[Reserved 1]
-
Take part in a short activity and share your valuable opinion on new design concepts for AVSForum! >>> Click Here
-
Our native mobile app has a new name: Fora Communities. Learn more.
DIY AT Screen Build out
Hello Folks - I am starting this build thread to document the DIY build out of AT screen for my basement home theater. I am working very closely with @MississippiMan who is guiding me through the design. I will post pictures as I go through the build. For now, I have provided the equipment choice and room layout below. I have also provided the design from @MississippiMan
Equipment
LCR - JBL Studio 590s (purchased)
Right and Left Surrounds - JBL Studio 580s (purchased)
Subwoofer - Researching a sub under $300
Projector - Potentially Epson 4010
Receive - Denon 4400h (purchased)
Room layout and frame design - See attached.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Equipment
LCR - JBL Studio 590s (purchased)
Right and Left Surrounds - JBL Studio 580s (purchased)
Subwoofer - Researching a sub under $300
Projector - Potentially Epson 4010
Receive - Denon 4400h (purchased)
Room layout and frame design - See attached.
3
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Openings framed out on left and right side for entering from back of screen wall.
![]()
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Today I added cross supports between the 1st and 2nd joists to provide top support for something to anchor to when the AT screen is constructed. My initial way of doing this is in the last picture and it was extremely unstable. @MississippiMan provided the attached diagram which made me realize I need to do this different. So I stripped out what I did and instead did it with the design provided. Key factors to success were:
1. Space was very narrow at top. Kreg jig was incredibly useful to make pocket holes.
2. For connecting the lower 2x4 to the upper 2x4 I used powerpro all purpose screws. They were awesome. They had a self drilling tip and a circular head to help drive without difficulty. Much better than wood or drywall screws.
![]()
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
1. Space was very narrow at top. Kreg jig was incredibly useful to make pocket holes.
2. For connecting the lower 2x4 to the upper 2x4 I used powerpro all purpose screws. They were awesome. They had a self drilling tip and a circular head to help drive without difficulty. Much better than wood or drywall screws.
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
The Framing Blocks you installed are great for structurally supporting the actual Screen Wall, but each side of the Room still needs support for the Speaker Walls.
The same method you used to add some support between the Rear Wall and the 1st Ceiling Joist at the PJ location will be just fine for the Right & Left Screen Wall Top Plates.
![]()
The 2x4 Tight Fit Blocking sets on the 3/4" Ledge of the 2nd I-Beam Truss...Glued & Screwed. 30" long will be sufficient.
The same method you used to add some support between the Rear Wall and the 1st Ceiling Joist at the PJ location will be just fine for the Right & Left Screen Wall Top Plates.
The 2x4 Tight Fit Blocking sets on the 3/4" Ledge of the 2nd I-Beam Truss...Glued & Screwed. 30" long will be sufficient.
Attachments
Thanks. Please see attached. It was a bit difficult but got done with one side. Due to the narrow gap the bottom 2x4 is not anchored to both joists. It is stable but still a little bit of play is there if I shake it hard. This I suspect is because it's not anchored to the second joist and should be fine for our application for a support for the screens. The length of the 2x4 is about 36 inches with the bottom 2x4 anchoring itself to the top 2x4 at the center, left and right locations (three screws). Let me know if you have any further changes. Else I will replicate this on the other side.The Framing Blocks you installed are great for structurally supporting the actual Screen Wall, but each side of the Room still needs support for the Speaker Walls.
The same method you used to add some support between the Rear Wall and the 1st Ceiling Joist at the PJ location will be just fine for the Right & Left Screen Wall Top Plates.
![]()
The 2x4 Tight Fit Blocking sets on the 3/4" Ledge of the 2nd I-Beam Truss...Glued & Screwed. 30" long will be sufficient.
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
One Drywall is overlaid and screwed in place to the surrounding Joists and the Beam, and also screwed to the Bracing, the entire assembly will be a considerable strength...certainly strong enough to provide anchoring support for both of the 20" wide Speaker Wall Top Plates.
The Speaker Wall / Screen Wall Base Plates should have floor Anchors shot through them, but in lue of that possibility, the use of a strong Adhesive such as "Fuze-it" would...along with the tie in to the side walls...provide very sufficient rigidity.
So now we wait for Drywall and Paint, and then the framing and installation of the Spandex can commence. Who knows but when Halloween rolls in, you could be watching Freddie Kluger or Pennywise.......
The Speaker Wall / Screen Wall Base Plates should have floor Anchors shot through them, but in lue of that possibility, the use of a strong Adhesive such as "Fuze-it" would...along with the tie in to the side walls...provide very sufficient rigidity.
So now we wait for Drywall and Paint, and then the framing and installation of the Spandex can commence. Who knows but when Halloween rolls in, you could be watching Freddie Kluger or Pennywise.......
Thanks. There is a small bit of distance between where the ceiling support ends and where the first cross piece starts. Is that ok?One Drywall is overlaid and screwed in place to the surrounding Joists and the Beam, and also screwed to the Bracing, the entire assembly will be a considerable strength...certainly strong enough to provide anchoring support for both of the 20" wide Speaker Wall Top Plates.
The Speaker Wall / Screen Wall Base Plates should have floor Anchors shot through them, but in lue of that possibility, the use of a strong Adhesive such as "Fuze-it" would...along with the tie in to the side walls...provide very sufficient rigidity.
So now we wait for Drywall and Paint, and then the framing and installation of the Spandex can commence. Who knows but when Halloween rolls in, you could be watching Freddie Kluger or Pennywise.......
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
He is undoubtedly referencing the Diagram seen in your first Post in the thread. HERE
The Reason being that the RLC Array's imaging across the Front Sound Stage is best when all Speakers are as close to the same level.
The Center is ideally placed behind the Screen, and as close to being centered on both axis. Also, to be able to maintain as much depth for the Center, it must not have to sit back the full distance (depth) of the Screen Frame / Bottom Frame.
Attachments
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
