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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after lots of reading and thinking about how to do my motorized masking I have cobbled together pieces from several of the threads available on AVS and begun my build.


Much thanks to the following posts for inspiration.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/941076/4-way-acoustically-transparent-masking
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1251657/ciw-electronic-masking-diy-and-very-easy
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1150424/my-implementation-of-scottj0007s-cih-masking


Especially Moggies
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1295320/diy-curved-at-screen-with-somfy-based-automated-masking


Thanks, guys.



Ok so I've started by ordering parts from http://www.avoutlet.com/ .


2- AVO 12VD100W - 12VDC 1A White Wall Plug Power Supply w/

Terminated Power Supply: Terminated to 12'

2- Rollease RTEA4T12-6 Roller Shade Tubes w/ Tape - 1.5" x 6 Foot

2- Rollease SLAMLT30 Skyline to Somfy LT30 Bracket Adapter

4- Rollease SLB660 Skyline Shade Brackets

2- Rollease SLPEHD53 Skyline Heavy Duty End Plug for 1.5" Tubes

2- Somfy 1000679 LT30 IR 12VDC Roller Shade Motor with

Options: Crown and Drive Options: 9013488 Rollease 1.5" Tube (+$7.32) , IR Sensor Color: Black (+$11.00)

and 1-Somfy 1870132 LT30 - IR8 - Eight Channel IR Remote Control



Total cost: about $370


Also purchased t track, Aluminum flat stock for the masking ends..sy fabrics triple plush velvet and misc screws etc..


I did lots of research for using 1 larger somfy sonesse motor but in the end the complication of getting control over their proprietary RF control was too complicated and expensive for me to do right now. these smaller LT30's will do the job with a bit more noise but a lot more ease in terms of simple IR control. I just found out they are discontinuing these motors but with a 5 year warranty and light use ( compared to daily opening of shades which is what they are designed for... Im sure they should be good for a while.)


Here is my screenwall. Before pic




Here are the motor, tube and brackets, IR sensor, and remote for the right side



Here is the motor end with the locations for plugging in the iR sensor and the power supply


Here removing the stock plug end from the motor to replace it with the adapter for the skyline brackets I'll be using.


old vs new plug end for motor bracket adapter


Now ready for mounting to skyline bracket


skyline bracket installed on bottom with screws.


cut tubes to length on chopsaw


install skyline heavy duty plug end on side opposite motor.


plug in IR sensor and power supply after sliding motor/tube assembly onto brackets.







And thats it. Drop some batteries into the remote and done!! Works like a charm. Do the same for both sides and ready for the next step.


Here I have purchased VHMW plastic and used a hand plane and table saw to get it to fit in my track. Moggie used Delrin. but i'm gonna try this stuff instead. its was 3 dollars for the amount I needed so if it doesnt work no big deal. So Far it slides great but next come drilling and tapping it so we'll see how it goes.




this is as far as I have it now



Will update as I move along
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got a little more done.


I affixed the t track to screen wall frame with some blocks made fron 3/4 ply.




Then I attached the 2" wide aluminum bar (this will serve as the leading edge of the masking.) to the VHMW slides.




Make sure to make elongated holes in the aluminum bar ( as originally suggested by Moggie) to prevent binding as it slides along the track. Also make sure your upper and lower tracks are square and parallel to one another also to prevent binding.


I decided to do some testing so jerry- rigged some cord from the roller tube to the aluminum bar/ leading edge of masking. Then I ran some 1/8 inch bungee to provide tension for the masking to close. ( same as Moggie)




This was after trying 1/4 inch bungee and determining it was too much tension for the motors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Heres a quick video that shows my test.. Not perfect yet but close enough to continue onto the next step
 
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