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Thanksgiving not withstanding,

What about stuffing?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanksgiving not withstanding,

What about stuffing?
Not sure about the stuffing.. I was thinking if I could use 75mm Rockwool Insulation ? Will this be possible? Also if so , is it actually reccomended? I don't want to use something which is not suitable.
 

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once you have location of the xo laid out,
IMO and experience reading around the farm , the roxul should be acousticallyadequate and as Erich might add a a generous handfull of polyfill gently but firmly around the horn

but


in my sound panel build, I always uses a sheer curtain material over either 703 and rosul for fiber control

in my various speaker builds needing stuffing I've always used the blue denim stuff, if only about 37+ mm, along with the poly , if needed

the denim doesn't have the "friability" , like asbestos, issues of the tiny fibers that make up roxul that might migrate into driver clearances, coils, etc. impacting, perhaps, performance and durability .

the denim can be stapled in, BAM!,


I used spray glue ONCE in my F15's . don't even think about it . . ..

I used 2" waffle foam in my 88 Special CC build.

HTH
 
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Discussion Starter #24
once you have location of the xo laid out,
IMO and experience reading around the farm , the roxul should be acousticallyadequate and as Erich might add a a generous handfull of polyfill gently but firmly around the horn

but


in my sound panel build, I always uses a sheer curtain material over either 703 and rosul for fiber control

in my various speaker builds needing stuffing I've always used the blue denim stuff, if only about 37+ mm, along with the poly , if needed

the denim doesn't have the "friability" , like asbestos, issues of the tiny fibers that make up roxul that might migrate into driver clearances, coils, etc. impacting, perhaps, performance and durability .

the denim can be stapled in, BAM!,
I used spray glue ONCE in my F15's . don't even think about it . . ..

I used 2" waffle foam in my 88 Special CC build.

HTH
Thank you so much for your help .. Really appreciate it. Rockwool is out the question then lol :)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Evening all, I know it's not much to get excited about lol but thought I'd add a couple more photos of the current situation.

I've just returned home from work and removed all clamps from box 2 and 3 which have been in clamps since yesterday morning so probably about 30 hrs in clamps.. I think this is all I can really do now untill I receive the front baffle and drivers so that I know exactly where to glue in the braces... Anyhow that will be it for a while.. Catch you guys hopefully in a few weeks once I get my delivery and thanks for all the support so far :)





One thing I did notice is when I used my band clamp on the second cabinet I placed it in the centre so it has thrown out the panel by 1 cm.. as can be seen in the pictures below.. This has really upset me as I wanted them to be exactly 18 inches to couple up with the front baffle. Do you guys think I can resolve this issue by sanding the front baffle or is that not reccomended and shall I use filler or shall I just re do the cabinet for this speaker again.. It's heart breaking as I spent so much time and effort into doing them.. :(

 

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well it's hard to see it, but 1 cm divided around the baffle is about too small (4mm to the left and right?) to put your knickers in a bunch
at this time

you'll have plenty to do so if that cab needs extra work , you can "just" plan to work around those extra steps while tending to the other 2

( maybe after checking for baffle fit, some tapered belt sander work just might do the trick . YMMV cause you have to look / live with it . .
you could start on the bracing configuration, at least thinking about, which I'm sure you already have . .

however, as a ported cab, thermonuclear resistant cab inertness should be kinda easy

the corners are some of the strongest points in the build !

it's the panels interior areas that you want to "hold fast"

the cab is not going to pressurize - it's ported , so

reducing the tendency to flex, of which there will almost none, is not rocket surgery

after looking at the dimensions of your build at DIYSG,

in the 2nd pic I used some 3" scraps of 3/4" ply and about 3 kreg screws and PL3 and pretty much ran down the center of each panel.

they ain't flexing. . or bulging apart from internal pressure
looks like i came just a bit over 3" from the corner junctions

be sure to include clearance for the ports wrt to stuffing

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Still not working, maybe just attach to the forum?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Hope it's ok now!

Oh and actually I just noticed it's not 1cm.. it's 1/16 of an inch! so I hope this won't be an issue.
 

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Hope it's ok now!

