[Allsound]

Build your own solution:

I couldn't find much of anything on this topic or many options that seemed all that workable. Traditional atmos speakers didn't have the angle that I needed. I rent now, so ON-ceiling seemed to be my only option. I just happened to see 4 dirt cheap NIB in-ceiling R-1650-c Klipsch on an online classified so it got my wheels turning. I could just take the speakers off of the stock mounting plate. How about I just fabricate some speaker boxes? Doable... How about I buy some mdf prefab 6.5" boxes? Found the latter ones online at the right price point so I went that direction.

Pulled off the felt. In hindsight I could have left the ceiling-facing side with felt for any potential rattles. Anyways, I took it all off. Then I used paint thinner to remove the remaining felt and glue using a copper steel wool ball.

I decided to run the speaker wire through the attic, so I used a hole saw to cut an mdf plug for the side speaker terminal hole. Filled the small hole saw drill hole with putty.

I also wanted to use the stock speaker grill so I centered it on the box and outlined it. I used a sanding disc on the dremel to carve a channel for the grill. Friction fit turned out perfectly. I used my router to inset the speaker down a bit to accommodate the tweeter level.

Did a full paint prep sanding. Got the matching interior paint from the landlady.

Looks about as good as ON-ceiling can(smaller footprint than the stock setup) and sounds amazing having atmos in the right position.

Hope this may help someone else in a similar situation.

 

[johnson636]

Wait, no pictures🙀

 

[Allsound]

Wait, no pictures🙀

I'm working on my rear surround solution too. Not a DIY but a space related element. Another challenging piece that will add to this. Stay tuned. Pictures forthcoming. Ok, here's a process pic-

 

[Everyone]

How are you planning on mounting the boxes on the ceiling?

I started doing something similar. Originally building backer boxes for 8" Yamaha NS-IW560C speakers with the intent to put them IN the ceiling, but changed my mind and decided to try them ON the ceiling first. I used about a sheet and a half of 3/4" MDF to make 6 boxes. I've not attached the top of the box with the cutout for the speaker to the boxes yet. I was thinking I'd have to screw the boxes to the ceiling first, then attach the top and put the speaker in it.

 

[Allsound]

How are you planning on mounting the boxes on the ceiling?

I started doing something similar. Originally building backer boxes for 8" Yamaha NS-IW560C speakers with the intent to put them IN the ceiling, but changed my mind and decided to try them ON the ceiling first. I used about a sheet and a half of 3/4" MDF to make 6 boxes. I've not attached the top of the box with the cutout for the speaker to the boxes yet. I was thinking I'd have to screw the boxes to the ceiling first, then attach the top and put the speaker in it.

Since my boxes(1/2" mdf) were prefab-nailed(I didn't want screw heads showing) I just used the main, speaker opening to put 4 screws through the back of it into the ceiling. 3/4" mdf and 8" speakers present a real weight challenge. I'd either find the joist or use the scissor plant-hanging hardware.

I had to mount my speakers on the external face. I inset them to be able to create enough space to also inset the grill. I considered using calking but the grills would probably bend in trying to remove them. If I built the boxes, I probably would have mounted them on the back of the face plate. Are you using the speaker mounting kit or just attaching the speaker to the face?

For my other two speakers, I'm going to build boxes for outside(under the soffit) that will accommodate the factory mounting brackets. This will be easier to deal with the speaker grill, and I'm not as concerned with the size of the box outside. For inside, I wanted as low profile as possible.

 

[Everyone]

Since my boxes(1/2" mdf) were prefab-nailed(I didn't want screw heads showing) I just used the main, speaker opening to put 4 screws through the back of it into the ceiling. 3/4" mdf and 8" speakers present a real weight challenge. I'd either find the joist or use the scissor plant-hanging hardware.

I'll be screwing them into the joists. My drill doesn't fit into the cutout hole though, maybe I should just get a longer bit. The boxes are only glued together at the moment (except for the side with the cutout). I'm not worried about screws showing as I'll be wrapping them in fabric.

Are you using the speaker mounting kit or just attaching the speaker to the face?

They're in-ceiling speakers designed to be mounted in drywall. I just used the cut-out template they came with to cut a hole in the MDF for them to drop into. I painted the face and grill black. The speaker can be inserted after the box is mounted. I still need to drill a hole to stick the speaker wire through.

 

[Charles Collins]

I currently have four atmos speakers mounted on the ceiling using adjustable brackets. But I don’t think that the brackets are likely to hold up over the long term because they just aren’t made from high enough quality materials. So I will be using some vibration isolation brackets in place of the adjustable ones. And will build new enclosures with correct angles for the front baffles for our room. Anyway, based on my experience, be sure that you secure the baffles to the boxes as well as possible. One of my baffles started to come loose on one corner due to the weight, orientation, and vibrations of the driver, even though I thought that I had glued it thoroughly. But the new enclosures will have some additional mechanical fasteners in addition to the glue.

 

[Allsound]

I currently have four atmos speakers mounted on the ceiling using adjustable brackets. But I don’t think that the brackets are likely to hold up over the long term because they just aren’t made from high enough quality materials. So I will be using some vibration isolation brackets in place of the adjustable ones. And will build new enclosures with correct angles for the front baffles for our room. Anyway, based on my experience, be sure that you secure the baffles to the boxes as well as possible. One of my baffles started to come loose on one corner due to the weight, orientation, and vibrations of the driver, even though I thought that I had glued it thoroughly. But the new enclosures will have some additional mechanical fasteners in addition to the glue.

I thought about using silicone to attach them, but I will need to get them off art some point. I need like a putty type substance that they will stick to but also pull out of. Ideas?

 

[Charles Collins]

I thought about using silicone to attach them, but I will need to get them off art some point. I need like a putty type substance that they will stick to but also pull out of. Ideas?

If you are talking about fastening the baffles to the enclosures, I intend to use wood screws (and maybe also metal angle brackets in addition to titebond wood glue. I don’t want them to come off accidentally. I can access the inside of the enclosures through the driver holes by removing the drivers, so the baffles shouldn’t need to be removed. The drivers are heavy and could hurt someone below if they were to be hit. Fastening the entire assemblies to the ceiling will be with screws through the Sheetrock into wood backers.

 

[Allsound]

If you are talking about fastening the baffles to the enclosures, I intend to use wood screws (and maybe also metal angle brackets in addition to titebond wood glue. I don’t want them to come off accidentally. I can access the inside of the enclosures through the driver holes by removing the drivers, so the baffles shouldn’t need to be removed. The drivers are heavy and could hurt someone below if they were to be hit. Fastening the entire assemblies to the ceiling will be with screws through the Sheetrock into wood backers.

I was just talking about the speaker screens. My speakers are screwed into the ceiling boxes. I dremelled out a channel for the screens and want some security goop to hold beyond the very snug friction fit.

 

[Charles Collins]

I was just talking about the speaker screens. My speakers are screwed into the ceiling boxes. I dremelled out a channel for the screens and want some security goop to hold beyond the very snug friction fit.

With all of the vibrations that are happening with speakers, I would prefer a fastener. Perhaps a small white Z-clip similar to the clips designed to mount mirrors. Evenly space three of them around the circumference of the grill. And screw a white screw into the speaker box to hold each of them. Other than that, epoxy glue might work. But then removal of the grilles would not be feasible.