[djtom]

Does the ecp 4100 service manual include the schematic for the ir remote?


I have a spare ecp, and want to convert the wired remote into an ir version. It looks like there are simply some parts missing from the wired one - ir led, driver transistor, etc, as there are holes and circuit traces in the board that are unused.


If anyne has a service manual, would they be kind enough to have a look, and maybe scan the relevant schematic?


If this is not in the manual, does anyone fancy opening up an ir remote and taking a picture of what is inside? They are dead easy to open - just remove the three screws from the rear, and take the back off. Keep it face down, otherwise the keys fall out........


I'm sure there are lots of ecp owners out there who would like to convert their wired remote into an ir version, so any help would be gratefully received.


It can be done with a sony remote, so I don't see why it can't be done with an ecp.


thanx


tom

 

[jeep lover 2]

Somebody?


Anybody?


I'm an interested party and I'd love to see this question answered...


So, esentialy this is a BUMP!!!



Sean

 

[Jay Wilson]

I'll hear that bump and raise it another bump!


I have the manual and there are no schematics of the remote inside. So, it comes down to someone opening it and taking a picture.


PUHLEASE!

 

[jcmccorm]

Jay, are you running without a remote? Good god man! How do you converge it?


If nobody jumps in before I get home from work, I'll take a picture of mine and throw it up here. I have definitely read somewhere on this forum of someone adding the required parts to the built-in remote to make it a *real* remote, so I think it's possible.


Cary

 

[Jay Wilson]

Yeah Cary, I stand behind it and converge it using the built in...which by the way is dangling by its cord making it hang low enought that I can do it.


On another note, what did you find about those vertical pots we discussed Friday? Email if you want to discuss further.

 

[jcmccorm]

Here's some pictures of my remote. There are two resistors at the "business end" of the remote. The horizontal one reads 4.0ohms in the board and the vertical one reads 1000 ohms in the board. The transistor is marked BC338-25 (could be 938 but looks like 338).


The last picture is the back end of the remote. There is no other active circuitry on the board.


Cary

http://fly.hiwaay.net/~jcmccorm/ECP_RMT1.JPG
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~jcmccorm/ECP_RMT2.JPG
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~jcmccorm/ECP_RMT3.JPG
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~jcmccorm/ECP_RMT4.JPG

 

[Jay Wilson]

WOW, thanks Cary! Now all I need to do is open the wired one to see what's in there


Can you believe it? That's the only virgin territory in my pj...the only thing I haven't opened to see what makes it tick!

 

[jcmccorm]

Ok, I thought about a reply to that one but it's better left untouched


Let us know how it works out. ECP remotes are always the "missing piece" when it comes to finding these things at auctions and such.


Cary

 

[Jay Wilson]

All I'll say is "Not anymore! "


I did a quick search...nothing comes back as a BC938-25. therefore I think you're right, as a BC338-25 comes back as a 300ma small signal bipolar transistor. Description fits. Cross to ECG123AP or NTE123AP. Couldn't find a cross on the RS website which surprised me. I'd bet they have it.


The best news? My computer shows I've got 6 of the ECG version in stock. Now, if I can get a remote sensor that will work, I may be in business.

 

[Jay Wilson]

Actually Cary, What I'd really like to do is find a 9 pin rs232 input board so I could control it from my HTPC...those seem harder to find than the IR remotes!

 

[Jay Wilson]

Also subs to SK3854

 

[djtom]

It's all there!! Only the 2 IR led's are not present in the wired remote I've got here, and everything else is where it should be.


Now, does anyone have an idea of what specs these ir leds are. I have plenty of old remotes around I don't mind hacking to bits for the led's, but do you need two identical ones? Come to think of it, why are there two? Every remote I've seen only needs one.


Also, what battery does the remote need, and what is the polarity? (i.e.

+volts to where, and 0volts to where? I have a large electrolytic cap running across the middle of the board - looks to be across where the battery terminals should be. Does this need to stay? It's a 10v 1000uF cap.


Many thanks to Cary for taking the time to post the photos - you da man!


tom

 

[jcmccorm]

Tom, mine has the whopper cap across the board too. There's a 9V battery in the remote's compartment and it's leads go to holes in the PCB near where each lead of that big cap goes. + to + and - to - and all that. Go to the shack and grab the IR emitters they have (that's what I'd do anyway). I assume they used two just to increase the output.


Cary

 

[djtom]

OK, thanks Cory. That sounds good to me. I'll let you know how it works out tomorrow, hopefully! Can't believe it's this easy - there's gotta be a catch somewhere!


thanks again,

tom

 

[jeep lover 2]

LOL!


Jay that's exactly the way I converge mine!


Hanging remote and all!


I have a viewpoint that cant seem to out-put the right IR for my projector. I know it will take the IR, however, because sometimes my DTC 100 remote will fool it into putting up the crosshatch test patern.

 

[jeep lover 2]

Here are pics of the wired remote from my switcher...

 

[jeep lover 2]

And the other 1/2...


Sean


I'm comparing the two boards and it looks as though the wired remote just needs 2 emitters and the resistor. I'm awful at getting the value of resistors off of the color bars (color blind), can someone tell me what the value need to be? If I can get the value I'll make a trip to Rat Shack in the morning and have the soldering done by mid afternoon...



Sean

 

[jeep lover 2]

So, I also need a 9V battery connector and solder it to the big cap with the right polarity, correct?



Sean

 

[jcmccorm]

Yup, and the resistor you're missing measured 4 ohms (in the board) on my remote. I'm color blind too and can't read the bands too well. 4ohms sounds kind of useless. I should have reversed the leads on the voltmeter in case the resistos was in parallel with that diode and I was forward biasing it.


Cary

 

[jeep lover 2]

Let me know, I'm going to check theboard before leaving inthe morning to go out and get the parts...


Sean