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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,


I'm moving in with the girlfriend. Any general advice would be great, but what I'm really looking for is some help with a screen for my Panny AE700.


My old living room was set up with a 100" screen using Goo Systems' stuff. I wasn't blown away, but it worked reasonably well (couple of hot spots). I thought it looked pretty cool. After lurking in a few of these DIY threads, I thought it might be fun to try an SM/MM application.


Some data:
  • The room has very little ambient light with the blackout blinds drawn.
  • My new screen will be about 85" diagonal.
  • The main driver of the system will be an MCE2005 (NV6600GT) box, mainly to watch DVDs.
  • I've never painted anything in my life.


What do y'all recommend?


Thanks in advance!
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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If that new Girlfriend can paint, marry her. :eek:


Set up your PJ and shoot the image size exactly where you want it on the wall.


Make a bold pencil line about 2" outside the Image area around the perimeter of the image.


Check the wall with the image off, and look to see any depressions, bumps, ridges, texture of any kind. If no drastic imporements are necessary, just get a 3" x 7" Sanding Sponge (Fine/Medium Grit @Home Depot) and 'sweep sand' usung light strokes until the area to be painted is "Baby Butt" smooth. (..an AVS standard of measurement.)


You then coat the wall with a Gloss White latex. Use a 3/8" nap Roller...a good one. One coat might do it, but avoid trying to cover it too fast. Two thin coats will be Mo Bedder. Use a new roller each time. Let each coat dry completely before attempting the next, especially with the subsiquent Top Coats of MMud-SE.


Ist Top Coat, use a 3/8" Nap Roller again, and don't overload the roller. Use nice, light, overlapping strokes, but don't overwork the area.


2nd Top Coat switch to a 1/4" Nap roller and repeat, but be all the more cautious about getting too much paint on the roller.


That might get the job done, but if at that conjecture you see "Orange Peel' or any "Pin Holes" or "Craters" (...you didn't wait for the last coat to dry enough, you.... :mad: ) then a quick, light "Wet Sanding" with that Sanding Sponge just barely damp will fill 'em up. Use another 1/4' roller, apply the finish coat lightly and evenly, and post up your results.


Lastly, practice "Rolling" on a peice of Drywall. A sheet costs about $5 bucks to experiment on, but could save you hours of re-do and frustration.


The MMud-SE formula and other instructions reside on the "Light Fusion; A study..."thread now posted elsewhere on the Message Board.


Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey MMan,


Thank you very much for the advice. I'll be heading to Home Depot this weekend. I'm expecting the wall mount next week, so I'll post results once the whole mess is done. Everything seems to take forever!


For the Gloss White latex, is there a particular brand & shade that I need?


Thanks again!
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Might as well stick with Behr UPW Exterior



BTW, if you substitute Behr Silver Screen for MMud-SE, you'll save about $50.00.


Many Panny 700 owners have gone that route and been very satisfied. Two things to consider; if your satisfied, your done quickly and have plenty of Pop Corn & Beer money left.


Unsatisfied, and you can put up a MMud-SE (1 Oz. SM) coat (3 of 'em at least...) over the SS and both reclaim some brightness, yet take advantage of the cheaper "silver effect" the underlaying SS would provide. Just be sure if that occurs that you cover the SS just until you can no longer see the "grey" when starting at the surface.


Just like a true SM/MM screen or a LF Mirror application.


I can't lay much claim to an outstandly successful SS venture for those Kudos belong to Bcortez. But I can reccomend it as a viable alternative.
 

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How come you are recommending using gloss white as a base instead of SM. I am curious because I have the same projector shooting a 110" screen.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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A Gloss white will reflect, not absorb light that penetrates beneath the MMud-SE. If the surface is dark enough to enhance CR yet enough light is reclaimed by the "non-absorbtion" tendencies of the Gloss, then "Gain" won't be a drastically affected, whites should remain "White", and colors will be vibrant, not dull.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan
A Gloss white will reflect, not absorb light that penetrates beneath the MMud-SE. If the surface is dark enough to enhance CR yet enough light is reclaimed by the "non-absorbtion" tendencies of the Gloss, then "Gain" won't be a drastically affected, whites should remain "White", and colors will be vibrant, not dull.
I truly could not have said this better myself.
 

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Hi, I also have the Panny 700 and I have it ceiling mounted about 20 feet back. The projector is also about 1.5 feet off center (didn't want it in front of a window)... I am projecting on a 7 foot tall by 12.5 foot wall (don't have the exact measurements). I went to home depot and bought 1 qt of ss and 1 qt of hi gloss white upw (will this be enough to paint that wall????) Also the lady at the desk talked me into adding 2 oz or was it 48ths?? of black to tint the white she said it would cover better... (is that ok????) I plan on starting this project tomorrow so any help or further info would be highly respected. this is my first theater room so I want to do it the best way I can.

