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What do you think the savings are vs a purchased frame/completed screen?   I like the flexibility on the dimensions, but wondered if the 'cost' was a 10% savings, 20% savings, etc?

 

Thanks,

Kevin
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24810474


What do you think the savings are vs a purchased frame/completed screen?   I like the flexibility on the dimensions, but wondered if the 'cost' was a 10% savings, 20% savings, etc?


Thanks,



Kevin

Provided you own tools and possess skills, you can save as much as 50% by building the screen yourself. I saved about 25%, but I had to purchase a saw, plus I had a friend help out as well.


But I've also put together one of the Seymour fixed screens, and if you have the budget and don't want to take the time to build it yourself, they are really simple to put together and they work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If you look at their web site Seymour AV store a 137" Diag 16x9 is $1167 there 2.35:1 at 140" Diag is $1156 I paid a little over $550 for the screen cut on a 15 degree angle with grommets. You can get the materiel for a little over $350 and stretch and staple the screen but I did not want to go that route. I probably only have $50-$75 in wood and hardware but you would have to build the minimalist wall anyway and the hanger brackets so for the frame itself less than $30. If you wanted the headache of stretching and stapling the material you would save $75% if you go the route. I did I saved right at 50%. They have some pdf instructions on the site how to stretch the materiel. I just wanted a tight professional look you get with the grommets and bands. Seymour AV, DIY screens The $500- $600 you save is another DIY Sub
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24814308


If you look at their web site Seymour AV store a 137" Diag 16x9 is $1167 there 2.35:1 at 140" Diag is $1156 I paid a little over $550 for the screen cut on a 15 degree angle with grommets. You can get the materiel for a little over $350 and stretch and staple the screen but I did not want to go that route. I probably only have $50-$75 in wood and hardware but you would have to build the minimalist wall anyway and the hanger brackets so for the frame itself less than $30. If you wanted the headache of stretching and stapling the material you would save $75% if you go the route. I did I saved right at 50%. They have some pdf instructions on the site how to stretch the materiel. I just wanted a tight professional look you get with the grommets and bands. Seymour AV, DIY screens The $500- $600 you save is another DIY Sub
Thanks for the input.  I definitely would want to do the grommets as well, that seems to remove a bit of the room for error (or, allows you to reposition screws easily if there is an issue!).  

 

I was all set for a pair of HSU VTF-15s, but have just started looking at some of the DIY Subs... I frankly know very little about any of it, so, lots of researching those threads if that is the way to go.  The little I have looked into that, I believe I would buy the DIYSoundgroup pre cut panels/boxes, again, similar to the grommets - reducing the chance of error (and frankly, time involved!).  I am planning in wall speakers, and hadn't found any DIY in-wall with enclosure speakers yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #25

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24814335


Thanks for the input.  I definitely would want to do the grommets as well, that seems to remove a bit of the room for error (or, allows you to reposition screws easily if there is an issue!).  


I was all set for a pair of HSU VTF-15s, but have just started looking at some of the DIY Subs... I frankly know very little about any of it, so, lots of researching those threads if that is the way to go.  The little I have looked into that, I believe I would buy the DIYSoundgroup pre cut panels/boxes, again, similar to the grommets - reducing the chance of error (and frankly, time involved!).  I am planning in wall speakers, and hadn't found any DIY in-wall with enclosure speakers yet.
I had a dead 12" JBL Sub and was looking at replacing or fixing it which led me to parts express. I talked with their techs that are great and decided to build one of their kits from Dayton and repair my JBL. Here is a link to My Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4, 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit build I also bought a matching 500 Watt Dayton Plate amp and fixed my JBL so now I have 2 sweet subwoofers. You can read the details over there but you cannot go wrong. I know a lot of folks who build the Subs do a passive model with a Crown or Behringer amp in their rack but to me a plate amp is easier. Also I put two 20 amp circuits in the front for the plate amps and ran the RCA cable so I was sort of locked into that route. 2 of these 12" kits or even their 15" kits would sound really nice. My buddy has an HSU VTF-15 and don't get me wrong it is sweet but My 12" Dayton is close for less than half the price the 15" kit would be half of the HSU so you could get 2 for the price of one and they will hold their own. Two subs at 1/4 wall length in from each side will eliminate a lot off the nulls across the seating for better all around base. You can also get the Same Kits Erich sells at DYI Sound group with a 15” driver then and a Behringer amp for about the same cost. The Dayton Plate Amps has equlization but the Behringer does not so that is an additional cost as well


