
Panamorph UH480 User Manual and Installation Guide, Version 1.2, copyright June, 2008, all rights reserved.

Page 7

FINAL ADJUSTMENTS (ALL INSTALLATIONS)


1. Turn the projector on with the UH480 Lens out of the projector beam. Set the horizontal

lens shift to neutral (if a feature of your projector) and then adjust the ceiling mount so that the

16:9 image is in the exact center of and square to the screen, with a similar amount of image

slightly over the top and bottom screen borders. If the projector lens is not in the exact

horizontal center of the screen you may need to use a little horizontal lens shift for this

purpose.


2. Bring the UH480 Lens into the beam. Adjust the vertical position and tilt of the Lens so

that the projector beam is passing through the center of the Lens and so any residual

pincushion distortion is about the same at the top and bottom of the image. This will typically

result in the UH480 Lens lens being below the center of the projector lens and tilted slightly

downward. Tighten the knobs.


3. Adjust the rotation of either the M380 or MTH1 transport so that the left and right sides

of the image are an equal distance from their respective screen borders. Now tighten the Pivot


Screw (M380) and also the four remaining screws holding the transport to the Attachment

Plate.


4. For optimum multiple aspect ratio performance, adjust the projector’s zoom so that a

1.85:1 aspect ratio movie (Panamorph “out”) is just masked by the top and bottom of the

screen border. This way 1.85:1, 16:9 and 2.35-2.4:1 aspect ratio movies should all be

presented to fill the screen at a constant height.

Now time for some screen shots in that other thread.


That's it, this project is DONE!!!

Now, a few days break to enjoy life, New Years, and then time to tackle the AV sliding media storage shelfs

 

[mtbdudex]

Version 1.1 minor enhancement:

After using a few times I see the need to add positive stop to full lens "on" position instead of relying on the slide rails built in bearing slide plate hitting the tab on the encasing rail.

While that appears positive in reality you can force it past that and muck up the bearing plate placement.


Therefore, anyone else making DIY slides with undermount drawer slides put into your design positive stops at both ends, mine has one in lens "off" position only for now.


You can make them "hard" stops if you calculate closely the on/off position, or better yet rotate them to be in-plane with the slide and therefore adjustable for precise location.

One method, mount an angle bracket on the top plate upside down, and then that would hold some adj screw.

Make sure you have rubber at end to absorb the "stop shock", I used some hard foam piece from speaker wall mounting, but that does not look so good and I'm looking for small rubber cap to go over the 1/4-20 bolt head.

 

[nibix kfrundi]

Mike,


Great looking sled. I am looking forward to your analysis of image quality with and without the lens on 16:9 material.

 

[HDGTX]

Mike,


Ran across this little microprocesser / motor driver combo from Picaxe, the Picaxe-08 Motor Driver (~$15). While it can only provide 800mA @ 4.5V to drive a small motor, you can solder in their IR upgrade & then use a Sony remote ctl. This small chip has a limited amount of memory space, but should be enough to control a lens slide. Take a look & see if it might have promise for what you want to do.

http://www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=677


John

 

[surrealdreampilo]

Nice work Mike. Panamorph should be ashamed to charge what they do for that piece of crap sled they sell. I've installed that sled before and it is very cheaply built. It's not refined at all, there's way too much yaw play, enough that even in a pretty short throw distance it will shift the image by a few inches. I can't comment on their automated version of it since I haven't dealt with it yet, but their cost on that is so outrageous that I doubt I ever will. I could throw away a third of what they want for it on R&D'ing my own version and I'd end up with a better product in the end.

 

[sstephen]

I know this thread is rather dated, but I have thought about a sled for a while, and since I'm doing some work on the home theatre, I started thinking about it again.

Here is another simple motor controller .

IR would be up to you, but this motor controller can do 5 amps, which should increase your options.


Are drawer slides acceptable? I would have thought there was too much play in them. Admittedly, the only thing that counts is where the lens is positioned when you are done, but I was wondering if there was too much slop to get the image consistently placed on the screen.

 

[mtbdudex]



Quote:
Originally Posted by sstephen /forum/post/18720752


I know this thread is rather dated, but I have thought about a sled for a while, and since I'm doing some work on the home theatre, I started thinking about it again.

Here is another simple motor controller .

IR would be up to you, but this motor controller can do 5 amps, which should increase your options.


Are drawer slides acceptable? I would have thought there was too much play in them. Admittedly, the only thing that counts is where the lens is positioned when you are done, but I was wondering if there was too much slop to get the image consistently placed on the screen.

After 1.5+ years the drawer slides work fine, zero play, repeatable.

If I had to do it again, no reason to change.

Forum member "larrychief" took my concept and added motor control, I tried to find a post of that but can't just now.

Maybe he PM'd/emailed me a Powerpoint presentation, I'll have to look.

 

[larrychief]

I believe Mike is correct...I have a PPT file with pictures of my copy of his design, and with the additional steps I used for motor control. It has worked perfectly since installation last year. Happy to provide the PowerPoint on request...'[email protected]'


Larry

 

[mtbdudex]

Quote: Originally Posted by larrychief

I believe Mike is correct...I have a PPT file with pictures of my copy of his design, and with the additional steps I used for motor control. It has worked perfectly since installation last year. Happy to provide the PowerPoint on request...'[email protected]'

Larry


I found the quicktime video Larry sent me a while ago and uploaded to YouTube, here is his powered slide in action.

 

[TMcG]

@mtbdudex - Could you repost the link to the video above? It's broken. Thanks!

 

[mtbdudex]

Fixed !
(many YouTube videos got mucked up in the forum software change last year...)