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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering if any HS10 owners out there built their own

DIY ceiling mounts?

If so, what parts did you use, and I'd like to see some pictures too.


My HS10 should be here this week and I was thinking of making my

own mount, but if it's going to be too much trouble, then getting

the Chief or Peerless mount might be better.


I am under the impression that being able to adjust the vertical height

of the projector would be the most important, followed by being able

to tilt it.

If the pj is completely level, and I was able to adjust it vertically(ie. controll

the height/distance from the ceiling), then would the need to tilt/yaw be

really that important?
 

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In my basement, the HVAC runs through the middle of my room (24'x17')

I mounted drawer slides to my ceiling. I then mounted other piece to a piece of oak (24'' X 24''). I then mounted my projector to the piece of oak.

I can adjust the tilt of the projector by changing the length of bolt that is screwed through the oak, into the projector. I can change the angle (left /right ) by twisting the projector on the oak plank ( the two back bolts can pivot through slots in the oak plank). I can adjust the distance to the screen somewhat also by sliding it like a drawer.

It cost me about $30 and a couple of hours to complete. I can send some pictures if this sounds like something you might be interested in.

Also, I can check what size the bolts are that fit into the HS10 for mounting.
 

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Here is my DIY mount for the HS10. Parts list:

- metal T-shaped bracked (used for T joints of joists in construction from DIY shop)

- 3 x M5 bolts around 2.5 inches long (these screw into the HS10)

- 3 x M5 wing nuts

- 9 washers

- 3 x coil springs that will fit over M5 bolts and about 3 inches long uncompressed

- 1 x M10 (or similar) bolt about 5 inches long

- 1 x empty plastic wire solder core (usually red?) or similar

- mat black spray paint can to paint bracket, solder core and big bolt


Coil springs go betw underside of metal bracket and projector. Projector can be rotated and tilt is adj by winding up/down the wing nuts. For every M5 bolt use one washer above metal bracket (under wingnut), one underneath metal bracket (betw bracket and coil spring) and one betw projector and bottom of coil spring. The 3 holes through the metal bracket for the M5 bolts should be large anough to allow slight tilting of the bolts though the bracket (hence the need for washers). I only had to drill the larger hole for the big M10 center bolt as the bracket already had 6 holes of which 3 were aligned with the HS10 mounting holes. The shelf can also be adjusted up and down for major adjustment.


Construction should be self evident from pictures (notice CC40R filter taped to lens cover):


http://download.novascape.com/HS10/HS10Mount1.jpg
http://download.novascape.com/HS10/HS10Mount2.jpg
http://download.novascape.com/HS10/HS10Mount3.jpg
 

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Hi Xander,

I think I'm going to steal your idea of the springs. They will help resolve a couple small issues I was having.

I couldn't easily use a method like yours, due to the HVAC dropdown

and I wanted to be able to adjust the zoom more than the projector allows.

Thanks.
 

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Here is an annotated picture of my homebuilt mount. It has worked very well.
 

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you can check out my home made mount and screen at my webpage
 

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Built this mount for my HS-10 and it works great. The wing nuts are a great idea since mine needed some adjusting to properly line up with the screen.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=232749


My cost was about $25, mainly because I had to buy a sheet of plexiglass that was 24" X 36" (cost for the plexiglass sheet was around $11).


For my HS-10 mount, I only used 8" X 8" plexiglass. I think I've got enough plexiglass left over for at least 4 more mounts for the HS-10.


If you read the whole thread, you will also find a parts list. You'll need 5M screws that are at least 60mm long so that you can do pitch and roll adjustments. After putting it all together, I'm not so sure the springs are really needed.
 

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I basically did the same thing as most people here. I used a pipe, a piece of wood, some screws with wing nuts (no springs though). I took about 45 minutes to build and was under $10 in parts. I had a piece of scrap wood and some black spray paint from another project.


Here is a link the a thread that shows the pictures of my mount along with some other people's mounts.

http://www.stevenhightower.net/cgi-b...num=1048780562
 

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A pipe and floor fange help in that you can make easy horizontal adjustment. I used painted plywood rather than plexiglass and it looks fine.


Also I cut the tops off of my M5 bolts and glued (lock-tite) nuts on the bottom of the bolt at the max depth I wanted the bolt to go into the HS10 (I heard 7-8mm MAX to avoid damage). This allowed me to tighten the bolts into the HS10 without possible damage and also allows me to assemble the springs before mounting the pj as well as being able to take the pj down by only removing the 3 wing nuts above the plywood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow, thanks everyone, those are some good ideas.

I feel more confident now, time to hit the Home Depot.
 

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I built one similar to monkey man's and xander's. If I were to do it over, I'd use outdoor lighting plates (like mike's) instead of the "floor flange" that monkey man (and I) used. It would look a lot lighter.


I dont like the look of plexiglass so I used plywood instead. I use 3/4" but think 1/2" would look lighter and do fine. Painted black it looks pretty good.


Since I used 1 1/2" pipe, I was able to get the power cord and component cables down the pipe so the look is very clean. No apparent interference. For DVI, I will have to cut a second hole in the ceiling.
 

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philba - Mine is also the 1.5" pipe and I got all the cables through it. Power, PJ Multi, and DVI. The DVI was a very tight fit, but i managed to get it through.
 
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