my 12" kit Dayton Audio 12" Titanic Mk4 500 watt subwoofer kit

15" kit Dayton-audio 15" titanic-mk4 1000 watt subwoofer kit


or this

15" woofer with flat pack Dayton Aaudio 15" ultimax subwoofer and cabinet package

and this

Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier 2 x 1400W Behringer ep4000 power amplifier 2x1400w
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade  /t/1495884/diy-frame-using-semour-center-stage-xd#post_24814509



I had a dead 12" JBL Sub and was looking at replacing or fixing it which led me to parts express. I talked with their techs that are great and decided to build one of their kits from Dayton and repair my JBL. Here is a link to My Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4, 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit build I also bought a matching 500 Watt Dayton Plate amp and fixed my JBL so now I have 2 sweet subwoofers. You can read the details over there but you cannot go wrong. I know a lot of folks who build the Subs do a passive model with a Crown or Behringer amp in their rack but to me a plate amp is easier. Also I put two 20 amp circuits in the front for the plate amps and ran the RCA cable so I was sort of locked into that route. 2 of these 12" kits or even their 15" kits would sound really nice. My buddy has an HSU VTF-15 and don't get me wrong it is sweet but My 12" Dayton is close for less than half the price the 15" kit would be half of the HSU so you could get 2 for the price of one and they will hold their own. Two subs at 1/4 wall length in from each side will eliminate a lot off the nulls across the seating for better all around base. You can also get the Same Kits Erich sells at DYI Sound group with a 15” driver then and a Behringer amp for about the same cost. The Dayton Plate Amps has equlization but the Behringer does not so that is an additional cost as well


my 12" kit Dayton Audio 12" Titanic Mk4 500 watt subwoofer kit

15" kit Dayton-audio 15" titanic-mk4 1000 watt subwoofer kit


or this

15" woofer with flat pack Dayton Aaudio 15" ultimax subwoofer and cabinet package

and this

Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier 2 x 1400W Behringer ep4000 power amplifier 2x1400w
It turns out Parts Express is about a 15 - 20 minute drive from where I live, I may have to go up and meet with them for some education & help.   I must say, looking at the site is a bit over-whelming.  The two kits you refer too, definitely seem simple - but then there are just so many options out there!  I appreciate being pointed in the right direction, and now that I know this place is so close, it will make it worth the trip to learn a bit about this stuff first hand!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
not saying it is the right direction just the one I took LOL there is a video and all you need is some power tools and 3M spray glue for the liner. Took me a little over an hour total I think. With the other kit you will need some clamps and glue to put the box together not sure if the spiked feet, screws and wht not come with the kit. I think it is just the woofer and the flat pack so you need some wood working skills. Not that I don't have the skills but for $629 for a 12" Sub that goes down to 25 Hz ain't to bad. The 15" is only $150 more and has an extra 500 Watts so why not. The tech said for my room if I was not fixing my JBL than get the 15" but he said two 12" subs are better than one 15" So I just got the 12" and the same amp to fix the JBL.
 

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What do you think the savings are vs a purchased frame/completed screen?   I like the flexibility on the dimensions, but wondered if the 'cost' was a 10% savings, 20% savings, etc?
 
Thanks,

Kevin
We are building the 180" scope screen... To purchase it complete it is $2499... I will have around $1200 in ours including a extruded aluminum screen.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
We are building the 180" scope screen... To purchase it complete it is $2499... I will have around $1200 in ours including a extruded aluminum screen.
I do not have the skills to do alumunum so I just stuck with the wood frame. 180" is a big screen is that Diag? Woould be nice if you did a build thread.
 