Oh and actually I just noticed it's not 1cm.. it's 1/16 of an inch! so I hope this won't be an issue.
Oh you could probably just use a brace inside to push that out while gluing the baffle and then remove the brace. Anything to spread it out to the right width just while gluing.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Oh you could probably just use a brace inside to push that out while gluing the baffle and then remove the brace. Anything to spread it out to the right width just while gluing.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Thanks Vince,

I just forced it out with a brace and it's now bang on 18" perfect.. Thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
As I have now sold my much loved XTZ cinema speakers I thought I may aswell have a little fun and see what the new HTM-12 will look like behind the cinema screen.. Here's a before and after shot lol ;)

The 1 thing I'm ever so slightly worried about is the waveguide not being on the same level as my ears.. It's going to be slightly above what the m6's were but I'm sitting approx 5m away from my screen and the tweeter will be exactly bang in the middle of my screen so might be ok... I would appreciate any suggestions if you think I should or could do anything to change it up slightly only if necessary as I don't really want to spoil anything in relation to the screen wall.

Here's my m6's :



Here's the cabs of the htm-12 speakers ;)





 

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HO! HO! HO! - way to go ..

the difference wrt change in ears vs. tweeter / horn centers height . .

how about a pic of the tweets for the existing compared to a shot of a 15" SEOS horn

could be revealing . .

those SEOS horns are some smart science, you may not have any issue due to the height change, if not extreme (whatever that is ? . .)

maybe you can get Erich / the designer to chime in . .

think of it this way . .

I replaced my F4Q4 surrounds with a pair of 88 Specials . . 4" horn vs. 15" horn

while it looks like bringing a knife to a gunfight , XT32 put the F4 xo at 40 and the 88 xo @ 100,

just part of the beauty of DIY . .

Tell Santa /Kris Kringle to hurry up with the kits already . . geeesshhhh!
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
HO! HO! HO! - way to go ..

the difference wrt change in ears vs. tweeter / horn centers height . .

how about a pic of the tweets for the existing compared to a shot of a 15" SEOS horn

could be revealing . .

those SEOS horns are some smart science, you may not have any issue due to the height change, if not extreme (whatever that is ? . .)

maybe you can get Erich / the designer to chime in . .

think of it this way . .

I replaced my F4Q4 surrounds with a pair of 88 Specials . . 4" horn vs. 15" horn

while it looks like bringing a knife to a gunfight , XT32 put the F4 xo at 40 and the 88 xo @ 100,

just part of the beauty of DIY . .

Tell Santa /Kris Kringle to hurry up with the kits already . . geeesshhhh!
Thanks for your help dude.. Much appreciated ;) .. I should be taking delivery between 1-4 Dec fingers crossed.. Shipito have already handed over to FedEx and I got a confirmation from them this morning so touch wood.. so far so good :)

Oh and as you asked.. here are the tweeters of my speakers I have just sold :(



 

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TY for the pics, always good to see other things about how designers are thinking.

put that next to the horns . . . JS

this is just a question I'm not able to or interested in digging up and answer, for,
nor am I expecting anyone else to either-

but for what we can read and learn here at AVS and other places,

the element / issue of speaker design and apparent small size that come to mind for that speaker "comb filtering" ,

but if it sounds good .. so be it

https://www.google.com/search?q=Car...hUX-GMKHTxpANIQ9QEILzAC#imgrc=aOUoeru38OkKwM:
 

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Discussion Starter #37
TY for the pics, always good to see other things about how designers are thinking.

put that next to the horns . . . JS

this is just a question I'm not able to or interested in digging up and answer, for,
nor am I expecting anyone else to either-

but for what we can read and learn here at AVS and other places,

the element / issue of speaker design and apparent small size that come to mind for that speaker "comb filtering" ,

but if it sounds good .. so be it

https://www.google.com/search?q=Car...hUX-GMKHTxpANIQ9QEILzAC#imgrc=aOUoeru38OkKwM:
sorry but you completely lost me lol.. I don't understand what your trying to say .. please elaborate a little so I can understand :) lol
 

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hopefully a layman's short version: common horizontal MTM can have comb filtering interaction between the different speakers if the spacing is un-optimized with regards to phase interaction for the output

I googled it myself and got < 400,000 hits and some good reading . .

HTH
 
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^ am exemplary example of meeting the DIY challenge

If thinking outside the box starts to gets to be problematic,

try flipping it over . . . (one of the can-do thinking mans options)
 
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