:confused:


Mike
 

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myrddin,


One quart of flat SS in UPW

One quart high gloss UPW


You might even need to prime the wall before rolling the high gloss.


Plus, I'd consider getting a small container of Floetrol and have HD shake 4 ounces into each quart. I guess you'd need a couple gallon containers. You'll get by without the Floetrol, but I would use it to help ensure there are no roller marks and to help smooth out the finish.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by myrddin
Hi, I also have the Panny 700 and I have it ceiling mounted about 20 feet back. The projector is also about 1.5 feet off center (didn't want it in front of a window)... I am projecting on a 7 foot tall by 12.5 foot wall (don't have the exact measurements). I went to home depot and bought 1 qt of ss and 1 qt of hi gloss white upw (will this be enough to paint that wall????)



Problematical. Seems pretty dicey to me. A lot will depend on your rolling skill. More is better, if only for 'contingency" sake. Adding the Flotrol as suggested will certainly help mitigate the "amount" issue, make the paint roll easier (less paint needed) and overall help with getting the paint on smoothly.



Also the lady at the desk talked me into adding 2 oz or was it 48ths?? of black to tint the white she said it would cover better... (is that ok????)

That was wrong of her to do so. That effectively decreases the very "Shine Through" reflectivity of the Gloss White. Your SS already has all the "dark" it needs, and the "White" in the Gloss is acting more like a reflective undercoat as well as a smooth primer. If it was "Her" talking you into adding LB, then take it back to exchange for a pure white paint. All those "pre Mixed' cans you see laying around in the paint Dept.? Returned paint or paint that was refused because it mixed into something less than desirable. Go get what you need not what see thinks you need. And ignore her this time. ;)


I plan on starting this project tomorrow so any help or further info would be highly respected. this is my first theater room so I want to do it the best way I can.

:confused:


Mike
I hope this all helps. BTW, as suggested above, you indeed might want to actually prime the wall first if you did any real degree of sanding to achieve a smooth surface to begin painting on.
 

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Thank you guys very mutch. I am leaving now to take this qt of hight gloss white back to HD and get one without the BL in it. I will also see if I can get the flotrol added to each qt (4oz) Thank you..... I may have some kilz that I can use to help prime but the wall is already painted evening hush (dark grey), do you still think I need to prime?



Ill be back soon

:)



EDIT:::::

Update, I have the upw High-Gloss Qt and my SS Qt now (WHite is white no BL additive). I couldn't get them to add the flotrol she said I could mix it my self.... Can I use a paint stick or do I need a mixer (drill attachment)? Any tips for when I roll it later tonight and also let me know about the primer.......





THnx
 

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You can stick stir the Floetrol; 2 or 3 minutes should be sufficient. I will be using a drill attachment myself since I already have one. I haven't used Floetrol before but will be buying it today to use later.


I read up a bit more on the Floetrol and found it is not recommended for high gloss since it may affect its sheen. And so now I suggest you either use only 1 ounce per quart or none of the Floetrol with the high gloss.


However, definitely go with the Floetrol in the SS flat. From what I've read about Floetrol, 2 to 8 ounces per quart are recommended. I arbitrarily recommended 4 ounces since that's just what I would consider starting out with. You may find a little more may work better, but you'll likely be fine with 4 ounces per quart.


You're going to want a flat, smooth surface to paint on. Sanding your current painted surface may be best. If you're satisfied with it as is, then I'd first make sure it's clean and skip the primer. A couple coats of high gloss should cover well.


IF you see the 1st coat of high gloss is looking rough, marked or streaky (and you likely won't), then I'd add a little Floetrol for the 2nd coat. Just remember to add very little of it though.


I'm hoping this turns out well for you as I plan on rolling a large test panel soon much in the same way you're about to.
 

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I do have one seam that is where the dry wall meets in the screen are that is a bit noticable (looks as if there was not enough mud so its recessed but hardly noticeable unless you get real close in a lot of light). The rest of the wall is nice and flat but I have been wet sanding a bat today and will continue tomorrow. I guess I need to know if I really should fix the seam now or can I just do it at another time? Since you say I shouldn't use the flotrol in the high gloss do you think I should use killz on it first to get a white background then a heavy coat of the high gloss? I als have a little semi gloss from another project... Or should I just use the up high gloss and it it doesn't cover well just get another QT?