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i agree with you.Before anyone asks this is before I did some fine toning of the projector leveling and what not I have to say the image is bright and after running Audyssey on my Denon AVR X4000 you do not even know the screen is there or the speakers are behind it.thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
i agree with you.Before anyone asks this is before I did some fine toning of the projector leveling and what not I have to say the image is bright and after running Audyssey on my Denon AVR X4000 you do not even know the screen is there or the speakers are behind it.thank you
Did you have a picture because I can not see? just the little X in a box like there is suposed to be a picture there. It would be cool if anyone who made a DIy Seymour frame posted pictures here and a link to their build thread. I have the X4000 as well. Do you have issues with the red blinking light (protection)?
 

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Did you have a picture because I can not see? just the little X in a box like there is suposed to be a picture there. It would be cool if anyone who made a DIy Seymour frame posted pictures here and a link to their build thread.
I did not do any breakdown of the build of the frame itself, but here's my build thread. I followed the DIY instructions on the www.seymourav.com website, did not add the chamfer to the inside edge. Building the frame and mounting the screen material only took about 2 hours total. It went very quickly and easily, and I am new enough at this that I had to purchase saws to build it!

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/1515949-ames-ia-media-room-remodel-cinema-1858-a.html
 

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A lot of folks were asking what I was going to do around the screen so here is the frame wall build.

Are these just "Friction Fitted" around the screen?

And, I assume Friction Fitted, basically means measured relatively precisely so that you have to 'squeeze' them into place/ force them into place? How does that work for the 'bottom' of screen... I assume you aren't pushing 'up' on the screen (or screen would come undone from zclips)... is this piece friction fitted to the two side/vertical panels?

Also... do you think the Syfabric was needed 'under' the screen edge to avoid reflection vs the black painting you did?
 

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Are these just "Friction Fitted" around the screen?

And, I assume Friction Fitted, basically means measured relatively precisely so that you have to 'squeeze' them into place/ force them into place? How does that work for the 'bottom' of screen... I assume you aren't pushing 'up' on the screen (or screen would come undone from zclips)... is this piece friction fitted to the two side/vertical panels?

Also... do you think the Syfabric was needed 'under' the screen edge to avoid reflection vs the black painting you did?
The panel above the screen has speaker grill ball/socket connectors to keep it from coming loose. The ones on the sides and below the screen are friction fit - the squish of the carpet makes them grip nicely. I didn't use z-clips to mount my screen, it is attached at the top with piano hinges, and has little struts on the bottom on both sides so I can prop it open like a car hood when I need to get behind the screen for maintenance. None of the panels have ever come loose.

The velvet is definitely needed, any reflection would bug me, plus sometimes I am lazy and like to overshoot a 16:9 image beyond the upper/lower screen boundaries (screen is 2:1 aspect ratio) - for example Game of Thrones.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Are these just "Friction Fitted" around the screen?

And, I assume Friction Fitted, basically means measured relatively precisely so that you have to 'squeeze' them into place/ force them into place? How does that work for the 'bottom' of screen... I assume you aren't pushing 'up' on the screen (or screen would come undone from zclips)... is this piece friction fitted to the two side/vertical panels?

Also... do you think the Syfabric was needed 'under' the screen edge to avoid reflection vs the black painting you did?
Yes they are friction fit top and bottom but I did put a 2" 18 gage brad nail in the corners. On the sides I wraped a 2x4 and used 2" brad nails in the corners. I think the black paint on the screen frame would work many screens are made that way with no problem. But folks recomended using the velvet and I had enough of it so I wraped it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I had these over at the offical thread and thought I would re post here

agreed Since no QA was done on outside of roll I just went with the inside with no regrets
from rear of theater 19' from screen

from primary seating position about 9'

from primary seating position about 9' 4x zoom

12 inches from screen

12 inches from screen 4x zoom
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I wanted to try something different for the super bowl so I tested last week on Avatar which is 16x9. Essentialy I just blew up the 16x9 image to fit the 2.40:1 image width. Since it is 2.0:1 screen what I had was a image 126" wide x 65" tall. there was about 4" of over scan into the velvet at the bottom of the screen. It was huge. a total of 142" of image on the screen. The game looked great that size.

This image was from my Samsung Galaxy S5 trust me the image and screen are square the trapeziod in the picture is due to how I was holding my phone.
Form front seat no zoom


that is 142" Dia in your face

Second row with sconce off

with sconce on low the Insteon dimmers are great with these LEDs I can dim to les than 10% before they turn off
 
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