[JasonColeman]

A good friend of mine and I are looking to build what we hope to be mighty subwoofers for each of our HT rooms. We both have a very good spot at the rear left for a decent-sized sub 2' x 2' x 4' (WxDxH) and we're considering something like the Fathom 212 or Gotham design with an over-under driver layout. I have 2 EP2500's and an SMS-1 so far for my end of the build and we're leaning towards 2 12W7s for each sub, but I'm looking for guidance and suggestions from the veteran builders. Would a single EP2500 be enough to power one dual-driver box? How should they be wired?


Thanks in advance...and as always, sorry for being such a DIY noob. Shameful, I know.


Jason

 

[mjaudio]

I am not sure what the JL subs will cost you but there are plenty of drivers out there that would work great with your EP2500's.


Here is a small list of some places with drivers you might check out:

http://www.mach5audio.com/

http://www.ascendantaudio.com/

http://soundsolutionsaudio.com

http://www.creativesound.ca/

http://www.soundsplinter.com/

http://www.diycable.com/main/default...Path=24_93_150

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/

http://www.aespeakers.com/

http://www.treoonline.com/

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...dex.shopscript

http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php

http://www.funkywaves.net/


There are more I would suspect but that is what I got in my DIY sub bookmark folder.


I have dealt personally with Mach5 Audio, Creative Sound and Funkywaves. All are great to deal with and Nathan Funk from Funkywaves really helped me out on my design.


I personally bought a few of the TC Sounds drivers before they went out of business and they can be had on ebay.


There are much more knowledgeable people on this site (NEO Dan, you around) who can really help out as well.


Look through this site and you will pick up some really valuable ideas. My last commercial sub was the JL Audio Fathom F113 and for shear output my TC Sounds TC-3000 15" outdid the JL. The JL was still more detailed but not dramatically. I have been hooked on DIY since and I can't imagine buying another commercial sub again unless I get to lazy to Do It Myself

Good luck.


Mike

 

[mjaudio]



Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonColeman /forum/post/15459571


I have 2 EP2500's and an SMS-1 so far for my end of the build and we're leaning towards 2 12W7s for each sub, but I'm looking for guidance and suggestions from the veteran builders. Would a single EP2500 be enough to power one dual-driver box? How should they be wired?

On the wiring question if you do use 2 12W7's wire them for a 4 ohm load and run your EP2500 bridged. I have heard the EP2500 doesn't like anything under 4 ohms when bridged (like most amps)


There is a very good calculator on this site for figuring out Resistance in both parallel and series:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp


Here is an excellent calculator for figuring your enclosure volume as well:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...me-calculator/


I use a SMS-1 as well so you are about good to go.

 

[Warpdrv]

I would really love to build a DIY W7 2-12.....



I think that would be a phenomenal sub, for medium or smaller room it has some serious potential and would be fantastic musically speaking...... curious what the potential input power could be, those drivers can really handle a load, and with the proper size cabinet instead of the F112 like I have.... Heck, I could sell that thing to pay for a Dual Driver model.... Votes...?


I'd be interested in doing a custom cabinet done curved like what ssabripo had going here.... that would be sexy....

Scott we need to chat.... I'd love to pick your brain on the CNC work for this and implementation... I have a good buddy with a CNC who is happy to assist...

 

[mayhem13]

Here's some models of 2 JLw713s in 4.5 cuft with 1200w each driver....pretty not bad. A little eQ and all should be well.

Attachment 128649

Attachment 128650

Attachment 128651

 

[JasonColeman]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio /forum/post/15470297


On the wiring question if you do use 2 12W7's wire them for a 4 ohm load and run your EP2500 bridged. I have heard the EP2500 doesn't like anything under 4 ohms when bridged (like most amps)


There is a very good calculator on this site for figuring out Resistance in both parallel and series:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp


Here is an excellent calculator for figuring your enclosure volume as well:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...me-calculator/


I use a SMS-1 as well so you are about good to go.

