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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I've read a couple of mentions of plans for a DIY anamorphic lens. I even tracked down the German forum that has the info. Unfortunately, I don't read German and the online translators didn't do a very good job on the text.


So who reads German who is interested in DIY anamorphic lens plans who could translate for us?


This could be an interesting little project. I'm kind of surprised there hasn't been more attention on it here.


(edited to change references to [p] anamorphic)
 

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The thing is I bet it would run you 2 - 3 hundred and a lot of time at best to look pretty cludgy... When there is a Pannie in the classifieds for 500 USD (I just spotted it and mine was for sale at about 1200 :( !!) wheres the incentive...
 

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My DIY panamorph works great, the picture is very sharp. Total costs for my version $50. There is also a double prism version which works even better than my single prism version.
 

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Not to be a stick in the mud, but to call any DIY device a Panamorph is innacurate and a disservice to the inventor and patent holder. Why not change the thread title to DIY anamorphic prism device?


I don't mean to be a jerk, it just appears that way. ;)
 

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Jerk!


;-)


Jeff
 

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:)
 

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Here a guy makes a vertical compression anamorphic lens from pieces of glass. I'll explain roughly what it says make it easier to understand for those who find german to be greek. :)

http://ww2.bepo.com/jochen/anamorph


The pictures are pretty self-explanatory. Except I don't know what museums-glass is. He got some sort of glass cutter intended for "Tiffany-work", whatever that is. I guess it's some kind of hobby-tool.


The parts he used:


Museums-glass

Pictureframe-glass

Plexiglass (optional)

Brasspipes (4 mm diameter, 15 mm length)

Rubber hose ( 4 mm internal diameter)

5 minute epoxy-glue

Alcohold for degreasing

Destilled water (possibly boiled too)

Some substance for conserving the water and preventing algea-buildup

Black color


There is also a picture describing how to mount the two prisms to get 16:9. Click "Der Zusammenbau ".


Does anyonw know why he used terpentine oil for one of the prisms and water for the other?

Couldn't he just use water for both?

Is it because of the heat from the projector maybe?

How does one drill glasss?


I want to try making one.



Tor Arne
 

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Museums-glass = glass with no reflections.


You need two fluids with different refraction indexes to correct the optical dispersion.


The double prism version is not shown on this webpage.
 

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Very cool guys. Thanks for digging this up.


tahustvedt

He doesn't drill glass, although you could with a diamond bit, he used plexiglass for the end caps of the prisms. They aren't involved in the light transmission so this is okay.


As far as using museum glass, I suspect if you used the same type of optical glass used in the hushboxes built around here so frequently you'd accomplish the same thing, high transmittance, low reflection. The whole thing seems pretty simple to build. Six pieces of glass to cut, four pieces of plexiglass and an adhesive to join them together. I liked the photo of his friend's version that was switchable in terms of compression by flipping an external lever to re-angle the prisms. Nice idea, you don't need to remove the device even when you aren't interested in compressing your output.


I love this forum!
 

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This is really cool. I was just explaing to my wife last night how we were loosing 1/4 of our resolution and lumens on 2.35 material on our plv-60. I can't see spending $1000 to overcome this problem but this might just be the ticket.


Is there any info on the amount of light that is lost with this method. I no that the Panamorph claims that none is lost. It think the Prisma-whatever claims to be a wash. Even if it was a wash it would be worth it for the extra resoltution.


Can someone enlighten me about what "dual prism" means?


I would love to try this project out and document it on a web site so that others can more easily attempt it.


Off to find Museums-Glas. :)


Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by bonfigleo
Off to find Museums-Glas. :)
I wonder if the optical glass from Edmund scientific would be good for this?
 

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Matt,


The article describes the creation of two prisms. Picture them as triangular boxes. One box is filled with distilled water and the other is filled with turpentine. Each box, or prism, has it's own angle of difraction, and the two combined serve to compress the image vertically. If you're a fisherman, you'll have observed how light bends under water when you tried to net that fish and missed as it was just over from where you dipped.
 

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DHENRYP,


Every substance has a different refractive index, basically the refractive index (n) of a substance is defined as:


n = Vv / V


Where Vv is the velocity of light in a vacuum, and V is the velocity of light in the substance.


Light slows down when it enters a substance, so the refractive index will always be greater than 1.


I hope that helps. If it doesn't too bad because I've just expended the sum total of my knowledge on refractive indexes. :)


Regards,

Glenn
 

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I'm not into cutting and drilling glass, but it looks like it would make a really fun DIY kit...

http://ww2.bepo.com/jochen/anamorph/Images/TGlas1.jpg


If there are any entrepreneurs out there...please cut 100 kits when you build your own...and let me know when I can buy one of these from you! Looks like fun.


Make sure to include good directions...and put those little "A", "B", "C" stickers on everything so I know what part is what. Sell them with a Paypal account.


Fun, fun.
 

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I have access to all the plexiglass I want at work. I'll try to mock something up together with small picture frames, fill it with water and see what happens. It should be simple to do.


It's certainly worth a try, it might save me $500+ :)


My dead pixel might also become too small to see with a lens like this. :)



Tor Arne
 

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It will not work if you build two prisms and fill them with water. You will get some dispersion at the top and at the button of the image. If you choose turpentine oil for the first prism and if you have the right degrees, then the second prism will correct the dispersion.
 

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Ok, I'll fill the first with turpentine oil. The plexiglass will probably react and melt in contact with the turpentine oil so I will have to use aluminium for the ends since I can't cut glass (yet). In the website discussed here he used glass for the ends of the first prism and had two brass pipes coming out of the glass plate. That's why I asked how to drill glass earlier. :)


I will of course have to be very careful to get the angles right. But will the angles he used work for my short-throw projector?



Tor Arne
 

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Tahustvedt,


The site actually says plexiglass according to the Google translation:


Around me the work (particularly boring) to make somewhat easier I cut the "cover" of the water prism from plexiglass. Works e.g. with a leaves saw completely well. Into this "cover" I bored then two 4mm Loe.


A hole is for the brass tube, the other one an auxiliary hole to fills the prism.
 

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One picture says: "Seitenteile aus Bilderrahmen Glas" - Sidepieces of picture frame glass.


Another picture says: "Für das Wasser-Prisma Seitenteil aus Plexiglas" - For the water-prism, sidepieces of plexiglass.


This makes me believe he used plexiglass only for the water-prism. I could be wrong. Anyway, the pieces don't have to be of glass, do they? They're not supposed to reflect any light anyway. I could make a frame from aluminium which I just glue the front and rear pieces of glass to in the right angles. This would give fewer glue-joints and a cleaner look


BTW. I have discovered that it's quite easy to cut glass if you can find the tool.



Tor Arne
 
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