I will be sanding a bit more but if all goes well I hope to have my first coat on the wall by tomorrow night.


I cant thank you enough for helping me with this.


Mike
 

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I'd get that seam filled and sanded smooth first and then prime with Kilz2. The primer need not cover well. The primer will help the high gloss adhere better. The high gloss will cover just fine with or without the primer.


I suggest not rolling heavy coats especially with your 2nd high gloss coat. I would use a semi-dry rolling technique instead of rolling with a fullly loaded roller, and try rolling nice even coats. The technique you use for rolling should be the same for each coat from start to finish. And you will do best by rolling up and down instead of left to right. Basically just load the roller as usual and empty some of it onto a spare board before rolling the wall. You will want to check after each coat dries to see that it is smooth with no nubs or runs.
 

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I ran mud down the seam ( I always put up to mutch so I am sure I will be sanding for a few days. ) After that I will follow up with what stage I am in. Thank you for all your help I hope this turns out well. I only wish my dry wall skills were a little better.

http://www.bulkimagehost.com/image.php?image=f4b7e3d0ef.jpg http://www.bulkimagehost.com/uploads/f4b7e3d0ef.jpg

http://www.bulkimagehost.com/image.php?image=0698ef0e0e.jpg http://www.bulkimagehost.com/uploads/0698ef0e0e.jpg

http://www.bulkimagehost.com/image.php?image=3158eb8eb2.jpg http://www.bulkimagehost.com/uploads/3158eb8eb2.jpg



So you can see my progress............ This is where I am tonight..

:eek:
 

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Your doing fine!


Take a real sponge, soak it, the wring it out, then wipe the mudded edges of those seams with several swipes. After the 3 or 4th passm you'll see the mud starting to spread. Lighten your pressure and then STOP once the area involve looks smoother.


DO NOT try to wet and smooth a bad area all at the same time or you might "roll Off" the mud. Professional finishers / painters the "sponge method" when the surface is not rough enough to require a sanding block and/or if dust is not allowed.
 

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the wall is almost done. I have a few questions though, I have 2 coats killz, 2 coats upw high gloss white and 1 nice even coat of ss. My question is do I need another coat of ss? Also do I need to sand the final coat of ss? My drywall work turned out ok but you can still see some flaws... I am waiting for it to dry now. I will follow up with pics tomorrow. thnx
 

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No need to sand the SS. I say watch a few movies and see how it looks before even considering another coat.
 

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Tomorrow has come. ;)


After you had primed, then put on your first coat of Bright White, many defects would not be able to be seen due to the white pigments being able to hide them. Shadows of depressions and bumps don't exhibit the 'contour' effect like a darker paint would.


The opposite being true with a Grey paint like Silver Screen, your gonna see every boo boo that you left behind. But........., unless they were extreme, once the PJ's light hits the surface, it will inundate the surface with enough light to cancel out 'contour' to virtual invisibility.


As previously and wisely suggested, leave it be for at least 3 days, both to watch some flicks and let all those layers dry completely. Afterwards, if your main empahsis is light spot sanding troublesome points with a dry Sanding Sponge, then a "sweep sanding" of the entire screen area should pre you for a final roll with a 1/4" Nap Roller.


That finial coating MUST be a light one, elsewise you'll lose the advantage of the Bright White Gloss, just as too much "Top Coat" paint with a LF will negate all advantages the Mirror affords.


Here's hoping your efforts are more that you could have hoped for!
 

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Thnx guys.... Im at work now but plan on checking it out after... Another question, I used almost all of the Qt of SS and the 4 Oz of flowtrol on the screen with my first coat (about 7 foot tall X 11ish feet wide) I was careful to load the roller and then make a few passes on a spare board, but not to where the roller was dry just enough to take out the extra paint. the coating was pretty even and I didn't see any craters or light spots last night while it was wet. SO I guess what Im asking is do you feel I already put two mutch up and have defeated the high gloss under coat? Also what I mean by flaws is this, you know how you have a seam (you can see the 2 lines above where I have the mud) well I sanded and then hit it with the wet sponge like you said and after I could not feel a single edge or line or anything but after painting you can just barely make it out to where you can see where the lines are. Any way I hope it works out I will test out the image tonight and report back. I did try it out as soon as I had painted but while it was wet I had a lot of little sparkily like effects ( I hope this is because it was wet)...


I cant thank you 2 enough for taking the time to give me advice, I look forward to getting my room done so I can enjoy everything. All I need now is carpet and trim.

:)


Ill follow up tonight with pick and quality report.
 
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