Mike-


Thanks very much for the driver recs and the links and the wiring help. I'm not sold on the JL's, but I am looking more for detail and clarity over thundering bass and I don't mind spending a bit more for the build quality and specs of the JL. Good to hear that the EP2500s and the SMS-1 are a decent starting point. Now I just need to find drivers and come up with an enclosure design.


Jason

 

[JasonColeman]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv /forum/post/15470421

Yeah, something like this would be sweet...but I don't have ready access to a CNC

Jason

 

[jpmst3]

You don't need CNC, just use a jigsaw/router. You can plung cut them or jigsaw them and them route/roundover the edges.

 

[Warpdrv]

Question..... If you wire the dual 12w7's in series you get a 6ohm load, in parallel you get a 1.5 ohm load correct...?


So would something a bit larger then a EP2500 be better apt to power the twin drivers for this task in series if your drawing 6ohms.

 

[mjaudio]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv /forum/post/15481402


Question..... If you wire the dual 12w7's in series you get a 6ohm load, in parallel you get a 1.5 ohm load correct...?


So would something a bit larger then a EP2500 be better apt to power the twin drivers for this task in series if your drawing 6ohms.

The EP2500 would love a 6 ohm load when used Mono. The 12w7's seam to like about 750 watts per driver according to JL. I am not sure what the EP2500 would shove into 6ohms mono but since it supposedly puts out 2400 watts into 8 and half that into 4 then 6 should be 1500 watts, just what JL wants.


I don't own a EP2500 but a friend of mine does and he really likes it. I personally have about 3 QSC PLX amps but may pick up or borrow my friends EP2500 to compare.


I just looked up the 12w7 and it's res is 2.47 so 5 ohms will draw a little extra juice which is always nice.

 

[JasonColeman]



Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /forum/post/15475245


You don't need CNC, just use a jigsaw/router. You can plung cut them or jigsaw them and them route/roundover the edges.

I can tell that the bracing was cut using most likely a jigsaw and not a CNC. I was referring to the cabinet and wondered if Warp was suggesting using a CNC to the curved cabinet.


Jason

 

[Warpdrv]



Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonColeman /forum/post/15485179


I can tell that the bracing was cut using most likely a jigsaw and not a CNC. I was referring to the cabinet and wondered if Warp was suggesting using a CNC to the curved cabinet.


Jason

heres where I got the info... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post11143988


I was just thinking about making all the bracing on a CNC so it was just really nice and uniform with clean curves, so when I'm on crack the shaking doesn't show up in the Build Quality

 

[jpmst3]



Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonColeman /forum/post/15485179


I can tell that the bracing was cut using most likely a jigsaw and not a CNC. I was referring to the cabinet and wondered if Warp was suggesting using a CNC to the curved cabinet.


Jason

Ahh, I see, I am with you now.


That is a great link to some likely methodologies.

 

[JasonColeman]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv /forum/post/15485342


heres where I got the info... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post11143988


I was just thinking about making all the bracing on a CNC so it was just really nice and uniform with clean curves, so when I'm on crack the shaking doesn't show up in the Build Quality

If the braces are all the same size, it'd be easy enough to do with a decent plunge router and a carefully made jig with a guide bushing. Definitely better than using a jig saw.


Jason

 

[JasonColeman]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv /forum/post/15485342


heres where I got the info... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post11143988

Bending 1/4" would be easy enough, but I'd be concerned about 2 things:


A tight solid connection between all of the layers, especially at the edges.


Ending up with clean front and back edges for the baffle and rear to seamlessly attach to.


The former would be do-able with enough strapping and blocking and with a few extra hands, but the latter would be the real trick, especially when you're using something like luan or plywood that doesn't always leave the cleanest edge. Finding a way to cut all of the layers cleanly and evenly would be a challenge, even with a good jig/fixture and a mighty saw.


I dunno, but me likey and me want!


We'll figure out how to skin this cat...


Jason

 

[jpmst3]

Ya, it definitely makes for a much nicer enclosure. You have me thinking as well.

 

[tractng]

How much a diy like the jl and the amp mention? I love to do one for a project.


I did the whole fiberglass thing for the car once using a diamond sub. I am newbie in terms of home audio stuff

Tony