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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've heard the High Power's retro-reflective properties work about the same as a glass-beaded screen except the beads are much smaller. So, I'm wondering how glass micro bubbles would work. They are roughly the diameter of a human hair and they are used to make lightweight filler when working with composites. It would be interesting to try them in a screen coating. You could mix them with clear lacquer or maybe spray on a coat of lacquer over a white base and then dust the bubbles on. Follow with coats of flat lacquer to prevent hot-spotting. The bubbles look and feel about like talcum powder. Cost is about $7 for a pound bag which is about a gallon.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...es/bubbles.php

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...99/bubbles.jpg
 

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I use them regularly building composite stuff. This is an interesting concept but microbubbles don't


1. appear to be to be good reflectors of light, consistency and look is more like baby powder


2. finding the proper paint to not "coat" the to particle is the trick.


I'll try some experiments but I highly doubt it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Tryg,


I think the reflective properties may be deceptive because the particles are so small. I look forward to seeing what the mad scientists at Tryg Labs can come up with. :D


ps - I think 3M makes the bubbles and they also make that scotch bright retroreflective material. Coincidence?
 

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I may be way (way way) off base here, but would it be possible to mix this with a clear glaze and use an HVLP sprayer to spray them on a surface? You could probably achieve a more uniform coatting this way. Even if this is possible, it would likely still require a flat top coat to keep from hotspotting.
 

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If all this works, then maybe you could try mixing in just a hint of tint for a gray High Power knockoff. I've talked to Da-Lite a couple of times and still no word on the actual gray High Power front.


--Darin
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by unefined
I may be way (way way) off base here, but would it be possible to mix this with a clear glaze and use an HVLP sprayer to spray them on a surface? You could probably achieve a more uniform coatting this way.
what do you think Stewart does
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think, as Tryg said, you'd want the binder and the top coats to be clear so they didn't interfere with the bubbles. The base coat could be white, gray, silver or whatever. The holy grail for me would be a high-power-like coating you could apply to a cheap perf screen. The bubbles are tiny compared to the perfs so it (maybe?) could work.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by marcorsyscom
CJ (cmjohnson) did this in the CRT forum with harborfreight glass sandblast beads. I think he said the tip was to pile them high (~1mm+?) on wet paint, let them dry, then remove the excess, leaving a nice layer adhered to the paint.
This gave me a funny mental image. I see someone covering a 5 x 9 sheet with Elmer's glue and sprinkling it with silver glitter just like arts and crafts day in the 1st grade.


I call it the superglitterplexdeluxedog version 2.
 

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Did you ever try this Tryg?
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Tryg
I use them regularly building composite stuff. This is an interesting concept but microbubbles don't


1. appear to be to be good reflectors of light, consistency and look is more like baby powder


2. finding the proper paint to not "coat" the to particle is the trick.


I'll try some experiments but I highly doubt it
Try the ..sovitec link... on my page they have the proper beads and U.S. distib.

Or just try opticoat thats easier prob ;)
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by catapult
I think, as Tryg said, you'd want the binder and the top coats to be clear so they didn't interfere with the bubbles. The base coat could be white, gray, silver or whatever. The holy grail for me would be a high-power-like coating you could apply to a cheap perf screen. The bubbles are tiny compared to the perfs so it (maybe?) could work.
catapult


Seems that there is little interest in what is a great concept :confused:

Its sad that the good ideas get washed aside so fast ...so this should get your post up top where it belongs But the size of the bubbles is not the problem when wanting perfs its the carrying emulsion that wont allow for the perfs I have tried and unless perfs are put in after its Opticoated i just cant see it working with perfs.
 

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If you use a fabric base and do not coat too heavily, you can retain the perf effect. I have recently turned my MMC acoustically (semi)transparent screen into a Ddog v1.0 (variant) coated MMC screen. I didn't noticeably lose and audio response from the coating, and the image is greatly improved.


If you guys figure out a way to make a DIY high-power coating, I'm all for trying it :)


RG
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rick,


Very interesting!


D_Hod,


Are you saying you tried Opticoat on a perf screen and it plugged the holes?
 

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I should note that I achieved this by using a spray gun (HVLP in this case). I doubt very seriously that this could be achieved by rolling.


RG
 

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D_Hod,


Are you saying you tried Opticoat on a perf screen and it plugged the holes? [/b][/quote]


Acctually no ....as i think of it we applied our base coating first then Opticoat and have never tried it by just spraying Opticoat on an untreated perf sooo... mabey it would work.

As I dont have any perf matte whites around to test on and see if it clogs

someone else will have to try it out and report.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Guynn


If you guys figure out a way to make a DIY high-power coating, I'm all for trying it :)


RG
Its been figured out ...and you can try it

for more info look here Opticoat
 
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