[ckenisell]

Can anyone point me in the right direction?


I'm hooking up the Parasound Halo C1 to the M&K 150Ps .


What type of Balanced XLR cable should I be looking for? What about the connectors? I can do the soldering myself, I just need resources for brands/specifications/etc.


Thanks,

 

[ckenisell]

Anyone?

 

[KurtBJC]

Neutrik XLRs are really nice; not only are they solid and have good strain relief, but they're easy to terminate, with huge solder cups. I much prefer the assembly method on them to the screw-type shells (Switchcraft, etc).


As for cable choice, there are a lot of good ones out there...I personally like Belden 1800F (very flexible, and the drain wire makes it quick to terminate). Lots of people also like the Canare star quad, L4E6S--more of a pain to terminate, higher capacitance, but higher noise rejection if you're in an application where that's critical.

 

[ckenisell]

Dude, thanks Kurt! I've been looking at the Neutriks, but I can't figure out which one I need. X-Series? Is that their high-end line that you refer to? Their site isn't very specific when it comes to applications.


I'll look into that cable now.


Thanks again,

 

[ckenisell]

Oh also, are Neutrik connectors only sold online or do you think I'll be able to find a dealer in Houston?

 

[KurtBJC]

Neutriks shouldn't be too hard to find locally. I'd look for a place that sells professional audio gear, or a broadcast supply house, or something of that sort.


As for which Neutriks--the ones I've seen are pretty much all the same, the big difference being in the coating on the pins. I use the gold-plated X-series ones, which are the NC3MX-B and the NC3FX-B (for male and female). I don't recall if they make anything in the way of an el-cheapo version, but all of the ones I ever see are physically about the same; they have a boot that screws on the rear, which tightens down a sort of a strain relief clamp with little teeth that engage the cable jacket. I think there's a heavy duty version, and some sort of "easy assembly" version, but frankly, the X-series ones are so easy to assemble that I can hardly imagine what could be made much easier. You should be able to pick these up for around $3.00 each or less.

 

[ckenisell]

Cool. Thanks for the info Kurt! I really do appreciate it.

 

[Johnla]

If you can't find them local. There is always Parts Express.

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....WebPage_ID=143

 

[bpape]

Also check out the GEPCO 5596M cable.


For VERY little more than raw material cost, AVCABLE.COM will make them up for you with top line Neutriks. AVCABLE is GEPCO's in-house cable shop.


I run these from my Theta to my Sunfire Amp for LCR and for LFE. They are a very nice, flexible, good sounding cable that does not cost a fortune. I haven't found anything else in a balanced cable that will significantly outperform them without getting ridiculous price wise.

 

[apatel]

I would definitely agree with bpape, I just spent the weekend making 9 XLR cables (75 ft each!!!!) to contect my Lexicon MC12b to a rack of Proceed amps and the results were outstanding. I used the GEPCO 5596M cable and Neutrik conectors.

 

[ckenisell]

Thanks guys. You're making this easy for me to decide now.


You ROCK!

 

[amnesiacv2]

I've always wondered, what are the benefits to balanced connections? I have had plenty of experience with them from being a sound tech back in high school but never bothered to look into why they were better than standard speaker cable.

 

[tvtech1]

Quote:

I have had plenty of experience with them from being a sound tech back in high school but never bothered to look into why they were better than standard speaker cable.

WHy compare a balanced interconnect to an unbalanced speaker cable?

Apples and oranges.

 

[ckenisell]

Thanks everybody,


I ended up getting 5 female and 5 male Neutrik 3-prong connectors.


So my next question revolves around your cable recommendations:

Looking at the GEPCO 5596M .
http://www.samashpro.com/images/items/G5596MXXX.jpg

I see one purple and one white cable in there. So, what do I hook up to the third prong?


Am I correct in assuming that a 2-prong connection = unbalanced and a 3-prong connection = balanced?


It also looks like the Belden 1800F is only two wires as well.
http://www.avw.co.nz/images/1800.gif


The Canare star quad L4E6S looks pretty promising with four wires.
http://www.electroniccity.com/shopping/images/l4e6s.gif

Is this my best bet?


Also, if I use a 2-wire cable with a 3-prong connector, which posts do I solder the wires to? On the Neutrik connectors, the posts are numbered.


Thanks to all!!!

 

[tvtech1]

Quote:

I see one purple and one white cable in there. So, what do I hook up to the third prong?

Connect the sheild to pin 1

Quote:

It also looks like the Belden 1800F is only two wires as well.

2 wires plus sheild = 3 conductors.

Quote:

which posts do I solder the wires to?

Pin 1 = ground (sheild)

Pin 2 = + audio

Pin 3 = - audio

 

[ckenisell]

Thanks tvtech1! Take a look at my attachment. Are the arrows pointing to the shield wire that you're referring to?

 

[tvtech1]

Yes, the sheild is the braded or foil part, the drain (arrow) wire makes it easier to solder it to the connector.

 

[ckenisell]

OK, I just want to make sure I have this right. (I appreciate your patience with me.) Please see attachment.


The wire with the arrow is connected to the braided shielding of the wire and it solders onto pin 1?

 

[tvtech1]

Quote:

The wire with the arrow is connected to the braided shielding of the wire and it solders onto pin 1?

Yes, the drain wire runs along the cable with the sheild, they are in physical contact with each other.

Some cables don't have a drain wire, in that case, you'd have to unbraid part of the sheild to allow it to be soldered into the connector. The drain wire makes this connection easier, and is necessary in cables with a foil sheild only.

 

[ckenisell]

Poy-fect!


Thanks!


Time to measure and place my order.